Which bolts do I need | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Which bolts do I need

mcelwajy

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Joined
August 8, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Monroe, OH
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Eddie Bauer



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The bolts you posted are cat pipe to catback

You can use some standard 1/2" bolts and nuts to reattach it if you have knocked the studs out. Standard grade bolts work just fine. They don't have to hold much load. I have 2 explorers that are put together like that. Those have worked for years just fine.
 






The stock Y-pipe to manifold bolts are 12mm dia x 50mm long, coarse thread, flange head hex bolts. Either class 9.8 or 10.9. You can get them from a dealer for about $5-6 each.

If you have a place to get fasteners from, you can probably get some similar bolts for cheaper, though you might need to get them with a washer since flange heads can be difficult to get. The flange helps a ton when reinstalling the Y-pipe and having to hold the bolts in position and push the bolt in while tightening it.

Your local NAPA might be able to fix you up if they are one of the larger stores that has hardware, but usually the larger bolt sizes like that aren't found at parts stores, unless they happen to have it in the HELP! section, but I haven't seen any there, otherwise I would have bought them instead of forking over $20 in new bolts from Ford.
 






ive even heard of getting stainless steel bolts so they dont rust up and put LOTS of anti size on them
 






Thanks fellas -


FYI - my local Ace Hardware has grade 10.9 and Stainless hardware and much cheaper than the dealer. Haven't performed the repair - but am I going to have issues replacing them? Are the old bolts pressed in or anything like that? Or should it be a knuckle busting, loosen the old bolts and put the new ones in type thing?
 






Will I need nuts or is it a fitting that the bolts go into?
 






So, I will be posting pics of this job. You would not believe the trouble I've run into. I've not seen so much rust in my life....have replacement parts by the weekend pics to follow. Thanks for the input all of you!
 






The flange on the factory manifold is threaded, so you are best off taking your time and using a can of penetrating oil on the threads, then whatever lube to soak them while doing your best to get them out in one piece without snapping.

It is possible to get them out, even with solid rust, if you clean the exposed threads, and put penetrating oil on them every day so it soaks down into the manifold flange and breaks up the rusty threads.

Just be sure to use a 3/8" extension and NOT a 1/2" one, otherwise chances are good you'll snap the head off before it even moves. A 3/8" will twist/flex more and keep too much force from twisting the head off. Wear gloves and you won't bust your knuckles when it finally loosens up.

It may take a few tries over several days, but keep at it and eventually they will pop. Even then, taking your time and letting the bolt cool after a few twists can prevent it snapping midway, along with threading it back in, then out, then in, and getting some penetrating oil/lube on it to keep it cool and help any dry threads it didn't get into from the top.

I don't know about stainless...I considered it, but it seemed like they weren't a good choice for the application due to strength concerns, and the bolt being in direct contact with the hot manifold. If you could get a good enough grade of stainless it'd work, but they only seem to make one grade for most bolts, and not in a flange head, either.
 






Well I picked up 10.8 flange heads at Ace, so once all of my parts show up I'll begin the install. In the mean time, I have been soaking those bolts with PB Blaster, and I plan to continue to. I have a pencil torch I may use to heat them up as well. Thanks for the input - its going to be rough getting these little turds out. The flange is completely rusted off - literally the bolt is in the manifold but the y-pipe is just chilling there. No worries though - I've dealt with stuck bolts.


Depending on how tight they are, I'm considering taking the manifolds off to drill them out...but I hope it doesn't come to that.
 






I tried this one, and got lazy, went to the local muffler shop, gave them 40 bucks and it was done in under a hour.
 






Nexis - like that Idea :D

But I'm too cheap to pay someone else 40 bucks - and the closest shop is Meineke and that won't fly for them...at least areound here.
 






Nexis - like that Idea :D

But I'm too cheap to pay someone else 40 bucks - and the closest shop is Meineke and that won't fly for them...at least areound here.

Ya and it's good too learn to do it yourself too. I have more money in tools than it would have been too pay someone on a couple of jobs but it was worth it
 






Ya and it's good too learn to do it yourself too. I have more money in tools than it would have been too pay someone on a couple of jobs but it was worth it

As do I - UPS guy dropped off exhaust parts while I was in the garage and was amazed I knew how to do exhaust. I just kinda stared at him dumbfounded - I never really realized that the skills we all have with these (or any) trucks/cars is a dying thing

Kudos to all of us who do the work ourselves!
 






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