Whine noise while accelerating/cruising

[storlied]

$300? Is it me or does that sound a lil spendy? I'm pretty sure I've seen them around for $150 or so??.. Could be wrong though..

 

[bluestream1]

This is what I was afraid of. I found a rear end at a local junk yard with 60k miles on it for $300. Might as well pick that up and install it eh?

Axels are $200-$250 in my area for a good one. $300 is fine ,if its in good shape. I would buy it and get it changed now before yours breaks and leaves you at the road side. Used axel is your best bet.

 

[Afboy143]

Axels are $200-$250 in my area for a good one. $300 is fine ,if its in good shape. I would buy it and get it changed now before yours breaks and leaves you at the road side. Used axel is your best bet.

Thanks guys. Yeah, I priced a few places and $300 seemed to be the best round figure. I haven't whipped out the old Haynes manual yet, but is changing the rear diff hard? What else do I need besides some new fluid and RTV sealant? Never changed one, but I have flushed one before

 

[CrashBandit]

I got my Explorer over a year ago, and noticed it "whines" all the time. My battery guage needle will sway back and forth in rhythm with the whine. If I turn my CD player off, the sound dissapates a little..It is worse when I'm idling. Only noise I can compare it to is a "supercharger whine". Any ideas?

 

[Afboy143]

I got my Explorer over a year ago, and noticed it "whines" all the time. My battery guage needle will sway back and forth in rhythm with the whine. If I turn my CD player off, the sound dissapates a little..It is worse when I'm idling. Only noise I can compare it to is a "supercharger whine". Any ideas?

This whine sounds like you have engine noise. Is the whine in the speakers? What if you turn the radio off, do you hear the whine? Sounds like a bad ground somewhere and engine noise is getting into the speakers. This is way different than a rear differential whine.

 

[ash98fordexp]

the whine may be in the ground or could be a alternator going bad just a few ideas to look at

 

[my pos mounty]

Thanks guys. Yeah, I priced a few places and $300 seemed to be the best round figure. I haven't whipped out the old Haynes manual yet, but is changing the rear diff hard? What else do I need besides some new fluid and RTV sealant? Never changed one, but I have flushed one before

Check this out, it might help
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2488806#post2488806

 

[n54324400]

bump....i have this same problem, i was told it was the torque converter

 

[Afboy143]

I was told it's the rear end gears. The rear end needs to be placed or redone.

Sound correct all?

 

[my pos mounty]

I was told it's the rear end gears. The rear end needs to be placed or redone.

Sound correct all?

By your description below, your noise sounds like it is the pinion gear bearings.

About your junkyard search, try Allens Used Auto Parts (1-866-626-6121), or Plant City Auto Salvage (1-800-330-4871). They seem to be the most reasonable near you (around $150 for the whole rear axle assembly)

 

[Afboy143]

By your description below, your noise sounds like it is the pinion gear bearings.

About your junkyard search, try Allens Used Auto Parts (1-866-626-6121), or Plant City Auto Salvage (1-800-330-4871). They seem to be the most reasonable near you (around $150 for the whole rear axle assembly)

Wow thanks man!

and try getting the lowest miles available correct? Anything else I will need? I should also flush the fluid before reinstalling the new one, yes?

 

[my pos mounty]

Wow thanks man!

and try getting the lowest miles available correct? Anything else I will need? I should also flush the fluid before reinstalling the new one, yes?

Lowest mileage, yes.

I would, at an absolute minimum:

When you pick it up from the junkyard, grab the driveshaft flange and twist it. There should be very little play rotationally and zero play up/down and in/out. If so, give it back to them.

Drain out the fluid that is in the assembly, god knows if water got in there. Pay very close attention to what that old diff oil can tell you. If it has a slight gold or silver sheen to the oil, it is an indication that there is a bearing in the axle assembly that is failing. If you see that, put it back together and return it to the junkyard and tell them why you are returning it. Pretty damn sure they would have no issue taking it back and giving you another once you describe what you saw. Also, once you have it drained, swipe around inside the fluid that does not drain and feel for any grit or metal particles, if you find any, save the piece and bring the assembly back. Show the Junkyard what you found.
Take the axle shafts out and look at where the axle bearing rides. Shiny part in the pic below:

If you can feel any imperfections with your fingernail, take your "old" one apart and check your existing one. If both are "pooched" get an "axle saver" bearing set and replace the axle bearing with that. It is an integrated seal/bearing that rides in a different area of the axle. Either way, install the better of the two axles.
If your axle shaft checks out OK, check the axle bearings that are pressed into the axle housing. The bearings in the cage should be shiny with no imperfections, also very little side-to-side movement. If the bearing fails any of those checks, replace the axle bearing.
(check this thread: Replacing axle bearings)
Axle seals are a must, replace both sides. On the inside of the seal, there is a little groove with a spring in it. To keep that spring in there when driving the seal into place, fill the groove with petroleum jelly (vaseline). It won't hurt anything.
New, pretty one in the pic:

ALWAYS, every single time that you remove the cross-pin keeper bolt, get a new one. Do not re-use it, ever. They do break, and are not very fun to get out after it does. It is circled in red below:

Next would be to give those spider gears a look. If they have alot of slop, replace them too.

Once this is all done, I cleaned out the gray goop that sticks on the inside of the assembly with brake cleaner, elbow grease and plenty of rags. Once it is all cleaned that way, put it back together and add the oil. Make sure everything gets a good coating of oil too since the brake cleaner will remove all of it.

 

[Afboy143]

Wow this is good stuff! I saw this earlier at work but couldnt post a reply

I wish I wasn't so lost when it came to this stuff! Even through your write up was amazing, is there another route I could go? I see someone above posted a kit to install. What is this kit called exactly and what type of shop would best be served to install it?

Lowest mileage, yes.

I would, at an absolute minimum:

When you pick it up from the junkyard, grab the driveshaft flange and twist it. There should be very little play rotationally and zero play up/down and in/out. If so, give it back to them.

Drain out the fluid that is in the assembly, god knows if water got in there. Pay very close attention to what that old diff oil can tell you. If it has a slight gold or silver sheen to the oil, it is an indication that there is a bearing in the axle assembly that is failing. If you see that, put it back together and return it to the junkyard and tell them why you are returning it. Pretty damn sure they would have no issue taking it back and giving you another once you describe what you saw. Also, once you have it drained, swipe around inside the fluid that does not drain and feel for any grit or metal particles, if you find any, save the piece and bring the assembly back. Show the Junkyard what you found.
Take the axle shafts out and look at where the axle bearing rides. Shiny part in the pic below:

If you can feel any imperfections with your fingernail, take your "old" one apart and check your existing one. If both are "pooched" get an "axle saver" bearing set and replace the axle bearing with that. It is an integrated seal/bearing that rides in a different area of the axle. Either way, install the better of the two axles.
If your axle shaft checks out OK, check the axle bearings that are pressed into the axle housing. The bearings in the cage should be shiny with no imperfections, also very little side-to-side movement. If the bearing fails any of those checks, replace the axle bearing.
(check this thread: Replacing axle bearings)
Axle seals are a must, replace both sides. On the inside of the seal, there is a little groove with a spring in it. To keep that spring in there when driving the seal into place, fill the groove with petroleum jelly (vaseline). It won't hurt anything.
New, pretty one in the pic:

ALWAYS, every single time that you remove the cross-pin keeper bolt, get a new one. Do not re-use it, ever. They do break, and are not very fun to get out after it does. It is circled in red below:

Next would be to give those spider gears a look. If they have alot of slop, replace them too.

Once this is all done, I cleaned out the gray goop that sticks on the inside of the assembly with brake cleaner, elbow grease and plenty of rags. Once it is all cleaned that way, put it back together and add the oil. Make sure everything gets a good coating of oil too since the brake cleaner will remove all of it.

 

[my pos mounty]

As already covered earlier in the thread, a driveline shop would be best to do this work.
You can get the parts through Ericautopart with a forum discount (cost about 70 bucks). If you find a good driveline shop it might cost you 3 to 4 hundred (my wild stab-in-the-dark-guess).
Your best bet might be to have yours rebuilt, but do it BEFORE there is damage done to your axle housing. If that happens, all bets are off and you will have to replace the entire assembly anyway.

When I replaced my whole axle assembly, I chose to do so because:
#1) My truck had over 200,000 miles
#2) I do not expect my truck to last for much more than a year, maybe 2
#3) I went through the replacement thoroughly and found that everything checked out very nicely

Even so, all of that does not guarantee that the pinion gear isn't going to die on me, but <knocks on wood> it has shown no sign of that.

 

[Afboy143]

Sorry for sounding like such a noob and asking repetitive questions, but stuff like this just scares me lol

I am part of a local forum for my area so I will ask around for a good driveline shop to stop by. I've posted various replies in the beginning of this thread, but ericautopart hasn't replied.

What's the chances of having axle housing damage and what's the best way to check? I've been running with the whine for a while now so I wouldn't be suprised if I did have damage. I've got 130k on my truck

 

[my pos mounty]

Theres really no way to really "check" it without disassembly.
Try clicking here and send Ericautopart a PM. He may not be watching this actual thread.

 

[ohnonotagain]

Well I called a few places. They said the rear end needs to be rebuilt and Im better off getting a used rear end off another truck and putting it in ess. since my truck has 125k miles and isnt worth a lot. Looks like Im going to drive it until my rear end blows up-- then replace. WOOHOO

I just did this in July with my 2004. Twice :faint and now it's whining again. I really don't think my luck is so bad that 3 rear diffs are bad :lol It's driving me crazy and I really don't think it needs to be replaced again, or at least I'm hoping.

Does anyone have any ideas why the rear is still whining on acceleration? As soon as I take my foot off the gas, it stops. And it only happens from 35-60mph.

 

[my pos mounty]

I just did this in July with my 2004. Twice :faint and now it's whining again. I really don't think my luck is so bad that 3 rear diffs are bad :lol It's driving me crazy and I really don't think it needs to be replaced again, or at least I'm hoping.

Does anyone have any ideas why the rear is still whining on acceleration? As soon as I take my foot off the gas, it stops. And it only happens from 35-60mph.

Your generation (Third) has a very different design of the diff.
The third gen diffs are well known for that failure. Its either the carrier bearings or the pinion bearings.
The company that Ericautopart works for sells rebuilt differentials with much better bearings installed. If you want to silence that whine and will keep your truck for some time, it would be well worth replacing it, or getting it rebuilt.
I would never go the junkyard route with a third gen diff. It isn't worth the gamble.
PM him for pricing. If you decide to have your existing one rebuilt, I suggest getting the rebuild parts from him.

 

[Afboy143]

Hey guys,

Reviving from the dead. Still running the whining rear end and want to try to replace it. I've PM'ed Eric Auto Sport many times to no avail. I am going to look elsewhere. What exactly is this kit called?

 

[Alexgrant23]

Hey guys, I'm bringing this thread back from the dead as I'm having a similar problem. The noise from mine is coming from the front and having just replaced my 2nd diff and a transfer case to try and solve it the noise is still there. The rear diff was making a noise but I replaced the oil and seal and there's nothing there anymore. Does anyone have any ideas?