2000StreetRod
Moderator Emeritus
- Joined
- May 26, 2009
- Messages
- 10,597
- Reaction score
- 339
- City, State
- Greenville, SC
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
For some time now I've been advising others on this forum to change their fuel filter. Well, I finally decided to take my own advice! I have 151,000 miles on my Sport but have only driven it about 1,000 miles since I bought it this May. I bought it from a tow truck driver who impounded it for towing fees he charged when it was abandoned on the freeway. Not knowing anything about the vehicle's history, I assumed the worst regarding past regular maintenance. Since replacing my stock air filter with a racing cone filter I have been experiencing cold starting and post start/prewarm idling problems which I attributed to a leaner mixture due to increased air flow. I cleaned and eventually replaced the IAC valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body and reset the PCM multiple times. None of these actions corrected the problem.
My first step in replacing the fuel filter was to raise and then jack stand the left front of the vehicle. I did this to make sure fuel did not siphon out of the tank. Also, I don't like working under a vehicle and the more clearance the better. I placed an oil drain pan directly below the filter to catch any leaking fuel and made sure my drop light was not close enough to ignite any splashes. The safety clips were easily removed and I used a 3/8 inch release tool for the fuel connections. When I tilted the old filter to drain it I noticed that fuel did not flow easily. I installed the new filter making sure the arrow pointed toward the engine, lowered the vehicle and turned on the ignition to check for leaks. Since there were none I then started the engine to check further. On the previous morning the low was 35 degrees and the engine died several times after starting even though I tried to prevent it by stepping on the accelerator. On this morning the low was 32 degrees and the engine started, slowed but recovered on its own and then idled smoothly. I never had to step on the accelerator.
I decided to cut open the old filter and examine it. The photo below shows the post hack saw exercise.
When the hack saw initially cut thru the outer container, a rusty brown residue began leaking out.
The photo below is a close up of the filter element.
You can see the accumulated crud in the pleats.
I can't explain why my engine had enough fuel flow to pull 175 rwhp on the dynomometer and rev easily to 6,000 rpm but not enough to start from cold and idle properly. Nor can I explain why my engine idle increased from a too low 550 rpm to at least 700 after changing the filter. But I'm not one who argues with success!
After changing the filter I added two bottles of Techron fuel injector cleaner to the nearly full fuel tank. I used to own Volvos and Techron was the only fuel injector cleaner that Volvo endorsed. Some injector cleaners do a good job on the injectors but also cause carbon deposits on the intake valves. The fluffy deposits absorb fuel and cause rough idle and hesitation, especially in cold weather.
If you haven't changed your fuel filter in the last 30,000 miles I suggest that you do. I also suggest that you avoid adding fuel injector cleaner if your filter is due for a change. I suspect that a high percentage of early fuel pump failures are due to not changing the fuel filter at the suggested interval.
My first step in replacing the fuel filter was to raise and then jack stand the left front of the vehicle. I did this to make sure fuel did not siphon out of the tank. Also, I don't like working under a vehicle and the more clearance the better. I placed an oil drain pan directly below the filter to catch any leaking fuel and made sure my drop light was not close enough to ignite any splashes. The safety clips were easily removed and I used a 3/8 inch release tool for the fuel connections. When I tilted the old filter to drain it I noticed that fuel did not flow easily. I installed the new filter making sure the arrow pointed toward the engine, lowered the vehicle and turned on the ignition to check for leaks. Since there were none I then started the engine to check further. On the previous morning the low was 35 degrees and the engine died several times after starting even though I tried to prevent it by stepping on the accelerator. On this morning the low was 32 degrees and the engine started, slowed but recovered on its own and then idled smoothly. I never had to step on the accelerator.
I decided to cut open the old filter and examine it. The photo below shows the post hack saw exercise.
When the hack saw initially cut thru the outer container, a rusty brown residue began leaking out.
The photo below is a close up of the filter element.
You can see the accumulated crud in the pleats.
I can't explain why my engine had enough fuel flow to pull 175 rwhp on the dynomometer and rev easily to 6,000 rpm but not enough to start from cold and idle properly. Nor can I explain why my engine idle increased from a too low 550 rpm to at least 700 after changing the filter. But I'm not one who argues with success!
After changing the filter I added two bottles of Techron fuel injector cleaner to the nearly full fuel tank. I used to own Volvos and Techron was the only fuel injector cleaner that Volvo endorsed. Some injector cleaners do a good job on the injectors but also cause carbon deposits on the intake valves. The fluffy deposits absorb fuel and cause rough idle and hesitation, especially in cold weather.
If you haven't changed your fuel filter in the last 30,000 miles I suggest that you do. I also suggest that you avoid adding fuel injector cleaner if your filter is due for a change. I suspect that a high percentage of early fuel pump failures are due to not changing the fuel filter at the suggested interval.
