koda2000
Explorer Addict
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- September 2, 2011
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I don't understand what the pliers tool can do that the small round plastic 5/16 line disconnect tool can't (note: the previously suggested 3/8 plastic tool is too BIG, so don't use that one!). I just changed my fuel filter 10 minutes ago on my '99 XLT for the second time since I've owned it and the plastic AC/fuel line disconnect tools worked great once again, it took less than 5 minutes to get both sides off. You essentially have to press it in all the way, spin it around 360 degrees a few times to loosen things up and then hold the filter with one hand/yank on the fuel line with the other and it will come loose.
You could also spray some WD40 in there beforehand to make the job even easier (personally, I didn't have to because I rust proof the truck every year and there was plenty of lube in there already). Having the front of the truck up on ramps is all the space you'll need to crawl in there... even if you're a big guy, trust me.
(This is the kit I have. The 5/16 tool (gray color) is the one to use. You may have to "trim" the long portion a bit to fit inside some aftermarket filters on your second filter change, as I had to do today. It was too long and wouldn't slide in there, but was the correct length with an original Motorcraft filter on the first change. Go figure.)
That said, the first time I changed my fuel filter at 100,000 km (60,000 miles), there was an incredible amount of gunk that came out of it. It was deep black in color (almost like burnt oil) and smelled like fuel (no surprise there, lol). After the fuel filter change, my idle RPM's dropped significantly and the truck ran smoother. I also noticed a better fuel economy than before, so I like to think the fuel filter pays for itself in the long run with fuel savings alone, not to mention extending your fuel pump life... especially because the filter is under $10 to begin with!
Today, I changed it for the second time. Like before, there was no issues getting it off the truck with the plastic disc-like disconnect tool (I have a kit made by "Powerbuilt" that I bought for like $5 some 10 years ago - see image above). This time around, at approx. 90,000 miles (so roughly 30,000 miles since the last filter change), the fuel that came out of the old filter was dark/rusty brown, but a lot better & clearer than it was at double the mileage last time I changed it. Once again, the truck seems to run a little quieter and smoother than it did before.
In case anyone's wondering, I never put cheap gas into my Explorer... it runs on 87 octane Ultramar fuel consistently and never sees any other service stations. Occasionally, it will get the 92 octane fuel to clean the fuel system a bit, approximately once a year. An injector cleaner (either STP or Penzoil) is added every 6 months or so to keep the injectors happy, but that's about all. I therefore attribute the black gunk I saw on the first replacement and the brownish/dark particles in the fuel on the second to normal wear & tear of the fuel system. Bottom line is, the fuel filter is not there for the lifetime of the vehicle... unless Ford were to believe that the "lifetime" of the truck is somewhere at around 75,000 miles! (at which point things would be getting pretty clogged-up in there, based on what I saw pouring out of my old fuel filters).
i agree with most of what you're saying, with a few exceptions. STP Fuel Cleaner is crap (Chevron Techron has been tested as the best) and you comments about not using "cheap fuel". all gasolines come from the same base stock and storage tanks, with the exception of Amoco premium, which is considered non-fungible (it means nothing can be substituted for it). the only thing that separates one brand of gasoline from another is a small squirt of their proprietary chemical (and i mean a small squirt) which is added to the fuel when the delivery truck is loaded. the only difference in the quality between one brand and another is the condition of the tanks at the station where you buy it. i purchase all my fuel at my local Kroger, where i pay 20 cents a gallon less than i would pay at the next cheapest station where i live. using higher octane fuel than what your vehicle needs is a complete waste of money. the only difference between regular and premium is an stabilizer additive, put in premium, to prevent detonation in higher compression engines. how do i know all this? because i worked for a company that owned/operated fuel terminals (and pretty much owned the Colonial Pipeline) for 10 years. not trying to argue, just educate.
