Will a 125v switch be a very bad idea?

[Kjhadfield]

Alright, to summarize…I put a strip of led lights under my hood and put a toggle switch as a temp thing. Looked into local options for a push type switch with not much luck so I put it off. My boss finds a switch at lowes, basically hood is closed led off and vise versus. But the switch says 3/4 amp and 125 volts.

I would of thought no but a builder friend says it will work, I just don't want to blindly believe it considering his profession and my lack of knowledge.

Thanks for any guidance

 

[mrbrett]

Do they have eBay in FL?

 

[2000StreetRod]

max ratings

The switch is rated for a maximum current flow of .75 amps at 125 volts. As long as the current is less than .75 amps and the voltage is less than 125 volts the switch operation will be reliable. You don't have to worry about exceeding the voltage rating. Just make sure the strip of LEDs draws less than .75 amps.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Do they have eBay in FL?

eBay would be an online source and as I mentioned, I was looking for local options! I also mentioned my lack of knowledge, which is why I also don't order online. It would be different if I knew exactly what I wanted.

But thank you sir

 

[Kjhadfield]

The switch is rated for a maximum current flow of .75 amps at 125 volts. As long as the current is less than .75 amps and the voltage is less than 125 volts the switch operation will be reliable. You don't have to worry about exceeding the voltage rating. Just make sure the strip of LEDs draws less than .75 amps.

This is the led strip Im using https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...lexible-light-strip/1466/#/tab/Specifications

I didn't see mentioned the amps. It does say 1.1 watts and operating range of 9-14.8vdc. On the spec sheet it does mention current draw of 89 mA then the 1.1 watts in parentheses

 

[Kjhadfield]

Would this calculator work in this instance? http://www.supercircuits.com/resources/tools/volts-watts-amps-converter

I plugged in 12 volts and 1.1 watts =0.091 amps

I have the LEDs wired to a tap a fuse (I think 3 amp, lowest I could find). In case that would change your thoughts.

So if all that is correct, I would be able to use this switch drawing only .091 of the available .75? I'd like a little understanding of why one would or wouldn't use this switch (any pro or con) Not that I think there will be advantages but more interested in the negatives
Thank you…sincerely

 

[Gadget X]

Should be no negative effects. By the way, I'm an electrician, and I deal with both AC and DC loads. You can use an AC switch with DC, but not the other way around. So long as you are under the max amp rating of the switch, you're good!

 

[sr139fox]

Mount a mercury switch on the hood. When up the mercury will make contact. If you have a concern on amp draw, use a light or horn relay.
Dave p.

 

[Kjhadfield]

If that calculation is correct, the amp draw would be .091. i thought of the Mercury switch before but decided against it because of concerns of parking on hills, my driveway is a hill

Thanks for the thought thou

 

[rb142]

There is no problem with the current or voltage ratings. The problem will be with corrosion. It sounds like this is an indoor rated switch that you have mounted under the hood. If so, it probably won't last long before it corrodes up badly and starts to fail. BTW, your 3 amp fuse won't do anything, because the 0.75 amp switch will burn out before the fuse blows (It might help if you somehow got a direct short.)

I would try to find a switch that is better weather-sealed. Many vehicles have that very type of switch to turn on an underhood light when the hood is raised. That would be ideal. You could probably find one at any auto parts store.

 

[jmmorgan82]

Do a search for a "hood pin switch".

Edit, This would work. Whenever the hood is closed, the switch is compressed, breaking ground and killing the circuit. Whenever you pop the hood, it re-completes the circuit.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Do a search for a "hood pin switch".

Edit, This would work. Whenever the hood is closed, the switch is compressed, breaking ground and killing the circuit. Whenever you pop the hood, it re-completes the circuit.

Everytime I tried at a auto store, they either didn't know exactly what I was trying to do or didn't know the proper name cause every time on the computer nothing would show. But the plunger type switch is what I wanted for the complete finished install. The 125v switch is also a plunger. But that switch you linked to is exactly what I want, I like the fact it's rubber rather than plastic. The 1 terminal threw me off though, the comments mention that's for the ground while others say the switch mounted on metal is the ground? At 1st I would think the switch grounds when mounted to the frame and the terminal is for the power from the LEDs?

I should of asked the forum when I first started this little project on what kind of switch, which was the main reason for not ordering online. I'm almost confident enough to make the purchase, once I know which wire goes to the terminal. Can anyone tell me if I should try and find a smaller fuse than 3 amp? And I installed with a add a circuit rather than tap a fuse…if that makes any difference

Thanks for all the feedback…truly

 

[Kjhadfield]

Now I want to make sure I wired everything up properly. The power wire for LEDs go to 1 of the terminals on the current toggle switch. The ground for LEDs go to ground on frame. Then I have the add a circuit going to the 2nd terminal on the toggle switch. Was this the proper way? It's also s 2 amp fuse I used not 3. Still wondering what's the best fuse option or the lowest I can go or should go. Also if I got the switch linked above with only 1 terminal, how would I have to change up my wiring? Is a relay needed?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Take a look at this schematic diagram:

 

[Kjhadfield]

I'm guessing in that diagram the zigzag lines are in line fuse? And the switch receives power from LEDs and exits to a ground, so 2 terminals?

That switch in the link above only has 1 terminal to connect a wire to, how would that work? I really like that the whole top half has a rubber boot. Instead of the in line fuse, I couldn't use/keep my add a circuit?

 

[bdmaash]

fuse is meant to protect circuits against high current draw/short circuit, so it should be placed as close to the power source (where ever you have tapped 12V from)

then a switch , load, ground

in the picture above, it shows battery +, switch, resistor, led, battery ground (other side of battery)

in your situation - the resistor and LED are integrated not separated as shown in the picture.
2A/3A/5A fuse will work, they only blow when there is a problem (more often than not a short)

edit: the switch in the picture has 2 terminals one side is connected to the battery, and the other side is to the resistor

 

[BrooklynBay]

In the diagram above, the switch is on the positive side of the battery between the battery, and the resistor. In your situation, the pin switch is grounded to the body of the vehicle, and the LED always has a positive voltage connection. The switch completes the circuit with a ground connection.