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Will Be Blown Again!


Blown

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I should have never sold mine but was excited to see one available today on Ebay. I just pulled the trigger on a used Kenne Bell 2.2l Blower which will bolt-up to the 5.0 manifold. I am not sure yet whether to shorten the snout or run it off another belt/crank pulley. How to set it up will become evident when I get it. I have a tuner, can tune it, though I need larger injectors. I am only planning on 6lbs of boost with all else stock for now..........

Blower porn:






Rig: I hope it fits under the Ranger dome hood.
 
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CDW6212R

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I like it, the KB, the Ranger hood, the Limited wheels etc. Is that 2.1 from a F150 kit set of parts, the inlet looks like a truck?

I gather the choices of snout lengths is very limited for the old KB's.
 
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Blown

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I am way ahead of myself with the build with this purchase, but had to get it when it came up! I hope to get to a basic install in the spring on the old engine and start building a 306 maybe a 349.

Yes, the incomplete kit is for an F150/Bronco. It appears I can unbolt the adapter to the F150/Bronco two bladed throttle body and have a four bolt flange to plumb it. The snout bracket bolts to the water pump so should fit. It also has three different size pulleys. I am pretty excited so maybe I will get to it sooner.

Your blower has no snout and this one is way too long. That my biggest concern.
 
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CDW6212R

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The SN95 KB kit is the closest fitting set of parts to work on the 302 Explorer. The snout length and support bracket there at the front are the biggest issue versus adapting to any other 302. The 94/95 Mustangs have a pulley location(front to back) that almost matches the Explorer, it's around a 1/4" difference. One member installed an SN95 kit onto his Explorer, and later sold it and the truck.

The other kits are also made for the blower to output upward, to a plenum that leads to a GT40 intake. You will be close up top if you use that plenum to the lower intake. You won't be able to use those pulleys that came with it, those are for a 302 with older accessories, the Fox Mustangs etc. The Explorer pulley is built onto the balancer, so you have to work with that arrangement.
 




Blown

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Different length snouts:
314mm, 270mm, 185mm, and 141mm.

This one will have e
nough to cut down. I'd like to run it off the accessory belt like I had set-up before......all on one belt. Ya, I doubt I can use the crank pulley that comes with this kit.
 
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Blown

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Yes, finally got my Tweecer RT tuner attached and working. The first adjustments will come after I datalog some time driving around. That will tell me when she is shifting. I will likely make some changes to shift pressure, shift points, and advance timing a couple degrees.

Next, I will make a tune for 6lbs of boost and have it ready for the blower install. The two biggest items to take care of is adding fuel and cutting timing for boost.

This is your 2000 5.0 Explorer timing and fuel table as pictured in Tweecer software:



 
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Blown

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Momma, I'm Tweecing again!

I got a few things worked-out with the transmission. I firmed-up shifts into second and third by increasing line pressure at high rpm and load. I changed the shift points by increasing the speed in MPH at which the computer shifts the trans. I decreased the MPH for downshifts to 1st and second. Finally I increased the RPM at which shifts are commanded at WOT. These changes make it hit 2nd and 3rd harder, later in rpm, and down shift earlier.

As an Example, Here is the 1-2 Shift Function. The dashed line represents the stock shift line.



I will put up a couple more examples of timing and fuel changes when I get to it.
 
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CDW6212R

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I love to hear the progress. Your images aren't showing up yet, just an
 




WhiteLX

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images show for me.

I'd like to use my quarterhorse and Binary Editor for my 98 explorer 5.0, but it seems the strategy isn't available for free and I'd have to upgrade to a newer version of BE.
 




Blown

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images show for me.

I'd like to use my quarterhorse and Binary Editor for my 98 explorer 5.0, but it seems the strategy isn't available for free and I'd have to upgrade to a newer version of BE.
Tweecer has these strategies available for free or I guess you support Mike with a purchase. The software to tune and datalog is free. The catch code/calibration code on mine is a EQE3 utilizing the REAC4 Strategy. You can input model and year or better yet, your computer catch code and see if they support the strategy it utilizes. Here: The TwEECer -- Ford EEC user programmable module

I have seen used Tweecer RT's for as low as $150. Thing is you don't get direct support unless you purchase from Tweecer. There is a support group at Yahoo where you can get questions answered and the owner does answer all questions there, plus you can search postings.
 




Blown

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Some History, Old Boosted rigs:

This a 1990 with 302. I did a MAF conversion and learned to tune. I started with a Powerdyne kit and later got a Kenne Bell 2.2l Blowzilla kit:


The 90 Bronc morphed into a rock crawler one night:



Next was a 1993 F150 351W. I converted it to MAF and I moved the Kenne Bell to it:



I blew a 2000 Ranger 4.0 SOHC using the Banshee Kit:

 




Blown

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Uhhhg! IMHO There is more than a bit to be had by tuning the Transmission in a 5.0 X. Just playing around and found the upshift shift points to be low, pressure for shifts to be mellow, and down shift to be late! Ford trying to save gas I suppose.

It's no 5.0 Mustang spinner but it's short shifted at lower RPM/MPH grocery getter line pressures......It does get better with a tune. It would be interesting to dyno a 91 octane engine tune/ transmission tune with a stock one.............................I got my rig hitting second later, harder and faster and dropping back to 1st earlier, harder, and faster!
It's set to do this only when I hold the skinny pedal down to the metal, full tilt!!!!!
 
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WhiteLX

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That's my main goal for tuning right now, fix the transmission tuning. It's really frustrating to pull away slowly then give it some throttle only to have the trans shift into 2nd as throttle increases. Gives for a real nice bog/lug. 1-2 shift feels nice, but I can hardly feel the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts.
 




boominXplorer

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Tuning won't get you but so happy with the trans, trust me. Baumann Engineering is who to go to for 4r70 valve body parts. My truck will chip 3rd when it's damp out (combination of built trans and sct tune). I went with stage 2 and 3 valve body parts and it's a hair harsh for me. Those settings wouldn't be as harsh for you since your not on 4.88s and 35s. My truck also shifts around 5800 rpm wot.
 




CDW6212R

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Uhhhg! IMHO There is more than a bit to be had by tuning the Transmission in a 5.0 X. Just playing around and found the upshift shift points to be low, pressure for shifts to be mellow, and down shift to be late! Ford trying to save gas I suppose.

It's no 5.0 Mustang spinner but it's short shifted at lower RPM/MPH grocery getter line pressures......
That's great for us to be able to adjust those things some. My two 302 trucks shift at close to 4k with my normal driving, I have to baby it to have it shift at 3k or less. Mine also shift at 5k WOT, always have, while my Lincoln AOD's are closer to 4k WOT stock, and cranking the TV cable gets it near 4500.

I've got a Sonnax special PR valve to put in when I get time, it's a more variable circuit that the stock parts, light pressure at light throttle, and increasing as throttle goes up. We'll see if that's worth it, given $65 from Summit. I expect the trans tuning to be the last step after VB modifications, preferably on a rebuilt trans. The 4R and the 4WD TC are near the first on my list to do, after this truck is a spare again.
 




CDW6212R

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Tuning won't get you but so happy with the trans, trust me. Baumann Engineering is who to go to for 4r70 valve body parts. My truck will chip 3rd when it's damp out (combination of built trans and sct tune). I went with stage 2 and 3 valve body parts and it's a hair harsh for me. Those settings wouldn't be as harsh for you since your not on 4.88s and 35s.
Cool, is that in 4WD in your Ranger, or a 2WD setting? I wrecked my first LSC a couple of months after a VB kit in the AOD, unfortunately the road was just a bit damp.
 




boominXplorer

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Cool, is that in 4WD in your Ranger, or a 2WD setting? I wrecked my first LSC a couple of months after a VB kit in the AOD, unfortunately the road was just a bit damp.
2wd of course. With the locker in the rear I have to watch goosing it on damp onramps, the ass end will come out real quick. On a damp road as long as I'm going slow enough to downshift into first gear it will instantly smoke the tires to the top of 2nd gear till it catches traction 100 yards down the road.
 




CDW6212R

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I'm hoping the TOD BW4406 will somewhat smoothly make use of four tires for traction, given big power. It's no big deal in stock form, you almost don't notice it's there. The AWD is very smooth, but it has limits no one has discovered, and I don't want to.
 




Blown

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Tuning won't get you but so happy with the trans, trust me. Baumann Engineering is who to go to for 4r70 valve body parts. My truck will chip 3rd when it's damp out (combination of built trans and sct tune). I went with stage 2 and 3 valve body parts and it's a hair harsh for me. Those settings wouldn't be as harsh for you since your not on 4.88s and 35s. My truck also shifts around 5800 rpm wot.
I felt that! Dude I tuned an E4OD Punisher trans to work in my F150 with blown 351W! The first WOT 1-2 shift,......Damn tranny hit so hard, it was the loudest bamn!!! and lack of broken parts I ever heard!

I'm not looking for that in my daily driver work truck and camper.
 


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Blown

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This is a useful tool to look at shift points:Gear Ratios, RPM and Tire Diameter to MPH with Shift Points Calculator

My output shifting at 5,000 rpm.


It's useful to double check your shift points for tuning input. I data logged accurate speed and rpm to tune shift points. The stock tach is often inaccurate, it is on this X and the Speedometer was off. You need good data to make tuning changes.

You got to keep in mind is that the shift occurs after it is commanded and is mechanical, so there is a delay. Getting an 5,000 rpm shift may mean commanding it at 4,600 or 40MPH shift at 37................................


I
 
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