Will Be Blown Again! | Page 24 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Will Be Blown Again!

I have to say I think you guys respect my opinion I don't like where that nozzle is It really needs to be on the back of the intake elbow directly behind the blower inlet
I had to move mine
I hope this location is good but I doubt it
The difference in performance is very noticeable

OK, I got ya, no disrespect and I took the easy route. I find myself more than a little bit burnt-out on projects right now.

It is about as close to the blower intake as you can get without spraying directly in. If I am not happy with it there, it can be moved. I am sure some cooling will go to the elbow, I'll soon see if too much is lost there and if I want/need to move it based upon what I get when data logging IAT's.

I'll share results. I also heard you on duel staged nozzles, but I am going to start with a single number 6 injector. I think it will be enough at the 6-6.5lbs I will be running. It may be too much based on what I have read. They included a number 4 and 6, so I probably need the 5!

I read of an increase in boost with the denser air charge. I'll soon see if it produces a bit more boost. Did you see an increase?
 



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I'm running a dual nozzle injection at the inlet on another engine using a Kenne Bell, but honestly I've not been able to measure a noticeable reduction in air charge temperature - I'm using H2O, though... not meth. I simply tuned for ACT based ignition timing reduction to keep things safe and it's been working fine even in 100 degree ambients or higher. If I was going to put my money on improving the air charge cooling I would go drastic and integrate a liquid-air intercooler. Regardless, I'm sure you'll get that engine running well enough - you'll only need 1-2 psi of boost while climbing mountain grades at a cruise, hopefully.

The 4R should be able to handle the duties, but improved frictions are available if you wanted to rebuild. If you're planning to keep the stock unit in place for a while, I would definitely upgrade to something like a TCI deep pan, install a shift kit and add some EPC pressure where it counts. The stock converter's clutch is probably not up to the task of holding that much torque for long either, so maybe just ensure it's disengaged in high load (boost) situations.
 






The IAT sensor is on the number 5 cylinder intake runner as I am using an F150/Bronco lower. It heat soaks and usually reads close to the ECT. I do see it climb rapidly with boost so it will indicate cooling when it works. I hope I see some good results. I am taken back that you didn't get results cause you know your stuff well. The Meth helps considerably with cooling and octane but water only was used in WWII aircraft to pump-out much more power.

BMW is getting 50 more horses out of water injection on a boosted production inline 6. They have two tunes and it will automatically switch to a safe tune if the water runs out. I can switch tunes with my Tweecer and probably should put a buzzer along with the warning light if the tank runs low. I will also carry a couple extra gallons in jugs safely.
I have mounted the tank in the back. Therefore, I am going to try a 60/40 mix. It's a safety issue as anything above 40% Meth is flammable. I guess it is safer running 50/50 than pure Meth but it is flammable.

I hope I get more power, but also want it running safer/cooler. I did a bit more research on the Spray. I found more that said if you are already pretty well maxed-out, on the edge of timing and fuel, you will get decent results. My tune is and it is set-up to pull timing at high IAT's. Most are increasing power with the spray by adding timing and pulling fuel to get more power. Silly me, I may change my mind and tune a bit deeper once it is set-up and working reliably. Silly as I got to see it and feel it though it is working great for many.

The Tranny, I tuned it to shift a bit later and backed-off that with the stock cam. I had it hitting 2nd hard at 45MPH. It was a bit faster but also pushing it out to the max for what is my daily driver. I have increased line pressures for quicker firmer shifts. I suppose I could drop it and put a better TC in it. This tranny is supposed to be rebuilt with the latest mods, but I doubt frictions and TC where improved.
 






We played around with the mix for a while 50/50 works best for me

No need for a buzzer the light don't just come on it will Flickr first as the float bobs up and down

If you start spraying at low boost 2 psi for me
The blower don't have a chance to heat up
I'm able to get 120 f intake temps this way
 






We played around with the mix for a while 50/50 works best for me

No need for a buzzer the light don't just come on it will Flickr first as the float bobs up and down

If you start spraying at low boost 2 psi for me
The blower don't have a chance to heat up
I'm able to get 120 f intake temps this way

Cool, but thinking of wiring-in a fire alarm to keep from blowing up the engine!

Blown is as Blown do!

A flicker would work if I place the LED where I can't miss it, cause the boost gauge/controller with low level indicator goes down in the center consul and I don't watch it much when done with tuning.

It has warmed enough to get out and work on it some.
 






I read a bit more and learned about the Flash Point of Methanol/H2O. That is the lowest temperature at which vapors above the mix ignite in air when exposed to flame. Imagine that, the first You-Tube source was not taking into account temperature. I found a chart and at about 86 degrees a 40/60 mix Meth/H2O will flash/ignite. It appears that windshield washing fluid, rated down to -20 is a 23/77 mix and would flash around 100 degrees. A 50/50 mix flashes, goes to the air and can be ignited at 77 degrees and you got to mix all the way down below 8% Meth to eliminate flashing.

I see that there are degrees of safety based upon the mix and temperature.

This here install must have no leaks. I am going to keep it ventilated, but put a panel over the side of the tank to protect it from damage.
 






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