will I need the timing tools?

[douglasnc]

Had to replace driver's side head on 4.0sohc..Before removing head I set engine at TDC and marked timing locations of cam on head with sharpie and punch.as it turned out head was bad, but I bought a brand new complete head off e-bay for $200.00(great deal !)Also bought new head bolts and gasket set there...Had timing chain held in place with tie wire to prevent slipping off lower gear as I lifted head off.My question is when I removed chain tenisioner,did I ruin the whole timing(both sides) or could I just make sure left side cam is positioned correctly as old cam was when removed ? Those tools cost alot,and some of the threads led me to think that maybe it could be done with makshift tools.Engine has remained at TDC through out entire removal of head.Thanks

 

[2000StreetRod]

using new head

Since you are using the new head with it's camshaft and no saved marks the timing for the left camshaft will have to be performed. Did you remove the left guide assembly without loosening the jackshaft front sprocket retaining bolt? If so, the timing for the right bank has not changed. If you loosened the jackshaft sprocket bolt then both camshafts will have to be timed even though the crankshaft has not moved. The valve spring pressure will force the right camshaft to rotate as soon as the jackshaft sprocket is loosened. You can time the camshaft fairly accurately without using the OTC-6488 timing kit. However, you have to be careful and it is more difficult. I will be glad to help you if you want to attempt it. Just post when you have the head installed and the cassette in place.

 

[douglasnc]

Thanks for the quick reply! As for the jackshaft,I haven't even removed the front cover. Just tied up the jackshaft chain and removed the tensioner bolt(intake side of head) and lifted head off.As for the left guide ass. if I'm following you,I also sorta sqeezed it togeather(big rubberband) with the chain to allow head to clear opening as it was lifted off. Guides looked good and I hope to keep useing them for awhile.Front tenisoners were recalled about 40k ago I think.So I hope everything else is still in time. Could use some help in retiming left cam though.Took picture of old head's cam position while on TDC to hopfully position cam on new head the same .You'r right that marking the old head's position didn't help as the shop removed the cam and valves to test head, so all was lose except my photo.. Thanks again for any guidance.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Cassette mounting bolt

Nice going removing the head without removing the front timing cover! Your right camshaft timing has not been disturbed. You must have removed the cassette upper mounting torx bolt as well as the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt in order to remove the head with the camshaft. It may take two people to install the head because of interference with the cassette.

Hopefully #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke. That would mean that the camshaft position sensor nub was above the axis of the camshaft when you removed the head as shown below.

 

[douglasnc]

Rod,You'r right. I did remove the torx bolt and cam sprocket.Will have to find my one photo of head before removal to check that camshaft position sensor nub's location. But I had number 1 plug out and held finger over plug hole as I bumped engine around untill I felt air pushing from plug hole.Then hand turned crank the rest of the way until timing marks on crank were at TDC.I had a remote starter to bump engine with.Waitting on head to arive witch may be a few more days yet..I sure feel better knowing folks like yourself are out there to help us rookies in our time's of need..Thanks again for all you'r support.

 

[2000StreetRod]

tensioner tool

You'll need some kind of tensioner tool. The spring in the hydraulic tensioner is not strong enough to make the chain taught for accurate timeshaft camshaft timing. Even if the crankshaft and camshaft are held from rotating with some devices, when you tighten the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt the hydraulic tensioner piston will retract allowing the sprocket to rotate several degrees with the bolt. Remember that one degree of camshaft timing is two degrees of crankshaft timing. With a tensioner tool you can make the chain taught and the crankshaft will prevent the camshaft sprocket from rotating. Or, you need a tool to prevent the camshaft sprocket from rotating when you tighten the sprocket retaining bolt. Something similar to the camshaft holding tool below might work.

 

[douglasnc]

Rod, I got head on. and was able to hold everything in place to torq .Used you'r photo as to position cam lobes in correct position as well as the cam shaft pisition nub.Noted that all valves were closed. Engine fired right up and ran great. Was smooth when reved and didn't run hot. Drove it 60 miles round trip with no issues. Today my wife drove it about fourteen miles and pulled into a drive through. It sounds like a lifter is ticking under the valve cover.Was not able to bleed the lifters without removing them from head so I just poured oil over them before replacing the valve cover.This is a brand new head complete with cam and lifters so i figured they blead the lifters when they installed them at the factory.Motor still cranks and runs great. Just hear the lifters clicking some now.At least I hope thats all it is...lol Whats you'r thoughts? That photo of the pistons with dents from the valves worry me some, but it sure sounds like a lifter not oiling good. Thanks again..P.S. lifter noise is comming from new head on left bank.

 

[2000StreetRod]

lash adjuster noise

My engine was full of sludge when I tore it down to correct my timing chain related problems. I brushed the engine components with Gunk engine flush which loosened much of the sludge. When I first started the engine I had a noisy lash adjuster which was probably due to a trapped sludge particle. I ran the engine until it was warmed up, added a can of engine flush, ran for five more minutes and then changed the oil and the filter. Even then I still had the lash adjuster "tick". On my first test drive after the engine was warmed up I ran it at WOT up to 5,500 rpm in a low gear. After that I never heard the "tick" again.

I suggest that you perform an engine flush as part of your next oil change. Until then, pay attention to the noise making sure it is not increasing.

 

[douglasnc]

Rod, all seems good now that I added a bottle of additive designed to free and quiten lifters.Quite as a mouse now and runs smooth.Couldn't have fixed her without all you'r help.We really appreciate it! Plan on running this new oil change maybe 200 miles and changing it again to make sure all is clean. Think I'll run some flush through it just before changing also.That product I used to free up the lifter was called "CD2" oil detergent in a yellow bottle at Autozone.Seemed to work fast..Again Rod, We really appreciate folks like you'r self being there for us.