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Window regulator replacement

Thank you Dr. Z!

My driver rear window stopped closing this past weekend. The white clip that your picture shows missing at end of the cable (that pulls the window closed) was lying in the bottom of the door. I was able to epoxy it back on and get the cables rewound around the motor drum and get the whole regulator working again. The motor seems fine, and your tip about releasing the finger on the window arm was perfect, much faster than drilling and then finding hardware to reassemble. I used a lot of epoxy, hopefully strong enough to last awhile!

thanks again! Very helpful post.

Do you have a Datsun by any chance?
 



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Rear Passenger Window Motor

The Rear Passenger Window Motor on my Explorer started making loud noises when rolling the window up and down. After a while the window just got stuck down and the motor would continue to spin with loud grinding noises. I was able to fix this by replacing the motor only, not the regulator. As you can see by comparing the 2nd and 3rd pics, the plastic gear snapped in a few places and was slipping as a result.

Motorcraft Window Motor (WLM-151)
Old Part: 1L2414A365AC
New Part: 3L247827145BA

OLD Motorcraft Window Motor with cover on:
10_zps7084173e.jpg


OLD Motorcraft Window Motor with cover off:
11_zpsabf9a298.jpg


NEW Motorcraft Window Motor with cover off:
12WLM-151800x600_zps3f7dcb47.jpg
 






Hi, I just wanted to say a big "Thank-you" to all the folks that post in these Forums. I have come here 3 or 4 times with issues with my Explorer. Each time I find the answer here and I can rectify the problem myself, saving $$$ and giving me some satisfaction.

I am not at all "mechanically inclined" but I will try things if it will save me some cash.

Yesterday my rear power window on my Explorer stopped working. On came the stress of what I was going to get hosed to have it fixed. I visited Explorer Forum and found this thread. I removed the regulator and then looked on the internet for a replacement. They were $80 - $120 which I would be ok paying.

Unfortunately I am in Canada and couldn't find it online where it would be here quickly. The local parts store had it in stock, but it was $190. Ouch. Off to the auto wrecker.

They had my year and no one had taken the regulator. Again, I am not mechanically inclined and I ended up turning the nut the wrong way and broke the bolt. ######!!!!

So I continued and got the part for $40 thinking I would figure it out when I got home. I lucked out and the broken bolt was on the arm. I swapped the arm with the one on the old regulator, installed and it worked!!

Very happy. Now I have to figure out why the rear door power lock doesn't work. Any tips?

Again, thank you to everyone who contributes here!!
 






My driver rear window stopped closing this past weekend. The white clip that your picture shows missing at end of the cable (that pulls the window closed) was lying in the bottom of the door. I was able to epoxy it back on and get the cables rewound around the motor drum and get the whole regulator working again. The motor seems fine, and your tip about releasing the finger on the window arm was perfect, much faster than drilling and then finding hardware to reassemble. I used a lot of epoxy, hopefully strong enough to last awhile!

thanks again! Very helpful post.

Do you have a Datsun by any chance?

I don't currently have a Datsun, but used to have a Datsun 2000 roadster. ??
 






The Rear Passenger Window Motor on my Explorer started making loud noises when rolling the window up and down. After a while the window just got stuck down and the motor would continue to spin with loud grinding noises. I was able to fix this by replacing the motor only, not the regulator. As you can see by comparing the 2nd and 3rd pics, the plastic gear snapped in a few places and was slipping as a result.

Motorcraft Window Motor (WLM-151)
Old Part: 1L2414A365AC
New Part: 3L247827145BA

Good photos! It's amazing that so much of the stuff is plastic now.
 






Thank You!

Dr Z

I have been lurking this site for several years, and your pics/instructions were perfect.

One minor difference: the regulator I bought had the slide/bracket already assembled, so I chose to use a Dremel saw and and drill to get the rivet out of the original bracket, then just bolt the bracket to the riser with a nut and a lock washer (which Ford should have done in the first place!)

That little interruption added about 30 mins to the project. You have to bring the window down about half way and get to the rivet thru the speaker hole with the dremel, and thru the hole next to the door latch with the drill...sort of a pain but every project has its issues...

Any way great write-up and I hope my tidbit is helpful to someone else.
 






Because of this great thread I've decided to try to tackle this myself. However, my window is stuck in the up position. Any suggestions on how to lower it manually so I access the rivets? Thanks!
 






Mine was the same way. IIRC, I loosened the window regulator components which freed up the cable and allowed the window to lower by gravity.
 






OK thanks! Do you remember if just loosening it did the trick or did you remove all of the mounting nuts?
 






Got my plastic peice from the junk yard. If window is up U just remove the 2 motor screws and turn the armature till U can get the window down far enough to remove it.
 






Still no luck. Since I'm replacing the whole unit could I just cut the cables to lower the window?
 






That would be an option but its onlyv2 screws to pull the end off the motor to get the window down. Just did this two months ago... front pass side
 






OK. I'll look again. I thought I removed all of the screws on the motor. I guess I missed the 2 you are referring to. Thanks again for your help!
 






OK thanks! Do you remember if just loosening it did the trick or did you remove all of the mounting nuts?

Been a while ago but I think I loosened them all and removed most, until the window would come down. It's all gotta' come out anyway.
 






Well I ended up cutting the cables and from then on it was easy. Putting the new one in was a snap. Plugged it in and it only goes up and the master doesn't work for that window at all. So I'm guessing either the master switch or a bad wire between the driver's door and the car from what I've read here. At least I now have a new regulator and motor in one window and have learned how to do the rest when the time comes! Thanks again for all of your help! Oh....and I only sliced one thumb during the process!!
 






The plastic clamp glued to the window broke. Where can i get that part? I've tried LKQ. Thanks.
 






The plastic clamp glued to the window broke. Where can i get that part? I've tried LKQ. Thanks.

A good source might be an auto parts recycler (junk yard) nearby. The best bet would be one where the door was smashed in an accident and the window broken. The pieces are probably sitting inside the door and you could get them cheap ($5 bucks?) without having to pay for a good window.
 






Thanks for this guide. I was able to knock this out today in about 2 hours -- it took me a little longer than I expected to drill out the rivets. Thanks again!
 






The pictures are no longer there, can you possibly report them please? My 03 explorer has the same problem now on driver side. I have all the replacement parts but no clue what to look at. Videos I'm finding aren't that helpful either
 



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The pictures are no longer there, can you possibly report them please? My 03 explorer has the same problem now on driver side. I have all the replacement parts but no clue what to look at. Videos I'm finding aren't that helpful either
Oops! Sorry about that. They were located on another site that was changed. They should be back now. Hope this helps!
 






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