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Window Woes


BoostedE21

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'91 4Dr XLT. My Driver and Driver Rear Window are experiencing some issues.

Driver window will go up and down, but about halfway up, i can hear the motor spinning but the window doesn't move unless I grab it and pull it up a few inches. Then the motor catches again. I haven't taken the panel off - is it possible that the motor is missing teeth? Or would this be an actual regulator issue?

Driver Rear doesn't move at all. I can hear the motor "trying," but it's not successful in moving the window. I think this might just be a worn out motor.

It looks like the cost to replace the whole regulator assembly + motor is about the same as just the motor....how difficult is the regulator assembly to remove? I saw an A1 Auto video where they were drilling out rivets....that's outside of my skill set, but if it's just a couple bolts, I'm good. What do y'all think?
 


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ChildIdenticant

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January 14, 2016
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City, State
california
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 explorer
sounds like both just need a set of these: Window Motor Clutch Plug

This requires removing the interior door panel , some minor drilling , and I think removal of 3 nuts.
The parts cost is minimal. ≈$8 for the plugs, ≈$4 for replacement panel retainers.
If it is your first time removing interior, go slow. The plastic is old and can break easily.

multiple videos exist to guide you.
 




Ray Leonard

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July 21, 2020
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City, State
Phoenix
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer XLT
sounds like both just need a set of these: Window Motor Clutch Plug

This requires removing the interior door panel , some minor drilling , and I think removal of 3 nuts.
The parts cost is minimal. ≈$8 for the plugs, ≈$4 for replacement panel retainers.
If it is your first time removing interior, go slow. The plastic is old and can break easily.

multiple videos exist to guide you.

Just bought a 94 xlt with 139K on it. I have/had same issues with all 4 windows. Just bought new motor/regulator assembly for the front 2 doors. will be buying the motor and gears for the rear doors next month
 




BKennedy

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1994 XLT
Sometimes, all it takes to get the windows moving again is to clean and grease the regulator. A tip for those who want to retain the plastic sheet dust cover on the doors. Cut around the edge of the cover inside the glue line, and around every place its glued to the door. When replacing, use duct tape. It will still seal, and be easily removable for next time.
 




Ray Leonard

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1997 Explorer XLT
Sometimes, all it takes to get the windows moving again is to clean and grease the regulator. A tip for those who want to retain the plastic sheet dust cover on the doors. Cut around the edge of the cover inside the glue line, and around every place its glued to the door. When replacing, use duct tape. It will still seal, and be easily removable for next time.
Actually I plan on dynomatting the doors. The plastic was already removed so not gonna deal with it. also waiting on the new door panels since who ever went in there before I got it destroyed the damn door panel thinking they were experts. Oh well, Rust free Arizona and it makes for a decent project. Only downside is its not a 4x4. And most likley will have to replace all vacuum hoses as its not ran for 5yrs and I'm sure the hoses are in worse condition then the air intake was!!!! Oh, gotta build a cold air intake from MAF to Throttle body this weekend
 




dcgerard

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City, State
Anderson
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1992 explorer XLT
I had all four of my windows quit on me. All it was the clutch plugs on all of them that went out. I took all the window motors out and cleaned them out and replaced the plugs with 3 nuts per motor. I had plenty of nuts and bolts laying around so it cost me nothing to fix my windows, plus the nuts wont disintegrate.
 




Ray Leonard

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Messages
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City, State
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1997 Explorer XLT
'91 4Dr XLT. My Driver and Driver Rear Window are experiencing some issues.

Driver window will go up and down, but about halfway up, i can hear the motor spinning but the window doesn't move unless I grab it and pull it up a few inches. Then the motor catches again. I haven't taken the panel off - is it possible that the motor is missing teeth? Or would this be an actual regulator issue?

Driver Rear doesn't move at all. I can hear the motor "trying," but it's not successful in moving the window. I think this might just be a worn out motor.

It looks like the cost to replace the whole regulator assembly + motor is about the same as just the motor....how difficult is the regulator assembly to remove? I saw an A1 Auto video where they were drilling out rivets....that's outside of my skill set, but if it's just a couple bolts, I'm good. What do y'all think?

its really not out of your skill set, drilling out rivets and re-riviting is really not much different then turning a wrench. But if you have the part, should be able to find a mobile mechanic that will do it for ya for $100 a window or a shop (if they allow you to use your own parts) $145. these were quotes I got as I'm lazy and would rather pay someone to do the work (and bitch at when something doesnt work right. LOL)
 




ChildIdenticant

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1994 explorer
I took all the window motors out and cleaned them out and replaced the plugs with 3 nuts per motor.

That trick does work, and it works well. But the clutch plugs are designed to be the weakest failure point, to prevent the costly replacement of the actual motor. The nut trick makes the stator windings the weakest, ensuring an overload will require complete replacement. If you intend to keep the nuts as a solution, at least change the circuit fuse to a resettable fuse, maybe of lower trip.
 




Roadrunner777

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94 4x4 Sport 88k
You know, I have done the nut trick a few times, and it worked pretty good for me. But, I learned something the other day with a similar motor, different vehicle. These accessory motors are typically 'permanent magnet' motors. And, by their nature, the magnets weaken with time. My experience was with a rear wiper motor, which is a similar design. The motor was weak, I could stop the wiper with barely any pressure. I replaced it with a rebuilt unit... almost the same exact issue. Well, it turns out the rebuild doesn't replace the motor. I realized this because the motor itself had original FORD markings. I then bought a new unit, all new components, and it's very strong! I'm ready for MN winter.

I'm just saying, if you have a slow/stalling window and you have tried all the tricks with the nuts, window tracks, etc... it could be that the motor itself is simply too weak due to age. If you have tried all these things, you might consider a new motor unit.
 




BoostedE21

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I had all four of my windows quit on me. All it was the clutch plugs on all of them that went out. I took all the window motors out and cleaned them out and replaced the plugs with 3 nuts per motor. I had plenty of nuts and bolts laying around so it cost me nothing to fix my windows, plus the nuts wont disintegrate.

Did you have to remove the regulator assembly to do this? Or were you able to pull the motor with the regulator still in place?
 




BKennedy

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1994 XLT
You can pull the motor by drilling out the three rivets holding it in place. Replace with bolts and lock nuts, I used nylon insert nuts. You do not have to remove the regulator.
 




dcgerard

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City, State
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1992 explorer XLT
I didn't pull the regulator at all. After you pull the door panel off and peel the plastic out of the way (if the plastic liner is still there), then you should be able to see 2 holes in the door that lead to the motor bolts. The third and final bolt you will have to drill the door to get to it, but luckily there will be a dent in the door right where you are supposed to drill. You cant miss it.
 




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