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How to: Wire in Factory Sub to Aftermarket Stereo

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ok.. now how about a reverse hook up..
I want to put my old ford radio in my jeep.. but I dont have the exploder any more to see the harness and wires to match them up..
can anyone show a pict of the factory plugs and what they go to .. I liked the sound of this radio .. can I buy the factory plugs anywhere??
thanks in advance..

mike
 



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the only problem I have is the popping that everyone else is describing. I shall fix that when I decide to remove the rear panel.

That should really be addressed behind the radio. Install a voltage regulator (available from a link I posted earlier) and call it good. A 5.6K resistor is also supposed to work, but I really don't like that idea. I guess you could install the regulator at the sub itself if you have a switched power supply. Just never seen it done there.
 






ok.. now how about a reverse hook up..
I want to put my old ford radio in my jeep.. but I dont have the exploder any more to see the harness and wires to match them up..
can anyone show a pict of the factory plugs and what they go to .. I liked the sound of this radio .. can I buy the factory plugs anywhere??
thanks in advance..

mike

You sure can. You can get them from Motorcraft, but grab your ass. You will not believe what they charge for their pigtails. I would expect anywhere from $25 to $40 EACH. Or, you can go here:

http://www.installer.com/wires/index.php

Scroll down to the Ford harnesses, go to the 71- series numbers. 71- series are the ones that plug into the radio. Pick out the ones that match the radio you are using. They are Metra harnesses and available in a lot of places.
 












No that harness won't work. This one should though...
h120705008-f.jpg
 






No that harness won't work. This one should though...
h120705008-f.jpg

The last owner cut the large flat connector off and hard wired it to the HU (the one for the front and rear speakers), but I have a little square connector that I am assuming is for the factor sub.... it is not as large as the one that you pictured.
 






I guess it's worth a shot in that case. If the connector were stock though it should take the one pictured. Go to circuit city/best buy or other store and get either the premium harness that newer fords use or you can just buy that sub harness. I think the sub harness is less than 7 bucks but not everywhere will have it.
 






I guess it's worth a shot in that case. If the connector were stock though it should take the one pictured. Go to circuit city/best buy or other store and get either the premium harness that newer fords use or you can just buy that sub harness. I think the sub harness is less than 7 bucks but not everywhere will have it.

I might give it a shot, I am debating on getting a new head unit so if I do go that route I will get this harness, if not... oh well I have lived this long without it.

Besides it can't add that much to my listening experience can it? Its been so long since I have heard it.
 






Spotdog, does your 95 have JBL? If so, then you need something altogether different. That is a weird duck. The radio is actually back by the subwoofer. Your dash unit is nothing more than a controller. You can tell by looking to see if the antenna plugs in the dash unit or the rear unit by the subwoofer. Of course, if someone else has gone in and changed everything, all bets are off. But if you have the factory JBL still, to install an aftermarket head unit and utilize the factory subwoofer, wiring, etc., you need this set up:

http://www.installer.com/item/display_item.php?it=70-5601

This brings the factory speaker wires and antenna lead back to the dash.
 






Spotdog, does your 95 have JBL? If so, then you need something altogether different. That is a weird duck. The radio is actually back by the subwoofer. Your dash unit is nothing more than a controller. You can tell by looking to see if the antenna plugs in the dash unit or the rear unit by the subwoofer. Of course, if someone else has gone in and changed everything, all bets are off. But if you have the factory JBL still, to install an aftermarket head unit and utilize the factory subwoofer, wiring, etc., you need this set up:

http://www.installer.com/item/display_item.php?it=70-5601

This brings the factory speaker wires and antenna lead back to the dash.

Thank you very much. And yes I do/did have the JBL audio system (With CAR PHONE!!! hahah). This is what the previous owner did:

Cut old rectangle factory harness off and hard wired it to the aftermarket stereo, that did not work because he then ran NEW wires to all the door speakers. And the antenna hookup is in where the radio goes so... what ever that means. I still have one little square connector that I am assuming is to control the rear sub...? Its like the one I showed in the link.

What I did was took out his aftermarket and wired mine up to it and everything works since he ran new wires to the door speakers and the power antenna is broke so that dosn't matter. So maybe the rear sub is just screwed anyways. I would love to get a JL Audio stealth box but they are a little out of my price range right now.

Does any of this make sense? Hopefully! hahha

Thanks for the help by the way.
 






I did this mod today. The aftermarked wiring harness i have had an adapter with 4 leads for the sub plug, but the pins were in the wrong place. I pulled the pins out and moved them down where they should be, and wired an RCA to the adapter plug.Basically, I made an adapter just like Crutchfields. I hooked the 12v to switched power instead of constant power though- then it just plugged right in. Since I sold the stock sub driver, I had to buy an aftermarket sub. I got a Swiss Audio 8" sub from my local dealer. Its mounting depth was a little too deep, but I drilled out the rear bolt hole(now a voice coil vent hole) and used some rubber tape around the sub hole as a spacer.

It sounds 1000x better even running full range (my HU has no sub out). It sounds so much better mainly because I still have the stock component speakers in the front doors- they put out zero bass.
hey i got a aftermarket amp i wanna connect to my stock deck on my 2000 ford explorer xlt, could u give me a step by step approach to do this , I ripped my car apart 3 steperate times tying to pull wires but no lick yet.
I also have 2 -10'' subs with built in tweakers that i want ot connect to the amp for joy riding in the bush on weekends. the amp will fit perfectly under the middle back seat, so i can still put the seats down and through stuff in for 4x4 in. but i really need help with a step by step aprouch to connecting wires and what not to the stock audi system .
Thank you

Sean
 






Hardest part IMO is running the wire through the firewall. I haven't been lucky enough in any of my cars to just use a grommet that already exists on any of my cars.

You'll need an amp wiring kit, use this to get the correct gauge of wire for your particular amp and length of wire run. Most kits include all necessary pieces except the converter to give the amp the audio signal.

1) run your power wire from your battery back to the amp. Short as possible is the best and don't run it anywhere that it could get pinched and ground out. Ensure you have an inline fuse at most 12-18 inches from the battery. Before you connect anything to anything disconnect the negative terminal on the vehicle's battery and leave disconnected. You can connect the power wire to the positive terminal on the battery. Most amp kits have the parts needed.

2)Make a good ground connection back near where you are hooking the amp up at. Make sure you have a good metal-metal contact not just metal-paint contact the shorter the better.

3)Whenever I have a vehicle with no aftermarket head unit I usually run an amp turn-on from the fuse box. Do not connect it until right before you connect the ground wire back up to the battery in the hood.

4) I used a high level converter in my f150 and the quality was terrible. I recently used something I had laying around and was astonished how great it worked. This is what I used and it did a great job in my sisters grand prix.
I tapped into her 6x9's in the trunk to use as the input since she insisted on her stock radio. It works great you just have to be careful when adjusting because distortion is what blows subs/amps. Where you get the signal is your choice and many will recommend different ways of doing it but it is working just fine in my sisters car.

5)I'd get a small/short run of rca's 2ft or less to connect the amp to the crossover. Chances are the amp kit you bought will have 15-20ft rcas so these will make the install cleaner.

6)Connect the power, ground, remote wire and rca wire up to the amp and crossover. Once everything is connected properly the only thing left would be to hook the turn-on wire to the fuse box (assuming you have the subs already connected) and then follow that by the ground wire at the battery. Before doing this though double check everything to see that you didn't cross anything or connect anything in the wrong spot.

Test everything out and see if the amp turns on or not? You should be good to go, if not check fuses and connections. I'm sure I missed something...
 






Thanks man , One more question

Thanks man,
I just bought a sony audio player on Saturday for the truck as well,
I was wondering in the back of my Explorer XLT there is 2 main wire harnesses that go to the old stock player, I went to future shop and they gave me a radio connector for the new radio i bought to connect to the old stock player but the new radio has only 1 connection input? do I have to stripp the old lines and somehow reconnect them ?

also do u know of anyplace on the web with diagrams for easy connections that are free?

Also I didn't drill through the fire wall just went up through the left side pannel above the wheel well.
I this this beacuse a buddy of mine once totalled his audi which had 8000$ of sterio **** in it and the insurance only covered half his car as he drilled through the fire wall.

thanks man
easy

Sean
 






smooney

I too did not drill through my firewall to get power from my battery to the aftermarket sub I put in the back of my explorer. I am using a 350 watt inverter from radio shack and I put the power cable with the red and black clips through the right side fender just under where the fender and hood meet. It fits nicely and my inverter doesn't have to weather the conditions under the hood. the cable was just long enough to reach.

My previous attempt was with a black and decker inverter (made by Vector) but it was a piece of sh...er, junk. It had a 25 amp fuse inside of it and it blew and I had to take the whole thing apart to replace the fuse. The inverter from radio shack has a 30 amper and it is right on the outside where I can easily change it. The sub I'm using is a downward aimed powered Jensen made for a 5.1 surround sound system you put in your house. It is only about 8 inches but it booms enough for me and with the inverter I get all the power I need. I was going to get a downward aimed onkyo powered sub and do the same thing but the price was a little too steep (199 at the pawn shop) and if something blew I didn't want to take a chance of losing the 199 bucks I just spent on the sub. Losing 40 bucks in the Jensen wouldn't hurt nearly as much. so far so good. no problems at all. i'll have to take some pictures and post them on here to show you all how it looks now that I've got it all done. I started out with a stock '92 xlt and now it looks pretty cool, if I do say so myself. When I got it the stock amp was shot, stock radio was still in it, stock speakers still in it, stock lights, stock reflectors, everything. Now it is just slightly upgraded in the audio and lights department. Later I'll worry about things like putting in vid screens and dvd player and such.
 






Jayhawk: As for the onkyo I actually have one but it's in my house. IMO you should get something different. The 8 limits the bass output when compared to music. You should be able to get something open box item at circuit city for 200 bucks new or rather opened. MTX makes a powered sub and those are cheap as well.

Smooney: For the wiring harness try taking a pic of it for me. I cancelled my internet so the chances of me getting it might take a little while. You can't always trust what the radio store says you have. You could always take your truck up to the shop and show them the harness you have and say the one you gave me wasn't the correct one. See what happens. Sometimes though some idiot that previously owned the car hacked the stock wire right off of there so you might not be able to find exactly what you need. What's the info on your car so I can see if I can find what the factory color of wires are just in case you have to hard wire the radio.
 






Thanks

200 is too steep for my budget. Like I stated, I spent 40 bucks on my Jensen. I saw a Sony 8 or 10 inch sub non-powered for 45 bucks in a Wal-Mart today. I would have to build a box for it and hook up an amp and do wiring and that just involves too much work.
 






Try the sony 10" if that's the case.
 






Wired my 97 EB Subwoofer to New Head Unit

Following the advice given here I was able to wire my sub to the HU. My HU had 2 RCA sub outs which I ran back to the sub unit with an RCA extension cable. I then cut off the RCA plugs at this end and stripped the wires. I twisted the two "hot" center wires together and then twisted the two "ground" wires together also. I connected these to the two wires (not the white one) on top of the power amp. Most of the wiring diagrams I saw don't have the right color wires for these top ones. One wire got the "hot" set and the other wire got the "ground" set. You may have to switch these to keep subwoofer in phase with the front speakers. Just try switching when it's on and go for the better sound. My HU also has a wire for external amp activation which I ran back to the sub amp and attached it to the white wire on top next to the signal wires. Works great!
 






Welcome to the forum...glad you got it working like you want it to.
 



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Just added a ne HU to my girl's 02 Mountaineer. Here are the connections that worked for me.

Cut the 8 pin 4 wire connector off. You are left with a Red/black, Lt Blue/Red, Brown/Orange, and bare.

New HU amp wire (blue/white) connects to Red/Black
Positive RCA/speaker wire connects to Lt Blue/Red
Negative RCA/Speaker wire connects to Brown Orange
Bare is unused


Another note, I stopped by radio shack looking for 2.3k resistors. They had none so I settled for 1k and 3.3k. The 3.3k took the pop away but also too much power (the amp would not work). With the 1k the pop was still there but the amp worked.

Maybe someone can explain to me what the voltage drop is across the 1k and how they got that. Furthest I get is:

I=E/R
=12/1000
I=.012amps
thank you so much!!!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 






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