Wiring Diagram Needed!!!

[NitrousJunky]

I'm currently doing a MAJOR engine swap in a 93 Fox body Mustang. I'm putting a 99 5.0 Explorer engine in it. I have the complete engine harness,dash harness,fuse box,and steering column.

I need a diagrahm of the engine harness where it goes to the ECU. I'm going to have to take the wires out of the square plug that is with the ECU connector to re pin or splice to my 93 harness.
If some one could also guide to me to where I can find a complete under dash diagram it will be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Thanks for ANY help or responses.
Tony

 

[adam4584]

do you have access or know someone that does have access to Mitchel online or aldata? if so they should have everything you need.

 

[NitrousJunky]

Thanks for the info. I have ALL the harnesses out of the Eddie Bauer Explorer donar. Which has ALOT of creature comforts NOT found in the MUSTANG. The key is I want to keep my stock dash/gauge cluster and fuse box.
I don't want to take the dash out to try to rig the Explorer dash harness behind my dash. Not to mention find somewhere to put the fuse box.So the engine to ECU harness will be the stock direct fit but the other plug that is 2 connectors on my Stang is one big square plug on the Explorer that will need to be spliced to my 2 connectors on the ECU side. And almost the same thing on the drivers side going to my fusebox......

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm a lot fuzzy about the Mustang harness, but most of that sounds familier. I installed a 98 GT engine into a 95 Crown Vic, many years ago.

As just recommended, I agree greatly that you should install the entire engine, trans, and PCM harnesses. The wiring that I believe you are talking about going into the dash are for the instrument cluster basically. You will be needing to tap into the start circuit and ignition wiring from the Mustang. I hope you are using the trans from the Explorer, trying to eliminate the CEL codes is not good.

Some of your difficulty will be placing the PCM, the Powertrain control module, not ECM. The harnesses aren't terribly long to get it far from the engine. Like my Crown Vic swap you will need to somewhat unwrap the underhood harness and reroute and rewrap the harness to fit your engine bay better. That harness will be able to replace the entire Mustang underhood harness, and all of the individual unique relays spread around the bay, and the green fuel pump relay under the seat. Take plenty of time doing that, make it fit well and look good also.

Use the entire Explorer front dress, hopefully it fits very well. The height might be a little different, and the AC lines should need some fabricating. I've got a Mark VII that I've thought of doing that to instead of rebuilding it as is.

The three ignition wire colors that I recall are Red/blue for the start ignition circuit, Red/green for the run ignition, and White/red for the trans circuit for park/starting.

You should not tap into the engine harness at all. The wires that you should need will all be in the engine bay harness at the three big square firewall connectors. Mount that big power distribution box and work on finding the wiring matches between those small Mustang bay connectors, and the three Explorer connectors.

I don't know if the wiring diagrams available on DVD's will cover all of the circuits that you need, that's where I would start. I have a cheap set which I bought many years ago. Mine are difficult to identify circuits in the pictures/diagrams. There may be much better manuals available. Mine shows basically all wiring, but everything is referenced to connector #'s, not actual circuits. More specifically each circuit is numbered, and wires are all labeled by circuit #'s, colors, and the connectors which they go to.

The hard part is identifying the circuit numbers. See what kind of wiring diagrams are available through eBay and internet searches(Mustang DVD manuals). Good luck,

 

[NitrousJunky]

Thanks for the info....... On the tranny tip I'm running a NEW TKO-600 with the McLeod StreetTwin clutch set-up. Not sure but I'll probably just run a couple of jumper wires so it will start.
I'm also running a 10,000 RPM 2 stage nitrous plate. We ported the the intake upper and lower. The GT-40 P heads have a pretty large intake runner so the maniflod was MUCH larger. We always leave the floor of the port alone so there is a little step there to catch the intake charge when the valve is shut. It helps cause a tumbling effect that has shown us gains on the dyno.

I actually went to a FORD school a few years back called FORD FACT which stands for Ford Acccelerated Credential Training. So I'm pretty good with their daigrams I'm waiting for one of my old teachers to get back in town to get the bad boy detailed diagrams from him. Then all I need to do is sit down and trace out the ppower paths with my high lighters and mark which wires I need to jump and which circuites I can eliminate.
No emissions so lot's of garbage including the EGR will be by by. I will have to go into PCM and retune it anyways for the nitrous.

 

[CDW6212R]

From what I have read it may not be possible to stop the PCM from throwing the trans error codes. That is one of the very few things that have been improved since the OBDII PCM's. We cannot correct for tire sizes either, which is big for some, but won't matter to you. You have a cable run speedometer.

A thought, the PATS system is part of the 98+ models, and your 99 PCM. It requires a mated PATS module, plus the 99+ PCM's are returnless fuel systems(you can't use the 99 fuel rail). You could wire in the mating PATS module and ignition/key, but the returnless thing is a bigger question. I'm not absolutely sure that you can't use it(I'd ask Robert - Rocket...), but you may need a 98 or older PCM. Jamie here chose the non PATS PCM just so he didn't have to mess with that extra wiring issue for his Bronco II.

Details, it's all in the details.

 

[rocket 5979]

Within the 99 Explorer PCM the auto trans as well as the mechanical returnless fuel system can be eliminated to you can run a manual transmission (or standalone auto) and a full return fuel system. Usually this can be accomplished with the flip of a few system switches in the tune. When I went to my standalone auto tranny and the big return fuel system I initially did have quite a few tranny codes pop up, but then again these PTEC PCM's are quite a bit more complex than a EEC V. If you do have any codes pop up they can be taken care of through the tune.

What is your PCM box code for that 99 Explorer PCM? It should be a 4 digit code on the sticker on top of the PCM box itself.

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent Robert, I hadn't heard anything before to say that it could be done.

Thanks for chiming in, and do you think that any of the OBDII PCM's can have the speedometer adjusted? It's been looking like that is a rare thing to do in these trucks. My 99 work truck is no big deal, I'm off about a 1/2", but my Mountaineer I'd like to eventually get dead on correct. Regards,

 

[rocket 5979]

Excellent Robert, I hadn't heard anything before to say that it could be done.

Thanks for chiming in, and do you think that any of the OBDII PCM's can have the speedometer adjusted? It's been looking like that is a rare thing to do in these trucks. My 99 work truck is no big deal, I'm off about a 1/2", but my Mountaineer I'd like to eventually get dead on correct. Regards,

I looked in a 1998 Explorer as well as a 99-01 Explorer base tune and I didn't find anything referring tire revs per mile which is usually used to adjust the Speedo to read correctly for different height tires.