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wiring oem Power doors /windows

June 5, 2009
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Sorry guys i put this thread here because i think i mistakingly posted it in the wrong thread.


Hey guys I went to the yard today and just took both entire doors with the power windows/locks everything. I figure since I am modding and uograding the ranger I will just take both doors without trying to cut/ take the wiring and all the equiptment out the door ( which is a pita).

- So I would like to kmnow from the experts why are their so many wires?
- Do I just need to splice into the ranger ground and power wire?

Please help as much as you can and I will put pics up to identify what I am trying to relay to you great folks here. thanks...........


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If your Ranger has the correct matching huge connector in the LF door jamb, use that. It will bolt together and you only use the wires that you need to.

Memory seats take six wires, power windows take nine wires. There are about eight for the mirrors, six for keyless entry, maybe four for door locks. It's quite a few, but we love our options.

Elite members can upload pictures directly, you need to link to a picture hosted on another website.

okay i assume when you say LF you are saying drivers side fron. Also when you speak of this matching huge connector; could you explain a little more.

What i had my friend who works their do today while I watched and helped was to not cut any wires at the passendger side and just disconnect the connectow behind the passenger small foot panel.

I then had him go to the drivers door and we decided to remove dash so that we could see where we needed to disconnect the harness; but notice that the harness ran through door jam up around the dash and into i guess other wiring behind the dsah or radio area. ( maybe im wrong but I told him to just cut it right their as i figured i could splice. of course if i need to go back themn i will then remove the dash out further and retrieve the entire harness drivers side.

so anymore help will be much appreciated. thanks so much

The 95-01 Explorer LF connector is the size of a large fist, and has a 10mm bolt going in the top. Below is the body harness of my 99, the side that leads to the door and dash. You do not want to have to cut and splice that many wires.


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okay i will try and get pics today. i went back down last night and notice that in fact it wasthe drivers door that i did not cut wires and i just disconnected the harness from a small box up and around the dash. question: should i go back and retrieve the other part that connects to it? it continues to go around the upper back of the dash then down towards some location.......

i also notice that the passendger door wires was cut but the front beginning of the grounds,and other connectors are still their. question: should i also retrieve the rest of it as well? and where will i connect it to?
does the end connection have a plug and play in my ranger and all i have to do is take out my original connector and plug the new power connector in? thanks

That was the point of your question, to find out if the Ranger had the same wiring connectors. I know that some years do, but I'm not familiar with which ones. Many members here do know, maybe they will chime in before you compare yours.

If what you got on the left matches my picture above, then you don't want to have to go farther into the dash. The dash connector is there in my picture, it's the gray rectangular piece at the bottom left. The door jamb connector is on the right, see the boot, and it goes into the door connector from below, with the 10mm bolt going in from the top.

If the wiring doesn't match to plug in, it would be best to either find a Ranger door harness, or create a splice section and connector to match your truck. Meaning don't cut your own truck wiring outside of the doors.

It looks like you have most of what you need. Keep in mind that the truck wiring gets revised regularly. Hopefully, the doors and dash harness that you have are from a compatible year and model - the "safest" donor years for your 2001 would be 2001~2003.

One part that I didn't see is the Central Security Module. It is the receiver for the signal from the Remote Keyless Entry fob to operate the power locks. Look for it in the PS of the dash above the glove box. The PS airbag must come out to access it. the CSM is the white module in the photo:


is it necessary to have it. i am going aftermarket for a alarm. the module you speak of i believ is their in the dash. i just cut the wire from the rear of the dash as i figure i did not need it. and yes the system is from a compatible year 03

In the factory harness, there is no direct connection between the door switches and the power locks. The switches or the fobs tell the CSM to unlock the door and the CSM sends out the signal for it to happen. Sure, the dash harness could be rewired to bypass the CSM but I don't see why when you could just do a plug and play installation using the factory part.

well thats what i am wanting to do is a plug and play. thats why i retrieve the entire harness give and take alot of the wires wont be needed. but i get all my parts free and i felt that why not just take everything. if you could help me with future questions and you are in need of any parts please let me know and i will get it for you free of charge. i really appreciate all your help. thanks

Hello Bob, good to hear from you. You know the Rangers well, and with your Ranger I'm glad you are here to help him.

The Rangers have a much different wiring there. If that dash wiring wasn't cut I'd say swap the whole harness. What do you think Bob, there will be no power window circuits etc, in the dash? I think he needs to use his old dash wiring to fix the other one, if any wires are uncut use those instead of the cut wires.

I rebuilt a 99 Limited which had had the body harness cut in the left kick panel. Instead of trying to resplice about 75 wires, I paid $75 for a different body harness. Regards,

Most, if not all, Rangers that come from the factory with manual locks and crank windows do not have the wiring in the dash harness to support the PW/PL/PM. If his Power Equipment Group donor harness is properly repaired, I don't see why it couldn't be used. A dash harness is a PITA to change though.

i tell you what if it makes it all easy. only about 3-4 wires that was in the back of the donor dash were cut. so how about i just go back and take the entire dash tomorrow. rip it completely open and take the ending cuts that i made and splice them back in the harness i took from the donor dash; then i can route it the same way on my ranger dash like it was on the donor ranger dash. it should be then a plug and play........

on the other hane i thought i saw somewhere where someone did the swap with the oem harness and just spliced away......

I trust that Bob is correct about the wiring being different by option levels. You can easily know that by comparing the connector ends, and the wires within them.

It could be done either way as you suggest, but it's likely easier to re splice the cut wires, than to disassemble one harness to remove the needed extra wires.

If the wires that you repair are very small, then those likely are very low powered wires, and can be crimped only, safely. The big wires such as the power window wires will need to be soldered, do not just crimp those back together. Over time high powered wires will vibrate or wear from electrical use enough to begin to lose a good connection.

I like to use bare seamed crimp connectors for high powered circuits. I crimp them to hold them still, and then put heat and solder to them, the solder will melt and enter and fill the crimp connection.