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Wiring sub to stock head unit

runninwild

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Joined
September 2, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Tampa, Fl.
Year, Model & Trim Level
200 Explorer XLS
I have a 2000 XLS with the factory head unit, and I want to wire an amp and a sub to the stock head unit. I'm only gonna be putting out 120 watts RMS, nothing too big..I know I have to buy an RCA converter for the head unit to hook up, but im wondering about the quality of the sound coming from the sub. Is it worth keeping the stock head unit? Keep in mind I'm on a budget, but at the same time I'd like to have decent sound...I'm not too tech savvy, so what do you guys think?
 
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aaronajb1981

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 27, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Minneapolis, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
'06 XLS
Since a line out converter is alot cheaper than a new deck i would start with that. just run your rcs's and your remote turn on to the back of the stock head unit. this way if down the road you decide to change the deck less work then.

An aftermarket radio (especially one with sub control) will give you more flexibility for adjusting the subs.
 
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Jon94

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Joined
January 13, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Guilford, Connecticut
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Sport
You don't even need a line output converter. Just get an amp with speaker-level inputs.
 
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dpappyp

Member
Joined
February 11, 2008
Messages
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City, State
milwaukee
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Mountaineer
Do you have the factory amplified sub in the rear? If so, you can do what I did. It was overall a pain the ass figuring everything out as far what colored wires for what, among other things. But, if you do have the factory amplified sub in the back like me then I already did the crap trial and error work and can tell you how to do it relatively easily. Let me know if you need more details, but I'll give the gist of it.
1) The factory sub amp already takes essentially an RCA type input so you can just piggyback off that feed from the HU (signal sounded clean with aftermarket amp/sub)
2) You can hack into this feed right behind the rear seat, so less wires to run up to the HU
3) I'm sure you read/will read about the problem of the "pop" you get if you just straight up piggyback the aftermarket amps remote turn on lead from the HU
3a) The problem is because the difference in remote turn on wire length going to the HU and your amp, the HU turns off first. That's bad because when it turns off it sends a signal spike to your amp and "pops" the sub. An easy solution for this is to go to radioshack, pick up a diode, resistor, and capacitor. Essentially this'll make a short lived battery that when you turn the ignition off, your amp will turn off as usual, but the HU will be kept alive for a little longer from the stored juice in the capacitor it'll be getting. Thus, eliminating the "pop". How much longer? That's up to you based on capacitor/resistor sizing. I played it safe and didn't really care to figure the best sizing and just bought the biggest cap radioshack had for $5. The result? HU stays on for over a minute after the ignition is turned off. No big deal to me, it's jsut second nature for me now to manually turn off the HU when I get out. It'd be easy to pop in a smaller cap, but I spent too many frustrating days goofin around with getting the factory HU/aftermarket amp combo working perfectly that I said "F" it.

If you need more details/pics let me know and I'll gladly help. Well I guess not gladly, but I figure it's the right thing to do since I got so many other useful tips off these forums for repairs and whatnot.

good luck
 
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