? with install of Tranny Temp. Guage

[ExploringNC]

Over weekend I installed a temp. guage for my tranny. I put the sensor at the rubber hose coming from the secondary tranny cooler. Everything installed ok but I don't get any temp reading on the guage. I haven't been able to drive more than 30 - 40 miles yet and outside temps have been in the 30's but shouldn't the tranny temp be at least as warm as the water temp since the tranny fluids go threw the water radiator?

I recently replaced my tranny after the old one died and it left alot of material in the fluid, I blew the tranny lines out with an air hose to try and get all that material out. I am worried that I may have a blockage, keeping the fluid from flowing properly.

I do relise that where I put the sensor is on the downside of the radiators, should I cut into the solid tranny line coming out of the tranny before the radiator? I was trying to keep it simple and just splice into rubber hose.

 

[Turdle]

I would try to put the sender BEFORE the radiator--as this will be a more accurate temerature reading--
In the pan would be best---
the reason I say before--the radiator actually WARMS the transmission fluid--then the fluid circulates to the aux cooler
you should be getting a reading though--is there a chance the sender cable was kinked-or cut a bit--
I think it is a hollow tube, filled with a nitrogen gas. If the gas leaks out it will not "push" the needle---

 

[ExploringNC]

I was real careful not to get any kinks so its not that. I'm going to pull the sensor when I get a chance and put some heat to it, this will tell me if the sensor is ok or not. I would like to put it before the radiator but I'm just worried about cutting the solid line. Do you think I can just use a pipe cutter and compression fittings or do I need to flare the ends (not sure what that type of fitting is called).

 

[mace]

re

I have the exact same set up. initially, i had it on one hose, and the temp didnt fluctuate much. i figured i put on the return / cool line. i put the t-fitting in the other line, and it was more active. but in the winter, it runs around 100-130, summer it can get all the way to 180 +, or driving on the beach heats it up alot. everyone would agree the pan is better, but i didnt want to drill it out. this morning it was 15 degrees here, and it barely got to 120 after 15 miles to work. i think even though it doesnt show the temp in the pan, you can establish a baseline of what temps are normal, and what aint.

 

[Turdle]

I have the exact same set up. initially, i had it on one hose, and the temp didnt fluctuate much. i figured i put on the return / cool line. i put the t-fitting in the other line, and it was more active. but in the winter, it runs around 100-130, summer it can get all the way to 180 +, or driving on the beach heats it up alot. everyone would agree the pan is better, but i didnt want to drill it out. this morning it was 15 degrees here, and it barely got to 120 after 15 miles to work. i think even though it doesnt show the temp in the pan, you can establish a baseline of what temps are normal, and what aint.

Well,
Actually, this way you are monitoring the cooled fluid temperature, not the actual transmission temperature.
I would want to know the temperature of the hot fluid.

 

[ExploringNC]

Well,
Actually, this way you are monitoring the cooled fluid temperature, not the actual transmission temperature.
I would want to know the temperature of the hot fluid.

I agree, it's just that it was easier to tap into the rubber hose. I will be hitting the hardware store and put it in the solid line before the radiators.

 

[Turdle]

I agree, it's just that it was easier to tap into the rubber hose. I will be hitting the hardware store and put it in the solid line before the radiators.

Is there a way to attatch the line directly to the sender block, then use a flare union to attach the sender block directly to the radiator? This way would avoid the cutting of a line---

 

[ExploringNC]

Is there a way to attatch the line directly to the sender block, then use a flare union to attach the sender block directly to the radiator? This way would avoid the cutting of a line---

I would have to remount the guage and reroute the line. I currently put the guage in the center consol, that was the best place to put it. I don't have enough line from the sending unit to the guage to go to the top left of the radiator.