Won't start after changed brake light switch

[TheFord]

I have a 2004 Explorer XLT. Began having intermittent problem of not going out of park. And, the tail lights stayed on when car was parked and no key in ignition. Without knowing it until it was too late, the tail lights drained the battery. I changed the brake light switch. Then, after charging the battery and even having someone try to jump start, it won't crank or turn over. The dash lights up, radio and AC come on, mileage is still there and not zeroed out when key is turned but car does not click or try to crank. I've had no trouble with starter or any other troubles. I unplugged battery to change the brake switch. There is a red light on dash in center that blinks at a regular pace which has always been that way. I've never done any changes to the system or etc. I just click button on key dongle to unlock and drive away. One thing I did after battery went out and it was charging was I used the actual key in the door lock to open the drivers door because there wasn't enough battery to use the button on the push button dongle to unlock electric locks. Since them, I have put key in doorlock to lock and unlock in case it rests anything.

Also, I have noticed the anti-theft light flashes steady as normal but when I put the key in the ignition it begins to flash rapidly.

Any suggestions what I should check? Thank you.

 

[Rick]

It sounds like PATS may have been triggered by the bad battery:

Solved - Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

Antitheft and Alarm Systems: Description and Operation ANTI-THEFT The passive anti-theft system (PATS) uses radio frequency identification technology to deter a driveaway theft. Passive means that it does not require any activity from the user. The PATS uses a specially encoded ignition key...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[imp]

I have a 2004 Explorer XLT. Began having intermittent problem of not going out of park. And, the tail lights stayed on when car was parked and no key in ignition. Without knowing it until it was too late, the tail lights drained the battery. I changed the brake light switch. Then, after charging the battery and even having someone try to jump start, it won't crank or turn over. The dash lights up, radio and AC come on, mileage is still there and not zeroed out when key is turned but car does not click or try to crank. I've had no trouble with starter or any other troubles. I unplugged battery to change the brake switch. There is a red light on dash in center that blinks at a regular pace which has always been that way. I've never done any changes to the system or etc. I just click button on key dongle to unlock and drive away. One thing I did after battery went out and it was charging was I used the actual key in the door lock to open the drivers door because there wasn't enough battery to use the button on the push button dongle to unlock electric locks. Since them, I have put key in doorlock to lock and unlock in case it rests anything.

Also, I have noticed the anti-theft light flashes steady as normal but when I put the key in the ignition it begins to flash rapidly.

Any suggestions what I should check? Thank you.

The anti-theft light SHOULD illuminate SOLID ON when the key is turned to RUN before starting. The light SHOULD stay ON about 5 seconds, whether cranking or not, then go out completely. A rapid flashing indicates failure to "recognize" the key, and starting is disabled.

I know of no reason why a "bad battery" could disable the PATS system. If it did, what would happen when disconnecting/replacing batteries, PATS "dies"? No, it does not. Something else has happened here. Are you using the SAME KEY as before the trouble developed? There is a possibility the PATS Transceiver which surrounds the ignition key cylinder was damaged somehow. I would try replacing it. It is accessible by removing the upper and lower shrouds from the steering column, is held in place by one small screw, hidden behind wiring, and has a tiny electrical connector which connects it to the harness. It looks like this:

 

[TheFord]

Thank you for replies.

I have only one key with the fob on it. I noticed lights were on and battery died. Changed brake light switch and as mentioned tried to jump start but no crank no start. I don't hear a click either when turn key so wondering if starter relay bad but that pesky rapid flashing antitheft leads me to think it's PATS key problem. I put battery on a battery maintainer and the battery gauge on dashboard has gone back up. It was suggested I take battery in to be checked but I turned on headlights and turned key and the lights did not dim so I'm thinking battery might be ok.

I noticed the steering wheel is not locking and it used to lock. The red button on fob stopped working.

Wanted to mention it.

If it's key, since I only have one key would a locksmith program keys or only Ford?

If it's the transceiver can I purchase that at any parts place or only Ford? Does it require reprogramming?

 

[TheFord]

Thank you for replies.

I have only one key with the fob on it. I noticed lights were on and battery died. Changed brake light switch and as mentioned tried to jump start but no crank no start. I don't hear a click either when turn key so wondering if starter relay bad but that pesky rapid flashing antitheft leads me to think it's PATS key problem. I put battery on a battery maintainer and the battery gauge on dashboard has gone back up. It was suggested I take battery in to be checked but I turned on headlights and turned key and the lights did not dim so I'm thinking battery might be ok.

I noticed the steering wheel is not locking and it used to lock. The red button on fob stopped working.

Wanted to mention it.

If it's key, since I only have one key would a locksmith program keys or only Ford?

If it's the transceiver can I purchase that at any parts place or only Ford? Does it require reprogramming?

Found a used PATS Transeiver locally at a place that I may pickup . Called parts stores and they didn't have it. Does it require programming? Might be worth getting it since it's apparently a hard to get part.

 

[Mbrooks420]

A quality locksmith should be able to re-pair your key to the truck. I’ve seen this a few times when these have had dead batteries for an extended time.

 

[TheFord]

A quality locksmith should be able to re-pair your key to the truck. I’ve seen this a few times when these have had dead batteries for an extended time.

I wondered about having a locksmith come. When a locksmith does it, they would make two new keys? I have one with the fob on chain.

Is it possible that they would make new keys, wipe out current only key I have and then have a worse problem whereby new keys don't get recognized by PCM? Not familiar with the process so wondering how it works.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Worse problem? It doesn’t work at all now, right......

 

[TheFord]

Worse problem? It doesn’t work at all now, right......

Exactly lol you are correct. I called a locksmith and got a quote.

Have a person coming to check the starter and the neutral safety switch. I've checked the relays so that leaves the PATS and key.

Narrowing it down. Have a battery maintainer on and it's charging. Thought about taking battery to be tested but I'm leaning more towards the PATS because of the rapidly flashing light on the dash when key is turned. Otherwise it blinks steady slow normal pace.

Thank you for the replies.

 

[TheFord]

Exactly lol you are correct. I called a locksmith and got a quote.

Have a person coming to check the starter and the neutral safety switch. I've checked the relays so that leaves the PATS and key.

Narrowing it down. Have a battery maintainer on and it's charging. Thought about taking battery to be tested but I'm leaning more towards the PATS because of the rapidly flashing light on the dash when key is turned. Otherwise it blinks steady slow normal pace.

Thank you for the replies.

Btw the battery wasn't dead for long. Still had some juice in it when I discovered the tail lights were on. So I disconnected it at that time to keep from killing it all the way.

 

[fordysenior]

I recently had to replace the PATS transceiver on my 1999 F150 -- I got a used one from U Pull It for $5. It's worked perfectly. My truck engine would spin, but would not start. And it did not require any reprogramming. The transceiver sends the signal to the 'thing' that prevents the engine from starting -- I would imagine the Explorer is the same way. I did notice the transceiver has a very specific part number, and there's quite a few part numbers. Mine looked a little different than the one pictured in "imp"s response. Luckily, U Pull It had the exact same number, and the steering column was already loose. It took me longer to walk out to the truck than it did to remove the transceiver.
You can find used transceivers on Ebay also.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Exactly lol you are correct. I called a locksmith and got a quote.

Have a person coming to check the starter and the neutral safety switch. I've checked the relays so that leaves the PATS and key.

Narrowing it down. Have a battery maintainer on and it's charging. Thought about taking battery to be tested but I'm leaning more towards the PATS because of the rapidly flashing light on the dash when key is turned. Otherwise it blinks steady slow normal pace.

Thank you for the replies.

With the theft light blinking, it’s PATS. Zero reasons to check anything else.

 

[TheFord]

With the theft light blinking, it’s PATS. Zero reasons to check anything else.

Thank you again for the reply. Much appreciated. It's definitely flashing rapidly when I turn the key. I guess it could be the key, the transceiver or the PCM. I swapped the PCM relay, checked fuse (with eye, not a tester)..

Is this is problem that many have had after having a battery drain? Just curious. .

 

[Mbrooks420]

Thank you again for the reply. Much appreciated. It's definitely flashing rapidly when I turn the key. I guess it could be the key, the transceiver or the PCM. I swapped the PCM relay, checked fuse (with eye, not a tester)..

Is this is problem that many have had after having a battery drain? Just curious. .

It’s rare, but has happened to a few members on the site. Typically re-adding the keys into whatever computer controls PATS.

 

[TheFord]

It’s rare, but has happened to a few members on the site. Typically re-adding the keys into whatever computer controls PATS.

Okay, thank you. What a pain..battery goes and you get no crank no start and the famous flashing led. ugh

 

[Mbrooks420]

Okay, thank you. What a pain..battery goes and you get no crank no start and the famous flashing led. ugh

It’s exceedingly rare, it’s only popped up a few times. I’ve killed a dozen batteries or so in Ranger Based PATS equipped vehicles and never had a problem.

 

[TheFord]

It’s exceedingly rare, it’s only popped up a few times. I’ve killed a dozen batteries or so in Ranger Based PATS equipped vehicles and never had a problem.

Wish I had noticed the tail lights on sooner. That brake light switch is all I changed after the battery went out from those lights staying on. Had no idea that would cause me so much trouble. Have no idea how it can read the one key for years and then not after dead battery..so odd.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Low voltage is a problem for electronic memory. I’ve seen many processors running factory machinery lose its memory and completely default after brown outs. The same processors would sit completely off for days without issues.

 

[TheFord]

I recently had to replace the PATS transceiver on my 1999 F150 -- I got a used one from U Pull It for $5. It's worked perfectly. My truck engine would spin, but would not start. And it did not require any reprogramming. The transceiver sends the signal to the 'thing' that prevents the engine from starting -- I would imagine the Explorer is the same way. I did notice the transceiver has a very specific part number, and there's quite a few part numbers. Mine looked a little different than the one pictured in "imp"s response. Luckily, U Pull It had the exact same number, and the steering column was already loose. It took me longer to walk out to the truck than it did to remove the transceiver.
You can find used transceivers on Ebay also.

Good to know it doesn't require programming. I have to figure out how to take off the plastics to get to the part. Didn't see many screws so perhaps it snaps somehow. I need the part number to find the one that matches I guess unless the salvage yard can match up the one they have to my 2004 Explorer XLT.

Located a locksmith that can come and reprogram key and can diagnose to see if transceiver is the problem. But if I can get to mine and put another one in would be a savings to say the least.

Thank you.

 

[TheFord]

Low voltage is a problem for electronic memory. I’ve seen many processors running factory machinery lose its memory and completely default after brown outs. The same processors would sit completely off for days without issues.

Guess my options are to take battery in for testing. It's charged but maybe there is a bad cell or something. Battery isn't new... have had no starting issues. But maybe damaged after it drained.

Then, change out the transceiver. If I can get to the part.

Versus locksmith and towed to mechanic as last resort s.

Been a week so got to get this car moving..