Won't Start - SecuriLock? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Won't Start - SecuriLock?

vaprtrl

Member
Joined
January 3, 2010
Messages
25
Reaction score
1
City, State
Akron, OH
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 XLT
Hello, all. I appreciate your reading my question.

My 2002 Explorer recently would not turn over when the key was turned to the START position. I did some troubleshooting, all relays/fuses/etc. were good, and found that there was power at the starter solenoid. So I replaced the starter.

When I turned the key to START, it turned over for a moment and then started clicking (ratatatatatatat, as though the solenoid was trying to engage but couldn't quite get there).

My thought process:
When I was tightening the positive cable to the starter, the back of the solenoid rotated in the housing (a little bit). I though this might have caused a problem, so I tried to loosen the cable and retighten it. My mistake was that I forgot to disconnect the negative battery cable this time, and I got a spark off my wrench. I pulled it out without more sparks, disconnected the negative battery cable, and adjusted the starter wires to my liking. Then I reconnected the battery cable.

Now when I turn the ignition to ON, the THEFT light flashes very quickly (both original ignition keys). After about a minute it flashes what I think is 1:1 (it flashes, pauses 2.5s, flashes, pauses 3.5s, then repeats). I've disconnected the battery and let it sit for an hour as well as overnight hoping that it would help, but it does not change anything. Also, the first time I turn the key to ON I notice the speedometer goes to 120, then backs down to zero (I only notice this the first time after reconnecting the battery).

So...
I'm pretty sure I've hosed something in the computer system. Based on the numerous posts to the forum, I think the best case is that the system has forgotten the key codes. The worst case is that I've damaged the PCM.

What I'm looking for is, did I do so much damage that this is expensive (PCM)? Or is it most likely that I need to be reprogrammed? I can afford one towing, and need to know if I should bring it to the dealer for a reprogramming or if I should tow it home and part it out. I'd appreciate any thoughts on what is my most likely scenario.

By the way, I'm open to trying a few more things before towing, if there are any suggestions (the car is at my place of employment). For instance, "lock and unlock the driver's door 8 times using the key" - I've seen a few posts about that, but don't really believe it.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Alan
 



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When I turned the key to START, it turned over for a moment and then started clicking (ratatatatatatat, as though the solenoid was trying to engage but couldn't quite get there).

That sound is a classic dead battery sound. Or bad cable/connection. The gauges crazy reaction also indicates low battery condition, from what I've experienced. Positive cable has a tendency to degrade inside the red insulating cover where you can't see it.

Maybe a time for a load test on the battery?
 






[MENTION=156612]D Hook[/MENTION], thanks for the reply. I talked through this with a few folks today - we started to think about the battery, because when I first tried to start it I heard the "ratatatatatat" sound (same thing you suggested).

Today I'll re-check the fuses (not expecting any issues), and charge the battery. If I can at least get it out of THEFT mode, then I can get the rest of the way without too much trouble.

Is it reasonable to think that the low battery would also put me into THEFT mode?
 






Update:
Last night I checked the fuses (they were all fine, as expected). I jumped the battery with my other vehicle, but the THEFT system still kept the starter disabled (also as expected). So I think that everything is the way it's supposed to be, I only need to get around the SecuriLock system.

Based on my original post, does anyone have thoughts on how bad my problem is? I'm looking for responses like, "it is most likely that the key codes were lost, tow it and reprogram it", or "it is very likely that you fried the PCM, and it's gonna cost you $2000 to replace".

Thanks for your comments.

Alan
 






When you say the starter is disabled, does that mean the starter is not turning over the engine?

When you try to start the vehicle without a coded key, the engine will turn over but not start. That's been my experience anyway.

Here's an explanation of the Securilock system:
http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/securilock/index.html

I doubt you fried the PCM but you might have to take it to a dealer to verify that.

Do a Bing search for Securilock and it brings up several other documents of information that might help.
 






Thanks, [MENTION=156612]D Hook[/MENTION]. Let me lay out the current situation:
* Key fobs lock and unlock the vehicle normally.
* THEFT indicator flashes every 2 seconds (normal).
* When I insert the key and turn to ON, the THEFT light flashes quickly for about a minute, then flashes what I think is 1:1.
* When I turn the key to START, the engine will not turn over at all (THEFT light flashing quickly).

I have read a lot of online and forum information about not turning over and SecuriLock, but I can't get a good feel for what I did that has engaged the anti-theft system. It seems hopeful to think that shorting the starter only cleared the key codes from the security system without doing other electronic damage. However, maybe it is very likely that the only problem is that the codes were cleared. The very rough information I've read indicates that re-coding the keys is cheap ($100-$200), while repairing other electronics is expensive ($1000-$2000). I really can't justify spending thousands to fix this, so I'm trying to judge my risk.

Alan
 






If the engine doesn't even turn over, then I'd still be looking at a battery issue. If you try an uncoded key, the engine will turn but not start. I had that experience when I first bought my truck because it only had one key. I asked the dealer to supply an extra as part of the purchase and they gave me a key that was just a regular key. It would unlock the door, turn in the ignition and make the engine turnover but without the chip in the key, it wouldn't start. I finally got the correct key and had it coded and haven't had trouble since. I keep the other non-coded key just in case I lock my keys in the truck.

So I know a key without the code will turn the engine over but not start. Maybe someone has had a different experience.

You might want to look at the positive cable that goes to the starter. I've read on this site about people finding a corrosion spot deep in the cable that not visible without removing the jacket. Cheaper than any other option so far. :)
 






Did you try removing the battery and have it tested at the parts store?

I have that classic ratatatatat sound everytime my battery is dead or very low in charge. Jump starting didn't help either, my last AutoCraft Silver (750 CCA) battery lasted only 3.5 years. When advanced auto tested it, it can only go up to 250 CCA (which is enough to power the accessories but start the truck)
 






I know batteries are a personal preference it seems but I can only speak to Motorcraft batteries because they're the only ones that have exceeded their warranty. The battery in my Mustang GT was 13 years old when it finally quit. Cold weather will make a battery die unexpectedly. All three of our vehicles only have Motorcraft brand batteries.

I know some will say they're made by the same company that makes WYZ brand batteries but I can only relay my experience. I've tried the Die Hards and the discount parts stores batteries, as well as WalMart brand and have never had one last as long as the Motorcraft brand. (No, I don't work for Ford.) YMMV.
 






Update:

Took the vehicle to the dealer. I had to go back and forth a few times to get the whole story (although I think there are still some missing pieces).

They basically say that
1. The PATS tranceiver is bad. $30 part, $330 labor. $400 total out the door after tax, etc.
2. The tech could not communicate with the PCM. $600 part. Labor, tax, etc. extra.

I see that both part replacements are VERY easy - they're basically plug and play. I could probably do it in the dealer's parking lot in half an hour. I'm thinking that I'll buy a new tranceiver ($30) and a used or rebuilt PCM ($40 to $300). But if I do that, I don't know what I'll need to do for programming. Will I be back at the dealership for $400 worth of programming? Or is it as simple as re-programming the keys, and then I'm off?

Thanks for any advice.

Alan
 






Update:
Replaced the PATS transceiver as the dealer told me it was bad. I also think that the PCM is good because the correct mileage shows up on the dash (am I wrong to think this?). When I turn the key to run, the THEFT light still flashes quickly.

So now I'm thinking that either
1. The new transceiver is messed up because I plugged it in to my messed up system, or
2. The PCM is somehow bad, even though it shows the mileage.

Any other thoughts?
 






Update:
Picked up a scan tool from Autozone.
* Old PATS transceiver: scan tool cannot communicate with PCM
* New PATS transceiver: scan tool DOES communicate with PCM

In both cases the engine will not turn over, and I have a fast-flashing THEFT light.

So I'm partly on the right track. But the scan tool does not tell me any codes. Any thoughts as to where I go from here?
 






Hopefully someone with more PCM experience will chime in. I have none.

Are the gauges still acting strange?
 






Any update?
 






All,

Final update on this issue. The big picture is that during diagnostics, the dealer somehow came to a point where he needed to re-code the keys. Since the transceiver was not working, the keys were not coded, and the existing keys were cleared. So he basically gave the vehicle back to me in a condition different that I gave it to him; in essence, I could NEVER have fixed the problem, because he had removed my keys from the PATS system.

I had several problems of mistrust with this dealership. It boils down to communication problems - they use a "service agent" to communicate between the technician and the customer. They started out telling me that it would be $400 to get the transceiver changed, and only then would they be able to tell whether the PCM would need to be replaced ($600 plus labor). After digging in with one of the techs, it turns out that the $400 quote included a number of items: 1) replace PATS transceiver ($30 + labor), 2) cut two new keys, 3) reprogram the new keys, 4) diagnostic (which I had already paid for). The "service agent" did not break down the quote for me - she basically just told me it was $400 to get to the next step.

I'll give the dealer a little bit of a break because the tech that finally solved my problem worked very hard with a very agitated customer (me) and got to the root of the problem. He really did a great job.

The transceiver is such an easy and inexpensive repair, I feel like it is a no-brainer to just replace it if the theft system comes on. If I had known that and done that at the start, I would have avoided the trip to the dealership in the first place.

Thanks for the support, guys. This problem was a little tougher for me than usual, but the forum has saved me quite a few times.

Alan
 






Glad to hear you got it solved and thanks for the update.

My wife has had a run in with a service agent at our local dealer. Usually, there isn't any problem and we trust the dealership but then she got a new service agent who wasn't very good at her job and knew very little about cars (and less about customer service). We asked for a different agent next time we went in for service.
 






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