Wrapping up the 4.0 SOHC rebuild | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Wrapping up the 4.0 SOHC rebuild

amj441

New Member
Joined
December 13, 2015
Messages
7
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5
City, State
Houston, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer xlt
Hello all,
I have recently almost finished my 4.0sohc rebuild and am having difficulty remember where wires and evap lines are routed. I have the strange in-between year of a 1999 engine but 2000 model. I have them almost done, but Im missing bolts and I have surplus (not good).

Ill be including some photos and if someone can help me confirm which bolts are what it would appreciated.
Let me know if you spot something out of place. (I do have the thermostat housing and crossover pipe, but im missing bolts for the heater core bracket.)

IMG_20231231_151316091.jpg


IMG_20231231_151323090.jpg


IMG_20231231_151258358.jpg


IMG_20231231_151310677.jpg


IMG_20231231_151714912.jpg


IMG_20231231_151337821.jpg


IMG_20231231_151331641.jpg
 



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The 4
Long gold bolts are for the ac compressor I believe the 3 Others are alternator, so some of those Bolts are left over because they are for accessories you have not mounted yet
Two of them look like starter bolts
Some possible exhaust bolts

Looks like you are doing a good job thus far! Keep going
 






The 4
Long gold bolts are for the ac compressor I believe the 3 Others are alternator, so some of those Bolts are left over because they are for accessories you have not mounted yet
Two of them look like starter bolts
Some possible exhaust bolts

Looks like you are doing a good job thus far! Keep going
Thank you very much. I have discovered after sticking the engine in the car today that the gold ones are for the a/c, the Rusted ones are exhaust. The Brown ones with a neck 2 short, 4 medium and two long are for the transmission. The small silver bracket is for the alternator wire and bolts on with the mounting bolt.

Starter bolts are two REALLY skinny ones that are not in this magnet tray. I am worried about the copious amounts of small bolts and nuts that may not make it to their home. So far as I put things in, they stand out and I find their place.

I will post better pictures when Its complete.

Going In.jpg



Below Is a clear photo of the front of the engine without the accessories so people can
99 4.0 sohc front view.jpg
 






Hello,

that looks very nice, so much work in doing the timing chains(?), cleaning and painting.
Ask myself why you do not install the brakets for alternator, AC and steering pump before?

Looking at your picture i would recomend to change the marked parts if possible.
The waterpump clamps like to fail and the short hose could crack .
The evap hose is cracked already, the egr o-ring seems worn.
(Did you use new hoses for the dpfe sensor?
The metal thermostat housing is good until it get leaks.)
US_SOHC_front.jpg


Had the same "problem" with different bolts, so i put them in until i used them.
IMG_2265.JPG


IMG_2299.JPG


Push all thumbs for the first firing!

kind regards

Wolfgang
 






Hello,

that looks very nice, so much work in doing the timing chains(?), cleaning and painting.
Ask myself why you do not install the brakets for alternator, AC and steering pump before?

Looking at your picture i would recomend to change the marked parts if possible.
The waterpump clamps like to fail and the short hose could crack .
The evap hose is cracked already, the egr o-ring seems worn.
(Did you use new hoses for the dpfe sensor?
The metal thermostat housing is good until it get leaks.)
View attachment 448992

Had the same "problem" with different bolts, so i put them in until i used them.
View attachment 448993

View attachment 448994

Push all thumbs for the first firing!

kind regards

Wolfgang

Hey wolfgang!

Thank you for the kind spots and heads up! Your engine looks so pretty, Where did you find a replacement egr tube O-ring? mine is old but working, but I would love to replace it. I see you have the 97-98 variant with additional fuel lines. Did you have difficulty removing your crankcase vent? mine cracked right at the neck and I was unable to source one. I installed a freeze plug, a vent filter on the valve cover, and have blocked the lines in the rear of the intake instead. it is unfortunately a discontinued part, and the only metal ones being created back in the Pinto days of the cologne block.

Here ill provide my answers to your questions from your reply:

- I didnt install the power steering and alternator brackets before installing the engine, as it was easier for us to install the engine with less accessories in the way. It was a tight squeeze with the crane that I have. I also had no removed the a/c compressor or lines and left them in the vehicle when I pulled the engine. Leaving the a/c compressor off also gives you a bit more room with the fuel lines and evap hoses that go to the charcoal canister.

- For the water pump small hose, that dent is from the clamp sitting on that hose for almost a year since i removed the engine in April of 2023. That small hose was replaced in november of 2022 so it is fairly new, so i elected not to replace it.

- That crack on my evap line is superficial. that evap line is a hard plastic on the inside but wrapped with a rubber coating on the outside. The crack is only on the sleeve but does not extend into the plastic. The line has been smoke tested and does not appear to be leaking.

- I did get new hoses for the DPFE sensor, so im set there.

- I elected to get the metal thermostat as my old one had crumbled and sealing up the old housing was difficult. I do feel as though i will have some issues with radiant heat as the plastic would be a bit more insulative. Time will tell if it was a good call.



First time firing results (and tips):

After firing the engine for the first time, I found that I had cracked the flexplate when installing the engine. The transmission will have to be removed to replace it. To prevent from cracking the flexplate and to make engine installation easier. I recommend removing the engine mount brackets from the engine before installing the engine into the vehicle with the transmission still in place. this will make it easier to line up and get all the bolts in from up top of the engine. After getting the transmission installed, all you have to do is line up the brackets on the engine and bolt them into place.

Other than that, no knocks or horrific metal noises from the engine (other than the flexplate). No excessive blowby or fuel leaks, and the oil stays in the engine. so it was a success!
 






After firing the engine for the first time, I found that I had cracked the flexplate when installing the engine. The transmission will have to be removed to replace it. To prevent from cracking the flexplate and to make engine installation easier. I recommend removing the engine mount brackets from the engine before installing the engine into the vehicle with the transmission still in place. this will make it easier to line up and get all the bolts in from up top of the engine. After getting the transmission installed, all you have to do is line up the brackets on the engine and bolt them into place.


Yes

I have said this a gaziilion times on this forum if you are stabbing an engine to the trans then this is the way it is done otherwise you will be in for a battle and may lose or break things
 












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