Write-up: Chasing a coolant leak (Replace LIM gasket) | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Write-up: Chasing a coolant leak (Replace LIM gasket)

Thank you for the pictures. Mine's leaking in the same spot and while it's tolerable right now, I will be performing this job. Great info for archiving on this forum :)

Getting Ready to Install

Here are the aluminum parts cleaned, sandblasted and powder coated. You can see the old sensors, throttle body etc have been cleaned and re-installed. I sandblasted the valve covers and painted them.
I've shown the gaskets I am using. I installed the injectors in the fuel rail using a light coating of engine oil on the O rings and attached it to the LIM, and will put in as one unit, I think this is easier for me to work on the bench as much as possible. I've spent enough time in that engine bay ! Torque here is only 7 lbs.
I use liquid teflon for the threaded sensors in the UIM and LIM, I coat all fasteners with anti seize when it is steel going into aluminum, and things like spark plugs etc and you can bet that new bolt that holds the coil pack is getting it!
New gaskets or I make them for the bodies that attach to the UIM, I cleaned the fuel regulator and painted it with rust paint to try to preserve it as much as possible.

Cleaned and Sandblasted Aluminum then Clear Powder Coated.jpg

Injectors in Fuel Rail.jpg

LIM and Fuel Rail Gasket Set.jpg

LIM and Fuel Rail Ready to Install.jpg

UIM Ready to Install.jpg

Valve Covers Painted.jpg

Putting the pieces back

Here are the cleaned up gasket surfaces and the new rockers and pushrods installed. I was as careful as I could be around the water jacket openings to get the surface super clean, I used my small die grind on slow speed with a green pad on it, and got the small places by hand with emery cloth. The LIM went in with the fuel rail attached after carefully using sealant on both sides of the gasket at the front and back water jacket openings, following the instructions with the gasket and the Haynes manual. I was careful to put a dab where the valve cover gasket meets the intake because that's what Haynes called for.
All the torque settings here are very light 18 lbs on the intake and around 7 on the valve covers. Get everything ready before you put the sealant on, so you can work with no pressure and not concerned about the sealant setting up,, approx 15 mins time to work.





Finish it Up

I am pointing to the ground strap at the back of the driver's side valve cover which I removed to install the cover, don't forget to put it back on.
The new thermostat is shown, the vaccum line that used to run to the AC is now rigged to go from the UIM area near the fuel pressure sensor to the air box.
I use dielectric grease on spark plus wires, both ends because I'm from a cold weather climate, wet conditions, etc and this keeps the contact areas really clean. I also use antiseize on things like spark plugs etc that new bolt on the coil bracket, thermostat housing, alternator etc.
I have a pic of the fuel reg area showing that vaccum line that goes to it and T's off to the airbox.
The next one is that hose that runs from the purge cannister to the throttle body and has an electrical plug to connect to under the UIM.
I put in new oil and rad fluid.
The last pic is the Finish ! Whew! I turned the key on for a few seconds, about 5 or 6 times to pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks. It fired up and runs beautiful. 1st thing my son said when he got home from school,, man that thing runs sweet ! The injectors, rockers, push-rods and new spark plugs were the big updates , everything else was cleaning, essentially.