Actually, 10w30 vs. 5w30 CAN make a difference. At cold start up, such as just after changing the oil ( it is November), the oil will be cold, and will not flow as well (10w30 vs 5w30). This means A.) the oil pump has to work harder and B.) I t will take longer for the lifters (and the timing chain tensioners/guides- if it's a SOHC) to get oil. Remember, hydraulic lifters and the chain tensioner in the SOHC need oil pressure to function properly. When I first got my '99, w/ the SOHC, it had what I now know as a little chain rattle when cold. After switching to 5w30 (I use Mobil1 synthetic), no more cold start noise.
The smaller an engine is, the more effect oil viscosity will have on it. Try running 10w30 or 10w40 on an otherwise healthy little 4cyl, now drain and compare to 5w30 or even 5w20. You'll notice immediately that the idle is smoother, and you will probably feel the difference in throttle response when driving.
Assuming your engine is otherwise in decent shape (not smoking, burning oil, leaking out of every orifice), go back to 5w30,or even 5w20 ( for the winter). I would suggest switching to synthetic while you're at it. You'll get slightly better fuel economy, and the longer change interval will more than make up for the slight cost increase. Mobil1 is available at Walmart for $21 for 5 quarts. You can safely go to at least 6,000mile oil changes, possibly even 7,500miles. The Quaker State synthetic (the full synth, no the blend) is pretty good too, and even cheaper.
I'm not saying that your noise IS from the oil change but it COULD be. Since you just changed it, leave the filter, spend $20 on the oil, and go back to 5w30 (or 5w20) synthetic. See what happens. If it doesn't make a change, then of course, look into other possibilities. But, if the oil change is the only "change" between no noise and noise occurred, well first undo what you did, then go from there.