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Wrong motor oil

Fifty150

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5W and 10W only indicate what the weight is when you start it cold. You are still using a 30 weight oil.

If you've got a rattle, oil didn't cause it. And oil won't fix it.
 



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Fifty150

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Check your exhaust heat shield.
 






Car-Dog

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Mine does the same thing. No one can seem to find any thing wrong with it. Someone told me my cats were rattling..... i don't buy it. You get used to it after awhile. Just turn up the stereo.
 






rhauf

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the oil viscosity has nothing to do with the sound you're hearing. even if you ran 20w50 it would still run and sound normal (just wouldn't be great for it)

first of all, make sure you have oil pressure!!!!!!

second, you're OHV has no timing chain guides so you don't need to worry about that.

third, see if the rattle changes at differnet RPM. does it do it in park only or while driving? if it does it while driving, it could be pinging, which would mean you're running crappy gas. my OHV likes premium or else it will ping (it also gets significantly better mileage on premium so its worth it)

if it's a consistent tick, it could be a lifter tick.. or the lifters could have bled off during the oil change. after it runs for a minute the ticking would go away if they just bled off.
 






hunterdan

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The OHV will make a marble type noise from the lifters, but if the sound is underneath near the oil pan, definitely check out the heat shield on the crossover pipe. I cut mine off a few weeks or months after I bought the truck. One thing I would suggest doing if you haven't is doing a seafoam treatment, or there is another product called BG-44K that works very similar to the seafoam but I think is a bit more potent but more expensive. Search for seafoam on the board and you will find all you ever needed to know. But it sounds like your rattle could be a loose heat shield. You may have knocked something while you were under there. The straps could rust or snap and it will rattle on the exhaust pipe.

Dan
 






00Xplorer

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ok thanks for all the replys guys...i will get under there and check everything..i will let u guys know what i find
 






a1998explorer

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The Explorer does ask for 5w-30 but with 130,000 miles it is good to use 10w-30. I have 115,000 on my Explorer and I use 10w-30, It is better to use thicker oil on a high mileage engine
 






rileyrs

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10w 30 is not thicker than 5w 30 all the time, only at startup when cold. they are both still a multi viscosity oil that end up being 30 weight when warm.
 






Fifty150

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It is better to use thicker oil on a high mileage engine

I was taught that same thing when I was growing up. That was probably true back when oil came in cans and you had to stab a pour spout into the top. But engine technology and oil technology has changed.

At over 100,000 miles, I switched from 5W30 to 5W20, as per TSB 02-1-9. I thought for sure that I would have issues. Then shortly after that, I started running synthetic. I though for sure that I would have issues. Now at over 200,000 miles, I use Mobil 1 Advance Fuel Economy 0w30. No issues at all. If anything, the engine is a little cleaner due to the additive packs in the synthetic fluid.

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Fifty150

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Pay special attention to the above TSB. Not all Explorers are back-spec'd for 5W20.
 






Carguy3J

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Actually, 10w30 vs. 5w30 CAN make a difference. At cold start up, such as just after changing the oil ( it is November), the oil will be cold, and will not flow as well (10w30 vs 5w30). This means A.) the oil pump has to work harder and B.) I t will take longer for the lifters (and the timing chain tensioners/guides- if it's a SOHC) to get oil. Remember, hydraulic lifters and the chain tensioner in the SOHC need oil pressure to function properly. When I first got my '99, w/ the SOHC, it had what I now know as a little chain rattle when cold. After switching to 5w30 (I use Mobil1 synthetic), no more cold start noise.
The smaller an engine is, the more effect oil viscosity will have on it. Try running 10w30 or 10w40 on an otherwise healthy little 4cyl, now drain and compare to 5w30 or even 5w20. You'll notice immediately that the idle is smoother, and you will probably feel the difference in throttle response when driving.

Assuming your engine is otherwise in decent shape (not smoking, burning oil, leaking out of every orifice), go back to 5w30,or even 5w20 ( for the winter). I would suggest switching to synthetic while you're at it. You'll get slightly better fuel economy, and the longer change interval will more than make up for the slight cost increase. Mobil1 is available at Walmart for $21 for 5 quarts. You can safely go to at least 6,000mile oil changes, possibly even 7,500miles. The Quaker State synthetic (the full synth, no the blend) is pretty good too, and even cheaper.

I'm not saying that your noise IS from the oil change but it COULD be. Since you just changed it, leave the filter, spend $20 on the oil, and go back to 5w30 (or 5w20) synthetic. See what happens. If it doesn't make a change, then of course, look into other possibilities. But, if the oil change is the only "change" between no noise and noise occurred, well first undo what you did, then go from there.
 






Fifty150

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I run 10-30 and mine has been "ticking" for over a year now.

I always thought that was the cracked exhaust manifold. It could also be a broken fan clutch. And then there are the exhaust system heat shield that will also make noise.
 






Fifty150

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Mobil1 is available at Walmart for $21 for 5 quarts.

They also have the 0W oils. 0W20 is in the single quarts, and 0W30 is in the 5 quart jug. At least hey have that in my local area Wal*Mart. The 0W oil is labeled AFE, or Advanced Fuel Economy. It is suppose to get better mileage. I've started using it, but I have severe driving conditions which do not allow me to get ideal mileage. It doesn't matter what the MPG is suppose to be when your real world conditions have you sitting and idling for extended periods. I can see up to 24 MPG when I drive several hundred miles on the highway, with the cruise control set at 55, with a strong tail wind, and on perfectly level ground.

But I also noticed that my local area Wal*Mart charges about $24 for the 5 quart jug. I'm guessing that inventory and pricing will vary by region.

You can safely go to at least 6,000mile oil changes, possibly even 7,500miles.

With oil analysis, and a filter change at 5,000 miles, you may even see 10,000 miles.
 












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