WTB: 5.0L Water Pump Pulley (for a 1998 Mountaineer)

[delturcious]

Bought a motor to swap into a non-Explorer, and the water pump pulley was missing. Looks like these are way different than the Mustang pulleys. All the ones in the local JY will take hours to extract--hoping someone has one lying around.

 

[section525]

An RX-7?! Where’s your build thread?

I’m sure someone will have a part for you lying around.

 

[delturcious]

An RX-7?! Where’s your build thread?.

5.0 swaps are somewhat common on 1st gen RX-7s... you flip the engine crossmember around, add a Mustang oil pan with some cheap mounts from Granny's Speed Shop, and the motor is supposed to drop right in. Spoiler: it doesn't... the left head is so close to the firewall I couldn't get the valve cover on during my test fit.

I'm not too concerned about that, but engine management is the big question. I'll attempt building a Speeduino (uses TunerStudio like MegaSquirt, but cheaper). Unfortunately most people use Mustang motors with aftermarket EFI which seem to have nothing in common with Explorers outside of the block. Lots to learn here, but it looks like cam/crank signals are easy to extract.

No build thread yet--mainly just collecting parts as my job has gotten in the way of car projects lately. The previous owner collected a ton of parts. Some fit, some don't, and some important stuff was missing/wrong (like the cam is too much for stock valve springs and injectors). I have a couple photos on RX7Club but nothing too exciting:
Another Mazda in the fleet (some assembly required) - RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

I’m sure someone will have a part for you lying around.

Hopefully!

 

[delturcious]

Still hunting if anyone happens to have one

 

[Tim Ryan]

Bought a motor to swap into a non-Explorer, and the water pump pulley was missing. Looks like these are way different than the Mustang pulleys. All the ones in the local JY will take hours to extract--hoping someone has one lying around.

Where are these junk yards located? I could use just the pulley. I have a 1989 Mustang HO 5.0 engine that I need a short water-pump on it to fit in my '40 Ford. If I use a Explorer 5.0 water-pump, I won't have to recess the fire wall. Explorer water-pumps are available all over the place but, the required pulley seems 'un-obtainable' If radiator clearance isn't a problem, I would go with the Mustang water-pump. '89 Mustangs use a reverse-flow water-pump and a serpentine belt system, although a earlier water-pump (clock-wise rotation) can be used if you prefer V-belts. I hope your engine swap turns-out great.

 

[410Fortune]

The explorer serpentine front dress is way shorter then the mustang setups the PS pump pullies will not interchange

Ford engine management Holley makes a nice stand alone ECM the terminator, they even make one that can control the 4r70w automatic along with the explorer gt40 5.0, can work with the factory DIS ignition as well

The explorer computer can work also, I have put explorer 5.0 drivetrains into all sorts of trucks at the end of the day there are about 16 wires that interface with the vehicle side of things. You can always have the auto trans functions tuned out. This would by far be the cheapest option.

I MIGHT have a water pump pulley I can let go I will have to go look see, the pulley comes off of the pump with 3ea 10mm bolts?? Its the hub that the pulley bolts to that requires a puller (unless my brain is failing me?)

 

[CDW6212R]

I see this is an old thread, I was hoping to see more of the RX7 project here.

The Explorer WP pulley is super easy to remove, once the fan is removed with the special wrenches.

I need a mid 80's Ranger 4 cylinder WP, if you find one of those again, let me know. I'm going to do a serpentine belt system for my old Cleveland 4V, and I read that some 4cyl Ranger had a reverse rotation WP(the pulley is smooth). That pulley supposedly bolts onto the old Ford WP's.

 

[410Fortune]

We might have to just machine something for you sheesh, like cut the center out of a serpentine pulley and weld in a hub w the correct bolt pattern and offset
With 3d printers and plasma tables popping up in every hood these kids could figure something out for us if we trade enough beer!!

 

[Tim Ryan]

The explorer serpentine front dress is way shorter then the mustang setups the PS pump pullies will not interchange

Ford engine management Holley makes a nice stand alone ECM the terminator, they even make one that can control the 4r70w automatic along with the explorer gt40 5.0, can work with the factory DIS ignition as well

The explorer computer can work also, I have put explorer 5.0 drivetrains into all sorts of trucks at the end of the day there are about 16 wires that interface with the vehicle side of things. You can always have the auto trans functions tuned out. This would by far be the cheapest option.

I MIGHT have a water pump pulley I can let go I will have to go look see, the pulley comes off of the pump with 3ea 10mm bolts?? Its the hub that the pulley bolts to that requires a puller (unless my brain is failing me?)

The water-pump pulley for the 1997-2001 Explorer 5.0/302" engine is held on to the water-pump hub with FOUR bolts and the center hole is very large, compared to other pulleys. The front of the water-pump shaft is also threaded to accommodate the Fan Clutch. The '89 Mustang timing cover that I have, will not accept a Explorer 5.0/302" water-pump, it has to have a Explorer timing cover. I hope this helps.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, for the shorter WP's(two choices), you will have to use the timing cover from one of those. The 94/95 Mustang 302 also had a shorter WP and front dress, but it's about 3/8" longer than the Explorer WP etc. But both of the timing covers from those will take either WP, the Explorer timing cover just also has mounting bolts for its crank sensor.

 

[delturcious]

OP here... yes this was almost 2 years ago, and with being away most of that time for work, I haven't made a lot of progress on the RX-7. A few things of note if anyone is thinking about stuffing a 5.0 into a small car:

• I did find a water pump pully. I pulled up water pumps on www.car-part.com and just started cold calling yards until I found one that would sell me just the pulley. They don't know it's anything special and tend to throw them away
• When you choose a cam, don't put a flat tappet cam in a roller block like the guy I bought it from did. Thankfully I found that before rotating anything and bought a TrickFlow Stage 1.
• GT40P intake interferes with the hood latch, so I found a Mustang intake that should fit.
• GT40P heads require GT40P headers, and I couldn't find a set that would clear the manual steering box. I found a set of MAC non-P headers that fit, but that meant I needed different heads. Since I'd have to upgrade the valve springs anyway for the cam, it was easier (and cost effective) just to buy aluminum Flo-tek heads.
• Use a 2-pin VR cam follower, not a 3-pin hall effect one. I can't remember which one came on what years, but the former is easier to deal with in a custom ECU (Speeduino, in my case). The crank sensor is VR, and the 3-pin connector for the hall effect one is crazy expensive (mine was damaged).
• Ensure you have dowel pins to align the heads. They may have gotten stuck to the old heads when I sold them, but it's a $2 part that I couldn't find locally.

 

[delturcious]

We might have to just machine something for you sheesh, like cut the center out of a serpentine pulley and weld in a hub w the correct bolt pattern and offset
With 3d printers and plasma tables popping up in every hood these kids could figure something out for us if we trade enough beer!!

Oh, and I do have a 3D printer. I would never consider printing something like this, even in ABS (it'd make things easier though!). I'd be worried about the pulley cracking or inducing vibration on the pump.

...but I could probably whip up an STL file if someone was crazy enough to try printing one and putting it on their engine.

 

[410Fortune]

GT40 headers WILL fit GT40P heads and vise versa.... I have done it a few times
It just requires different spark plug wires. Nice upgrade to the aluminum units though!!!

What I meant was to print one 3d and then use it to make a mold for metal, ie the inside hub that can adapt serpentine pulley to whatever water pump he has.

You are talking about the camshaft synchronizer? the 3 pin was 96-97.5, the 2 pin was 98-01

thanks for updating progress
There was a red rx7 on the spokane craigslist for a while, it had a cobra 5.0 in it and not a bad price either! What a rocket those must be. My father had a 1988 RX7 turbo II with a cheater pipe and waste gate controller, man that car SCOOTED with the dual Wankel rotary, I always like the rotary engines I would have stuck with it. Car developed an exhaust leak down by the turbo and he sold it off when he bought a 96 Supra turbo 6 speed with T tops....turned out to be a much better investment.

 

[CDW6212R]

OP here... yes this was almost 2 years ago, and with being away most of that time for work, I haven't made a lot of progress on the RX-7. A few things of note if anyone is thinking about stuffing a 5.0 into a small car:

• I did find a water pump pully. I pulled up water pumps on www.car-part.com and just started cold calling yards until I found one that would sell me just the pulley. They don't know it's anything special and tend to throw them away
• When you choose a cam, don't put a flat tappet cam in a roller block like the guy I bought it from did. Thankfully I found that before rotating anything and bought a TrickFlow Stage 1.
• GT40P intake interferes with the hood latch, so I found a Mustang intake that should fit.
• GT40P heads require GT40P headers, and I couldn't find a set that would clear the manual steering box. I found a set of MAC non-P headers that fit, but that meant I needed different heads. Since I'd have to upgrade the valve springs anyway for the cam, it was easier (and cost effective) just to buy aluminum Flo-tek heads.
• Use a 2-pin VR cam follower, not a 3-pin hall effect one. I can't remember which one came on what years, but the former is easier to deal with in a custom ECU (Speeduino, in my case). The crank sensor is VR, and the 3-pin connector for the hall effect one is crazy expensive (mine was damaged).
• Ensure you have dowel pins to align the heads. They may have gotten stuck to the old heads when I sold them, but it's a $2 part that I couldn't find locally.

Thanks for the update, and I hope it gives you no trouble for a lot of years.

 

[CDW6212R]

...

What I meant was to print one 3d and then use it to make a mold for metal, ie the inside hub that can adapt serpentine pulley to whatever water pump he has.
...

I figured you did mean the 3D printing ideas for me. From the little I have looked, it seems like there are only two or three WP pulley center hole sizes, and two bolt patterns. The early Fords have a small center hole, while the later use a large hole and different 4-bolt pattern. So that mid 1980's when the stuff changed a lot, the serpentine systems slowly ran over and became the one belt kind.