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Xeek's '91

my white 1991 explorer xlt 4wd. bought it 3/19/2010. first vehicle ive ever owned.


3.19.2010 - starting out
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need to fix these
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things ive done:

5.1.2010
new rearview
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new cupholder
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5.4.2010
new fogs
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5.7.2010
new grill
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5.8.2010
painted headlightdoors black
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the starter also went out on me. truck is down for now



5.10.2010
out starter out. thanks jd
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new starter
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installed
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5.13.2010
painted grille black
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5.14.2010
brush guard/bull bar, also removed the valance. makes it look higher without it
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5.17.2010
best addition ever, explorerforum plate frames and a sticker
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5.18.2010
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6.4.2010
clear turns/corners and amber bulbs
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6.17.2010
replaced drivers door handle
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6.22.2010
replaced engine coolant temperature sensor (cel)
replaced temperature sending unit so my guage works now (need it in this heat)



6.24.2010
new KKM intake
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8.19.2010
train horns and flowmaster 50 suv kit(sounds a little to low but i still like it)

exhaust
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train horns
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^left compresser - right air valve
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sound clip. does no justice, much better in person
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=DSCN1434.mp4



10.11.2010
cherrybomb glasspack 18"
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11.07.2010
loud rattle i was hearing? heat sheild on top of the 2nd cat came off and wedged itself from falling.

also took the glasspack off, no muffler. pipe stops right before it would be at
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4



11.14.2010
gave myself an oil change. mobil 1 synthetic, k&n filter



11.22.2010-11.23.2010
ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:
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and the painted area behine the grille:
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i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner



11.24.2010-11.28.2010
bed lined front bumper, rear bumper+rear sides, grill, and re-added wal-mart lights.
took off the hitch that was attached the the bumper also.
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12.20.2010
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01.22.11 - clearance lights. LED, 13 per light, 65 total. very bright.
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3.27.2011
so after 3 months of the engine overhaul, its finally back in, finished, and fired up at 11.47pm! after fixing the inertia switch(oddly popped out), it fired right up, no problems!
link to build thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302553

video of its first start up




4.20.2011
2nd aux tranny cooler
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pcv filter.
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5.30.2011
'99 8.8, aussie, 3.73, soa
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9.4.11
non ac box conversion
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9.22.11
4" rough county lift and swap to 3.73 gears
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10.1.11
f150 tow hook
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10.9.11
15x8 creager soft 8s put on my 32x11.5 bfgs
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10.16.11
class V tow hitch
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12.31.11
drivers window motor damage. so nice to have a working window
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1.7.12
f150 seats to bring it to 5.5" lift
project #1 completed.
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4" + f150 seats + fa400 arm + unsettled suspension = this angle.
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1.7.12
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1.14.12
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Yea under no flex.jack it up with the crane like we did and see how much is there.you need a good 4 inches of slack.your probably going to have to use vise grips like i did the frame one to get that line off,juct dont crimp it trying to get it off
 



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its this one. had already taken the pic anyway, so ill just post it.
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i tried vise grips, they just spun around. so drenched it in pb blaster, so ill try again tomorrow.
ill jack it up too, there looked like a good amount of slack, so ill see for sure..
 






where can i buy that stupid hard line that goes across the axle.
i stripped the living hell out of the nut, so i cut it off, tried to flare it, but the tubing is bent in a bad spot and i cant straighten it enough to put the nut on to flare it. i give up. i just wanna buy the damn new line already made
 






Lmc
 






You find it? I have a parts book at home with the numbers if you cant find it.at work till 12tho.did you happen to give those guys a call for me today?
 












jd, can i borrow your impact? lol
my arms are sore as hell from the driveshaft. its still not even on all the way. 1 bolt is tight, 2 are very, very close, 4th you could prob stick a nickel in the gap. but i cant muscle them any tighter even with my 2ft breaker bar.

is something wrong or do i need to start lifting weights again? lol
 






its prob not seated right,jack the rear up by the pumpkin till both tires are of the ground and put in neutral and spin the shaft.they should go in easy and you should also locktight them
 






i pulled on and ajusted it and made it sit flat, but still ended up like that.
i dont think neutral would really matter, it lines up on the holes fine and theres some spinning movement if needed, its the angle and the weight of holding it up thats hard lol

i think ill try cleaning the threads, there may be some crap in there or something.
 






well these brakes arent through giving me hell yet.
old hard line was rusted into the fitting for the caliper/frame line, and it got rounded off. had to cut it off and couldnt flare it due to the bends on the line.
new drivers caliper line that goes to the frame. new hard line across the axle. ok...
i see fluid dripping from the connected line, cant tighten it, cant loosen it. starting to get rounded off.
so now the new crap leaks due to me not being able to tighten it anymore. its barely in there at all but i cant tighten it.


this is really getting old and annoying. im about to crimp the damn line and have no rear brakes... (which is one reason i did this in the first place to have damn calipers....)
 






new $22 drivers caliper line, trash.
passenger caliper line, trash.
new hard i bent, need re-flared and nuts.
line coming from frame, need re-flared and nut.
expensive brake fluid dripping away onto the ground.


what can i buy to cap off the frame line? or just vise grip it shut and fold it?
that way i can bleed the front and drive to a damn shop to pay $2000 for $40 in parts
 






Just go to the jy and grab all you need
 






pfft, i cant even get new, un-rusty fittings to unscrew from eachother. let alone x..,x.. mile rusty fittings. i cant even go there until saturday.
now another thing, stripped the bolt that holds the passenger line to the axle. cant get that out.

guess theres one good thing, i can unscrew all 4 bleeders with nothing getting stripped. :/
 






if your hard lines are still giving you crap, this is what i did on mine.
drivers side. didnt feel like making the screw holes line up, so i just welded it with a little tack.
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overall shot.
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i used two passenger side soft lines that go to the calipers and i put them on both sides which created a sealed brake line, i then cut into the hard line right on top of the diff and put in the factory style T fitting. then made my rear extended line fit like oem. took me about 2 hours including a trip to the parts store for more hard line.
and it didnt cost but 25 bucks, got everything except the hard line at the salvage.

EDIT: ignore the crappy hard line bends! hahahahah
 






good idea with the passenger line on the drivers side. i dont weld tho
ill just see what i can find. if i dont destroy every 2nd gens brake lines at the yard trying.... lol

ps, you bends look a little better then mine, i used a bender, but i just suck at it lol
ps, ps, since you went full manual..... $40 for your custom transfer case shifter? :)
 






good idea with the passenger line on the drivers side. i dont weld tho
ill just see what i can find. if i dont destroy every 2nd gens brake lines at the yard trying.... lol

ps, you bends look a little better then mine, i used a bender, but i just suck at it lol
ps, ps, since you went full manual..... $40 for your custom transfer case shifter? :)

what you can do is bring some wire cutters, dikes or something to the salvage and cut the hard line right before the soft line. then slip your boxed end wrench over the flare nut and take it off without damaging it.

i had a feeling somebody was going to ask about that sooner or later! :p:

im not sure just yet about selling it. it needs a new cable actually. gotta talk to my buddy Doug about that and ill shoot you a PM when i find out more.
 












works. it clunks really hard into gear in the opposite direction, ex in drive going into reverse. i made it chirp in the court down the street :D
and only thing is my brake pedal goes wayyyyy to the floor before it starts stopping. fluid is full, my mom helped bleed. when i unscrewed it 3 had fluid pour out, and the rear passenger has air bubbles the first 2 times.
pump until its hard, unscrew until pedal is at floor, rescrew bleeder, rinse and repeat? right?

2 other issues. ABS light is on. do i just need to put my old sensor in the diff(the 99 one is in there now)?
and CEL 41 for no apparent reason lol. ill reset and see if that helps

edit: abs problem solved. forgot to plug the wire into the master after switching it lol
 






Start at the rear pass and unscrew bleeder and pupmp the breaks 5_7 time with it uncrewed slowly.then hold breaks down and tightn the screw all wile running.and cough cough on the jy!!
 



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Do all 4 that way and make sure hose is submered.you bleed the mc?
 






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