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Xeek's '91

my white 1991 explorer xlt 4wd. bought it 3/19/2010. first vehicle ive ever owned.


3.19.2010 - starting out
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need to fix these
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things ive done:

5.1.2010
new rearview
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new cupholder
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5.4.2010
new fogs
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5.7.2010
new grill
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5.8.2010
painted headlightdoors black
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the starter also went out on me. truck is down for now



5.10.2010
out starter out. thanks jd
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new starter
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installed
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5.13.2010
painted grille black
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5.14.2010
brush guard/bull bar, also removed the valance. makes it look higher without it
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5.17.2010
best addition ever, explorerforum plate frames and a sticker
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5.18.2010
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6.4.2010
clear turns/corners and amber bulbs
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6.17.2010
replaced drivers door handle
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6.22.2010
replaced engine coolant temperature sensor (cel)
replaced temperature sending unit so my guage works now (need it in this heat)



6.24.2010
new KKM intake
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8.19.2010
train horns and flowmaster 50 suv kit(sounds a little to low but i still like it)

exhaust
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train horns
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^left compresser - right air valve
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sound clip. does no justice, much better in person
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=DSCN1434.mp4



10.11.2010
cherrybomb glasspack 18"
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11.07.2010
loud rattle i was hearing? heat sheild on top of the 2nd cat came off and wedged itself from falling.

also took the glasspack off, no muffler. pipe stops right before it would be at
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4



11.14.2010
gave myself an oil change. mobil 1 synthetic, k&n filter



11.22.2010-11.23.2010
ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:
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and the painted area behine the grille:
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i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner



11.24.2010-11.28.2010
bed lined front bumper, rear bumper+rear sides, grill, and re-added wal-mart lights.
took off the hitch that was attached the the bumper also.
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12.20.2010
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01.22.11 - clearance lights. LED, 13 per light, 65 total. very bright.
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3.27.2011
so after 3 months of the engine overhaul, its finally back in, finished, and fired up at 11.47pm! after fixing the inertia switch(oddly popped out), it fired right up, no problems!
link to build thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302553

video of its first start up




4.20.2011
2nd aux tranny cooler
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pcv filter.
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5.30.2011
'99 8.8, aussie, 3.73, soa
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9.4.11
non ac box conversion
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9.22.11
4" rough county lift and swap to 3.73 gears
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10.1.11
f150 tow hook
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10.9.11
15x8 creager soft 8s put on my 32x11.5 bfgs
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10.16.11
class V tow hitch
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12.31.11
drivers window motor damage. so nice to have a working window
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1.7.12
f150 seats to bring it to 5.5" lift
project #1 completed.
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4" + f150 seats + fa400 arm + unsettled suspension = this angle.
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1.7.12
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1.14.12
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can you make something to fit the slit, sacrifice and old screwdriver, heat it and bend it, grind to fit etc? Drive a pickle fork between the knuckle to put some pressure on it? Might jamb it enough to get the nut started. Or maybe cut the damn nut off.
 



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Great success!!
 

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im pretty sure my problem with the idle and major 'loping'(my cam isnt that extreme), and the fact that my gas gauge has never worked, makes me think i should just get a new pump/sender/float assembly.

recommended brands? im not paying $320 for motorcraft...

edit: is carter what ford used? i read a thread on here somewhere that motorcraft was carter rebranded. not sure what part it was
 






The floats rot and gas fills them. I yanked mine right away when I bought the ex and replaced it with an S-10 float which was a foam type deal.

If you are wondering about your fuel, throw a pressure gauge on and check it out.
 












Xeek,

Stay away from AutoZone/Advance branded Airtex pumps if you do replace your stuff. My truck eats them, usually just before the 1 year warranty. My local store quit warrantying them for me after the third one went... I've got a Bosch in there now and it seems to be doing okay.

Benjam :D
 






Xeek,

Stay away from AutoZone/Advance branded Airtex pumps if you do replace your stuff. My truck eats them, usually just before the 1 year warranty. My local store quit warrantying them for me after the third one went... I've got a Bosch in there now and it seems to be doing okay.

Benjam :D

Even though I don't have this issue (yet- knock on wood) this is good info to know.
 












lolol
good advise. i hate buying autozone crap. i try to get better brands. except for brake cleaner, autozone all that way!

im thinking either spectra or carter. but its not gonna be for awhile



anyways. anyone know what this bracket couldve been used for?? its not a trac bar or steering stabilizer. its only on the long side.
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edit: the one on the right, with the two holes in it
 


















i think its time to check my ujoints. turning, full lock not needed but atleast 75% the way there is needed. slower speeds. i hear popping, no idea if its the ujoints or maybe i broke the locker? i can still lock the locker tho.
 












Man i'm shire glad i'm not behind you when your pulling a trailer those welds are the worst welds I have ever seen. Leave the welding to the pro's. I am a certified welder and looks like your welds will break the first time you put any kind of load on it.. Please!!!!! Take it to a welding shop and have them fix it. It will be worth the money. I would hate to see you kill someone when they fail.. Their isn't no if's about it they will fail.. Other than that i like what you have done so fare to the truck..
nice first post man.
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#1, i didnt weld it, a friend did. hes not the best, but he also knows what my uses are for it, so it doesnt have to be made to support the 7500lb hitch capicity
#2, i do not tow anything
#3, its only there solely for a recovery point with a shackle hitch pin.
#4, if it breaks it wont come flying off either. its class 5 so theres two arms going further up the frame that are bolted on.

ive used it a few times, no movement on it like its breaking. its it breaks, oh well. thats why i have a giant shackle i can loop on the crossmember under the truck like i used to. or attach a strap to my hook on the front

thanks for the suggestion, but its fine for what its for. more then likely itll be cut off when i get around to custom bumpers anyway
 






nice first post man.
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#1, i didnt weld it, a friend did. hes not the best, but he also knows what my uses are for it, so it doesnt have to be made to support the 7500lb hitch capicity
#2, i do not tow anything
#3, its only there solely for a recovery point with a shackle hitch pin.
#4, if it breaks it wont come flying off either. its class 5 so theres two arms going further up the frame that are bolted on.

ive used it a few times, no movement on it like its breaking. its it breaks, oh well. thats why i have a giant shackle i can loop on the crossmember under the truck like i used to. or attach a strap to my hook on the front

thanks for the suggestion, but its fine for what its for. more then likely itll be cut off when i get around to custom bumpers anyway
hahah man hate to see what he says about my welding skills;)
Ps i wouldnt worry at all,welds crack first,not just spilt and fly off and like you said its bolted up farther;)
 






Man i'm shire glad i'm not behind you when your pulling a trailer those welds are the worst welds I have ever seen. Leave the welding to the pro's. I am a certified welder and looks like your welds will break the first time you put any kind of load on it.. Please!!!!! Take it to a welding shop and have them fix it. It will be worth the money. I would hate to see you kill someone when they fail.. Their isn't no if's about it they will fail.. Other than that i like what you have done so fare to the truck..

hey its the best i could be with a reconditioned welder thats about to fall to pieces. now if i had my miller 220 i could have done somthing.
 









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Xeek if you change fuel pump get a Carter assembly from Rockauto. I had my fuel pump replace last week. Shipped with a 5% discount it was like $110. My trusted mechanic told me that Carter is actually the manufacturer for the OEM.
 






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