Xeek's '91

my white 1991 explorer xlt 4wd. bought it 3/19/2010. first vehicle ive ever owned.


3.19.2010 - starting out

need to fix these

things ive done:

5.1.2010
new rearview

new cupholder

5.4.2010
new fogs

5.7.2010
new grill

5.8.2010
painted headlightdoors black

the starter also went out on me. truck is down for now



5.10.2010
out starter out. thanks jd

new starter

installed

5.13.2010
painted grille black

5.14.2010
brush guard/bull bar, also removed the valance. makes it look higher without it

5.17.2010
best addition ever, explorerforum plate frames and a sticker

5.18.2010

6.4.2010
clear turns/corners and amber bulbs

6.17.2010
replaced drivers door handle

6.22.2010
replaced engine coolant temperature sensor (cel)
replaced temperature sending unit so my guage works now (need it in this heat)



6.24.2010
new KKM intake

8.19.2010
train horns and flowmaster 50 suv kit(sounds a little to low but i still like it)

exhaust

train horns

^left compresser - right air valve

sound clip. does no justice, much better in person
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=DSCN1434.mp4



10.11.2010
cherrybomb glasspack 18"

11.07.2010
loud rattle i was hearing? heat sheild on top of the 2nd cat came off and wedged itself from falling.

also took the glasspack off, no muffler. pipe stops right before it would be at
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4



11.14.2010
gave myself an oil change. mobil 1 synthetic, k&n filter



11.22.2010-11.23.2010
ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:

and the painted area behine the grille:

i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner



11.24.2010-11.28.2010
bed lined front bumper, rear bumper+rear sides, grill, and re-added wal-mart lights.
took off the hitch that was attached the the bumper also.

12.20.2010

01.22.11 - clearance lights. LED, 13 per light, 65 total. very bright.

3.27.2011
so after 3 months of the engine overhaul, its finally back in, finished, and fired up at 11.47pm! after fixing the inertia switch(oddly popped out), it fired right up, no problems!
link to build thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302553

video of its first start up




4.20.2011
2nd aux tranny cooler

pcv filter.

5.30.2011
'99 8.8, aussie, 3.73, soa

9.4.11
non ac box conversion

9.22.11
4" rough county lift and swap to 3.73 gears

10.1.11
f150 tow hook

10.9.11
15x8 creager soft 8s put on my 32x11.5 bfgs

10.16.11
class V tow hitch

12.31.11
drivers window motor damage. so nice to have a working window

1.7.12
f150 seats to bring it to 5.5" lift
project #1 completed.

4" + f150 seats + fa400 arm + unsettled suspension = this angle.

1.7.12

1.14.12

 

[mr cribb]

That was awful nice of the noob to use his first post as a slam against the work that was done.

 

[Xeek]

so it turns out my alternator is the cause of the noise from hitting the water a few weeks ago. still dont have great compression on #2 and #6 for some reason, but atleast the noise wasnt the bottom end.

so that brings me to a replacement, 2nd gen alternator, 130amp. what 2nd gens had them? cause i can buy online either a 130 or a 95 for a 2nd gen. is there a marking on them that says 130 or 95?
and looking online. they look different.
2nd gen(97 ohc):

1st gen(91 ohv):

the electrical connections are in different places is my concern. and it looks like ones missing on the 2nd gen one

 

[jd4242]

so it turns out my alternator is the cause of the noise from hitting the water a few weeks ago. still dont have great compression on #2 and #6 for some reason, but atleast the noise wasnt the bottom end.

so that brings me to a replacement, 2nd gen alternator, 130amp. what 2nd gens had them? cause i can buy online either a 130 or a 95 for a 2nd gen. is there a marking on them that says 130 or 95?
and looking online. they look different.
2nd gen(97 ohc):

1st gen(91 ohv):

the electrical connections are in different places is my concern. and it looks like ones missing on the 2nd gen one

both the same,same amount and looks like type of conn.you forgot to mention the new rocker sound tho

 

[Xeek]

Nah. The bottom one has a white plastic connecter under the black one.
The top one from a 2nd gen doesn't have one at all unless its on the back where th post is on the 1st gen one.

Just need to check the junkyard and compare them. I just need to know if they have markings on them saysing 95 or 130. Since it seems they offered both.

And yea. According to dr 4.0 himself, cylinder #2 seems to have some rocker slap. I need to check that out sometime. #6 still has lifter tap, but its slowly getting better.

Think I'm gonna get another alt and take off the passenger valve cover next weekend.

 

[willindsay]

Why do you want to change to a 2nd gen Alt?

1st Gen Limiteds came stock with a 130amp Alt. If I'm remember correctly it's easy to distinguish the 130amps from the 95amps because the 130amps have 2 holes in a rectangle on the front case while the 95amp has 4 in a square. I can find pics if this doesn't make sense.

Edit: here's some pics.

95amp

130amp

 

[jd4242]

Nah. The bottom one has a white plastic connecter under the black one.
The top one from a 2nd gen doesn't have one at all unless its on the back where th post is on the 1st gen one.

Just need to check the junkyard and compare them. I just need to know if they have markings on them saysing 95 or 130. Since it seems they offered both.

And yea. According to mr 4.0himself, cylinder #2 seems to have some rocker slap. I need to check that out sometime. #6 still has lifter tap, but its slowly getting better.

Think I'm gonna get another alt and take off the passenger valve cover next weekend.

Thats DR. for you buddy!!

 

[Xeek]

Why do you want to change to a 2nd gen Alt?

1st Gen Limiteds came stock with a 130amp Alt. If I'm remember correctly it's easy to distinguish the 130amps from the 95amps because the 130amps have 2 holes in a rectangle on the front case while the 95amp has 4 in a square. I can find pics if this doesn't make sense.

Edit: here's some pics.

95amp

130amp

Cool. Thanks. I see what you mean in the pics. Just as long as they have all the correct connections
And I want to upgrade since I gotta get a new one anyway. I don't run a sound system or 20 lights so I don't see myself really needing a 220/250a one. Plus these are cheap and easy to find

Thats DR. for you buddy!!

Hahaha. I though of that after I posted. To lazy to edit!

 

[jd4242]

Cool. Thanks. I see what you mean in the pics. Just as long as they have all the correct connections
And I want to upgrade since I gotta get a new one anyway. I don't run a sound system or 20 lights so I don't see myself really needing a 220/250a one. Plus these are cheap and easy to find



Hahaha. I though of that after I posted. To lazy to edit!

Haha would have been a funny pic.my bald ass head in your fenderwell with an automotive stethoscope to the block!!lol

 

[Anime]

I would be careful with those cheap alternators. I have bought electrical parts online that were supposedly Motorcraft, and received cheap aftermarket instead. They all seem to be made by a company in China, and though they are marketed under different names/brands, all come in a WPS "World Power Systems" box. The local alternator/starter shops seem to deal in them exclusively as well. I also say be careful because I wound up with one, of the 130A variety, after the shop cracked my stock alternator (deliberately, I might add) when I brought it in for a rebuild (oops, it's got a crack in it, see? You'll need to buy a new one...). While it's okay, it's nowhere near as solid amp-wise as even the stock 95A was (which I now would rather have). It might put out ~100something amps with the smaller pulley it comes with (I had the stock pulley put back on to use the stock size belt) and at higher RPMs, but I don't think it's even close to a real Motorcraft 130A 3G. If you do go aftermarket, I'd suggest swapping over the Motorcraft voltage regulator, at least. Really, I'd say unless you KNOW you are getting a deal on a real Motorcraft part, save your money and either get something else brand-name, even a rebuild. If you want cheap, Rockauto has some that are very inexpensive.

 

[Xeek]

Noo. I meant cheap as in a stock motorcraft 130 from the junkyard, only $40 I think. Not cheap ebay china crap ones.

 

[Anime]

That's good then.

As far as I have seen, the 130A 3G from 95-97 Explorers is the exact same as the one for the 91-94, it looks like the pics you posted are of the 95A from a much newer model.

It'd be nice to be able to pull one yourself and get one from a vehicle with really low miles. The brushes and contacts only last about 250,000 miles, but even if you only get 100,000 miles out of it, it'd be worth 40 bucks. I'd get one if I could.

I would say keep your old 95A as a backup if it's still working good. If it's getting flaky and the dash lights are pulsing slightly, you can make it last (until the contacts go out) with a less worn brush set, even one with the voltage regulator from another 3G. It can be a real lifesaver to have a backup to throw on, especially if it's your primary or only vehicle.

 

[Xeek]

yea, mine still works. i cant vouch for flashing my lights or anything as after i got submerged i went right home and havent driven it to notice anything.
its charging correctly, just the bearings are toast, sounds horrible, but works still.
ill deff consider it as a backup tho.

now i just gotta wait til next weekend to get one cause i work all day haha

 

[Anime]

Going by Rockauto's catalog, it seems the newer '97 alternator you pictured is from the SOHC 4.0L. The '97 OHV 4.0L has a much more similar 3G. It's ever so slightly different, but is similar enough that lots of the aftermarket and rebuilts have the same part # for the 130A 3G both for a 91-94 and 95-97.

As for which ones had them, probably the same as the first gen, the limiteds and Eddie Bauers. Hit or miss on which XLTs would or wouldn't have them, I'm sure the ones with the full JBL/Mach system and air/cruise/etc. did, but they don't keep track of that at used car places. Best bet is buy it as a 130A 3G if they indicate it, or use the pictures and info in the thread to call and ask about what it looks like before buying.

 

[Xeek]

well i got one out of a '00 sohc yesterday. it didnt have those two holes as willindsay mentioned. just had one and then the ovals, but it was still 130a. there was 2 more i think and the rest were all 95a.
autozones test resulted in a big fat fail. so i guess is get to go try another one. dont think itll do any good until they get a new truck in tho, this one got there on the 20th and already got rained on

 

[jd4242]

Rain shouldnt hurt them

 

[Xeek]

Dunno then. Engine looked fine. I guess it would be my luck to get an alt from a truck that was sent there with a bad alt/chargin problems.
And stupid me, I only brought tools to take an alt off, so I had to find a piece of glass to cut the belt off haha

 

[DUNE RCR]

Nah. The bottom one has a white plastic connecter under the black one.
The top one from a 2nd gen doesn't have one at all unless its on the back where th post is on the 1st gen one.

Just need to check the junkyard and compare them. I just need to know if they have markings on them saysing 95 or 130. Since it seems they offered both.

And yea. According to dr 4.0 himself, cylinder #2 seems to have some rocker slap. I need to check that out sometime. #6 still has lifter tap, but its slowly getting better.

Think I'm gonna get another alt and take off the passenger valve cover next weekend.

Hey not sure if you got your alternator yet but there is a place on independence over by the amphibious base called brownings where you can get an upgraded alternator for a decent price. I have a 200amp in my 99 for around 180 if I remember correctly and it was cool watching them make it right in front of me too, took about an hour. I've had it in for a couple years now with no problems.

 

[DUNE RCR]

Hey not sure if you got your alternator yet but there is a place on independence over by the amphibious base called brownings where you can get an upgraded alternator for a decent price. I have a 200amp in my 99 for around 180 if I remember correctly and it was cool watching them make it right in front of me too, took about an hour. I've had it in for a couple years now with no problems.

Ok so yeah I was just reading some of the previous posts.....probably should do that before I say anything. I guess just keep Brownings in mind if you have any charging problems. Reason I changed mine was I found out I had bad diodes in the 130a alt that I had(original replacement x6, I tried pepboys, autozone and advance auto.) Anyways hope the 130a alt works out for you.

 

[Xeek]

Well alt #2 failed. Ran it tiwce and it didn't work, I know them a that store well and had one of the smartones test it, but still wanted another stores results just incase. Went to another place with two mentally challenged guys there and a broken tester, so I left. Went to a third place and he took about 30mins and asking his manager muktiple times just how to connect it. Proceeded to leave it on the v-belt, so I quietly stood there laughing on the inside at him. Failed before it even spun.

So thanks for your old one jd. Putting it in today unless I pull the valve cover first.
Hahaha

 

[Xeek]

nothing much going on. stole jds old alternator. screw the junkyard and the retards at auto chain stores that cant figure out howto test one.
opened my valve cover to check out my 'rocker slap'

the one im pointing at i can tilt back just a tinnyyyyy bit(towards the pushrod side) and let go and itll ping againts the valve. its only a hair and only with the valve closed.


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