Xeek's '91 | Page 37 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Xeek's '91

i have no idea. they were just gone. the one that was left was loose. and the two underneath(not the visible ones) were loose.

monday my upper radiator hose blew off and i lost 1.5g of coolant. stopped at a random house and a 70yd old drunk black lady kept touching all on me while me and her son filled me back up with water lolol -_-

i know ther could be a joke in in there, but i will digress ,all those bolts is the main reason i decided to go long arms setup, way to many things to go wrong
 



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:-) Morning !! U Didn't Have To Paint The Headlight Frame & Grill Because U Can Get New Ones From The LMC Truck Online Or In A Parts Catolog For The 91-2001 EXplorer !! U Can Get A Fan & Temp. Control Relay For It Too !! Have A Blessed Day !! :-)
Very Sincerely Yours,
:-) Carl P. Schnibbe :-)

Please edit picture links from your quotes in the future. Thanks! Post edited and thread cleaned up. Some posts were deleted purely to stay on track, no offense.


Carl,

You are an old member, but this second post does read suspicious. Are you employed by LMC truck?
 






He's spamming people now through private messages; that's how I found this. If it wasn't a spammer account in 2011, it sure is now. Duly reported.
 






im scrapping the narrow low pinion d44 idea. no longer gonna happen.


instead im going this route. :)
IMG_20120730_092307.jpg

(the 94 ranger someone put it under. horrible welding, looked unsafe. welded everywhere making it a pain in the ass to get it out.
the WMS lined right up to the edge of the rangers fender. fullwidth is gonna look so nice :)

IMG_20120730_173019.jpg

fullwidth d44 with welded wedgies. im guessing 78-79 f150? axle tag says 3.50 gears. but ill open it up and look later
 






I don't like the look of full width and even more illegal .
 












drivers side hub is gutted, guess they broke it at some point. cant get the passenger one off to check that one, stuck cap bolt didnt have enough battery power to drill the screw out. i found out its got 3.50 gears (42r/12p) and its an open. that fluid was nasty! brown, chunky, some sand grit, dirt, whatever it was!
 






DO you, by any chance, have a pink camera? :p:

DSCN1232.jpg



How did you change out the cold air intake using the same stock hose. I am stuck and need your help what did you with your vacuum hoses?
 
























so the motor came out
IMG_20121013_124824.jpg

IMG_20121013_150138.jpg


after a week of having no motor my front axle slowly gave me like 4" more lift lol
IMG_20121019_175100.jpg


8.8 came out
IMG_20121019_175130.jpg



i felt unsafe with having the front ant rear on stands in a sloping driveway. so i set the springs down on the tires
IMG_20121023_175832.jpg


then started focusing on the front..
IMG_20121023_182303.jpg



rolled the d44 in its place. now the rest of the fun begins..
IMG_20121025_175037.jpg

IMG_20121025_175213.jpg




and this is a rough idea of the 37s
IMG_20121016_182216.jpg
 






37's seem a bit big unless you're planning on a 5.5-6" lift with a body lift as well and 5.13 gears.

33-35's and 4.56's would be a lot easier to pull off.

Whatever you do though, watch it with the sloped driveway for sure.

Even with those tires under the leaf springs, it could still slide back and crash the front end down.

The jackstands are the main safety issue, they only handle so much weight on the wide side before they tip, and the slope of the driveway along with the lower rear is making it so they're already partway there. Be really careful when you're under this thing if those stands are all that's holding it up.

I'd say throw in the rear axle and have some tires with wheel chocks under it before you start doing the front end fabrication.
 






well the plan is 8" springs plus soa with 4" superlifts in the back. more then likely have to add a body lift also. i wont know until i get there

i plan on slightly slightly lower then 5.13 ;)

about the stands, i added ratchet straps around the springs woven into my wheels to keep them tied to it the best i could. im still being careful about everything.
i was planning on putting the rangers 8.8 under it but the new one for the ranger isnt finished yet. so i just plopped it down.
the rangers new axle is the exploders old axle. so thats why i needed it out lol
 






Fake Differential cover

yea 60% of everything has turned orange now from the beach. the other 40% was covered in mud/grime/dirt/grease so it wasnt exposed to the sand.

im pretty much done. just have the drivers side axle/arm/crossmember to paint.
i have some white paint left to, im debating adding some white in there. i was thinking radius arms and obviously calipers since i did the rear ones.
for anybody that doesnt rememebr the rear, this is why i want some white in there:
132_1674.jpg



or making a false diff cover out of paint?.. like so:
Untitled-1-102.jpg


How did you make your fake cover just with paint no add on right?

pretty sure my front shocks are gonna be white, theyre pro comps. so ill paint my stock rear shocks white also
 












i think i like this. except do not sure burgundy rust primer to spot treat first. use white primer on white fenders... or youll get dark spots :(
ill prob redo it at some point, i dont care really. rest of the truck will be started on hopefully before summer ends so it can bake in the sun

IMG_20130212_125543_zps2c2b3741.jpg


ps, i dont care that the moulding tape is still there, im painting the truck for a cheap job made to be beat up on trails. buy a rattle can and fix any bad spots after wheelin
 



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