chron_bon
New Member
- Joined
- January 20, 2019
- Messages
- 8
- Reaction score
- 8
- City, State
- Vancouver
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1993, XL 4 Dr 4x4 315k km
Hi all,
I've been reading a lot of threads here and found some good info about getting the stuck bolts out but I'm wondering if anybody could provide me some input on my situation. I'm doing this on a 1993 4dr 4wd XL.
The ultimate goal is to get the transmission out for a slave cylinder replacement (and clutch/flywheel when I have it out).
I got both the drivers side bolts out relatively easily. Sprayed both sides with Liquid Wrench penetrating oil and let it sit for 5 days then came back to try to get them off. Driver side wasn't much of a hassle, got them both with a 2ft breaker bar and a 20" extension, took about 20 minutes. Passenger side is a whole other story. I've been going at them for 2 days now with the breaker bar and extension and I feel one of them starting to round off so I'm looking for some advice before I destroy the head of the bolts before they come out.
I've tried spraying a lot more penetrating oil and letting it sit, hitting them with a hammer, and heating with a propane torch. I'm not 100% sure they're getting hot enough though.
My questions are this:
1) How hot should I get the manifold near the bolts when heating them with the torch? So far I've been going at it for about 5 minutes with the torch then trying to crack the bolts. I am unsure if this is sufficient.
2) I have an impact that's only 350ft-lbs but can borrow an air powered one but I'm not sure what the torque spec is (the air compressor I believe goes to 100 or 150 pounds). Am I best sticking to my breaker bar or going for the impact? I'm worried the impact doesn't have enough torque and will ruin the bolt heads.
3) I noticed that the two bolts are not threaded in a similar amount. The one nearest to the passenger wheel well goes about 1/2"+ past the end of the manifold whereas the one nearest the engine about 1/8" I'm wondering if whoever installed them last cranked the outermost then the innermost (could be wrong and this is just how they go in normally). I'm thinking that'll make the outermost harder to get, should I focus on the innermost first? Not sure if this is significant but I'm looking for anything that can help.
4) Is cutting the y pipe under the transmission near where the two sides meet then removing the driver side half a reasonable solution? I can't weld it back myself so I would need to find someone who I can pay to come out a weld it back. Any estimates on what that would cost in Canada BC? Are there any options for getting a proper seal if the pipe were cut aside from welding it back?
5) If this goes **** up, how would you cut the bolts? Looks like I can get a sawsall to the one on the wheel well side but what about the other one? This is something I would really like to avoid.
6) Stock height and I don't have a lift, so I believe from my readings on this forum getting the y pipe our from underneath the transmission is my only option. This correct?
Any advice is appreciated.
I've been reading a lot of threads here and found some good info about getting the stuck bolts out but I'm wondering if anybody could provide me some input on my situation. I'm doing this on a 1993 4dr 4wd XL.
The ultimate goal is to get the transmission out for a slave cylinder replacement (and clutch/flywheel when I have it out).
I got both the drivers side bolts out relatively easily. Sprayed both sides with Liquid Wrench penetrating oil and let it sit for 5 days then came back to try to get them off. Driver side wasn't much of a hassle, got them both with a 2ft breaker bar and a 20" extension, took about 20 minutes. Passenger side is a whole other story. I've been going at them for 2 days now with the breaker bar and extension and I feel one of them starting to round off so I'm looking for some advice before I destroy the head of the bolts before they come out.
I've tried spraying a lot more penetrating oil and letting it sit, hitting them with a hammer, and heating with a propane torch. I'm not 100% sure they're getting hot enough though.
My questions are this:
1) How hot should I get the manifold near the bolts when heating them with the torch? So far I've been going at it for about 5 minutes with the torch then trying to crack the bolts. I am unsure if this is sufficient.
2) I have an impact that's only 350ft-lbs but can borrow an air powered one but I'm not sure what the torque spec is (the air compressor I believe goes to 100 or 150 pounds). Am I best sticking to my breaker bar or going for the impact? I'm worried the impact doesn't have enough torque and will ruin the bolt heads.
3) I noticed that the two bolts are not threaded in a similar amount. The one nearest to the passenger wheel well goes about 1/2"+ past the end of the manifold whereas the one nearest the engine about 1/8" I'm wondering if whoever installed them last cranked the outermost then the innermost (could be wrong and this is just how they go in normally). I'm thinking that'll make the outermost harder to get, should I focus on the innermost first? Not sure if this is significant but I'm looking for anything that can help.
4) Is cutting the y pipe under the transmission near where the two sides meet then removing the driver side half a reasonable solution? I can't weld it back myself so I would need to find someone who I can pay to come out a weld it back. Any estimates on what that would cost in Canada BC? Are there any options for getting a proper seal if the pipe were cut aside from welding it back?
5) If this goes **** up, how would you cut the bolts? Looks like I can get a sawsall to the one on the wheel well side but what about the other one? This is something I would really like to avoid.
6) Stock height and I don't have a lift, so I believe from my readings on this forum getting the y pipe our from underneath the transmission is my only option. This correct?
Any advice is appreciated.