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Yet another..

PNWEx

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 17, 2023
Messages
119
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41
Location
OR
City, State
Portland,Or
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Explorer Limited 4x4
214 code thread..

If you are still reading let me say "thank you."..So, long story short I bought a 1994 Explorer limited 4x4 a few months back...50 miles in starting running crappy sometimes i.e. bogging down, low idle, then came the CEL. Scanned it with the ODB1 scan tool from innova and during the continuous memory test I received the dreaded 214. KOER Test showed only 4 cylinders. But then gave the 111 all good code. I went back and looked thru some papers the man gave me with the truck and sure enough on a little scrap of paper stapled to a receipt was a note that said 214 code and the receipt was for an icm and crankshaft sensor.

If you're still reading this you are a saint.

I'm going to go to the pick n pull and grab a pcm if they have one this week and try that. But after pulling some rather interesting maneuvers I got my phone to see the old window style syncs surrounded by oil. So I'm fairly certain it's the whole sync. I'm pretty mechanically inclined..(I'm a union ironworker) but not savvy at all when it comes to the timing part of this procedure. I have the haynes manual and I have read 100 or so threads on here. And still have not read anything that makes me have any confidence in my ability to do the timing of this correctly.

My question I guess essentially is there a fool proof way to check your work before reinstalling the upper intake and egr? Or do you have to put it all together to realize you really messed up?

Also, this is my last resort I literally called every mechanic in the Portland OR area and only three places would even touch it. One guy told me it would take three hours to remove the upper intake and that he charges 200 an hour. Another one said they'd look at it in a month. The last guy said he'd call me tomorrow. I'm a working man with a family cant wait a month for my rig and cant afford to be taken advantage of. So any help will be appreciated. Thanks for reading this.
 



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And no, it doesn't take three hours to remove the upper intake. Try one hour if you've never don it before.
 






M is th
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My sync doesn't look like that. It's the old glass window style. I have a haynes manual. Taking it out isn't the problem. The problem is knowing the ins and outs of syncing the sync. Like the tbc of compression and then 26 degrees past check with voltmeter. I've never done anything close
Yah
And no, it doesn't take three hours to remove the upper intake. Try one hour if you've never don it before

Yeah I think he could sense the desperation in my voice and thought he had a sucker on the hook.
 






Why mess with camshaft sensor when The code points to the crankshaft position sensor?

Try cleaning it and maybe reseat the connector.

Also, check the small wiring harness to it
 






Why mess with camshaft sensor when The code points to the crankshaft position sensor?

Try cleaning it and maybe reseat the connector.

Also, check the small wiring harness to it
Because in my 94 it has the sight glass style sync you cant just replace the sensor. The code points to the entire circuit. Also the wet oil around the sensor.
 












Wrong sensor. Ignore the cam sensor synch unit for now.

You need to check the crankshaft sensor. It's down near the main crank pulley.
Already been replaced.
 












Dont let the upper intake removal intimidate you.

If you do need to replace the cam synch unit.

Take pictures, use labeled baggies for bolts. The egr tube might give you some trouble, but honestly my wife could probably do it. Just be sure to have all needed gaskets, and take your time.
 






Just because something was replaced, doesn’t mean it’s good.
 






M is th

Yah


Yeah I think he could sense the desperation in my voice and thought he had a sucker on the hook.
oop, sorry haha i have the 2nd gen manual thats right this is 1st gen :banghead:
 






Dont let the upper intake removal intimidate you.

If you do need to replace the cam synch unit.

Take pictures, use labeled baggies for bolts. The egr tube might give you some trouble, but honestly my wife could probably do it. Just be sure to have all needed gaskets, and take your time.
More intimidated by the rotating the crankshaft and testing the sensor.
 






Just because something was replaced, doesn’t mean it’s good.
Very true. I'm going to get a cheap voltmeter tomorrow and test the sensors and see whats what.
 






The three hours to remove upper intake thing sounds like the geniuses that got you OTP were thinking of the 2nd gen setup. (Not entirely inaccurate, either... lol)
I'm also thinking it has to be one of those two sensors. I hope your volunteer makes this job nice and easy, and I hope it solves your issues
 






Yeah me too. In the Haynes manual it says to check the CKP by testing any wire on the sensor and it should read 1.5 volts. And then the CMP should have battery voltage with the KOEO. But I'll just take it step by step with the book and see where that leads.
 






UPDATE.....So as soon as I got off of work, I ran up to the hardware store bought a cheap voltmeter to test the ckp. Read the haynes manual which states to disconnect the ckp turn key on and test for 1.5 volts on any wire. I took the connector off and put my positive probe into the connect and touched the negative to the frame and boom 1.5 volts. Then I switched to AC as the manual states, unhooked the inertia switch, backprobed the connection while my wife turned the engine over to check for "pulsing voltage". And I came up with all zeros. Pretty sure i did everything right so I think it may be the CKP. Does this sound right to you more experienced guys?
 






Pretty sure I'm doing something wrong I'm getting no pulse in voltage anywhere the manual tells my I should. I am in DC just like the book says. I think I maybe putting the probes in the wrong place. Can anyone clear up what exactly I am supposed to do. For a complete stop by step these murals sure are vague. However everything is getting battery voltage.
 









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I have no experience with a volt meter or anything related to it. So I'm wondering if anyone out there could help me out. Trying to trouble shoot my 214 code. I have a Haynes manual but it's pretty vauge. To test the ckp it says to disconnect, turn key on and test for voltage of 1.5. I did this by touching my positive probe to the connector and the ground probe to the frame. Then it say to check connector while turning the engine over and turning your voltmeter to ac and check for pulsing voltage as you crank the engine

How do you do this if the connector is hooked up? Do I back probe the positive into either wire and the negative to the frame? When I tried that nothing happened. I dont know if I am doing this correctly.

When I tested the crank sync it had battery voltage but when I turned the engine over backprobed into the signal slot and negative on the ground in the engine bay the voltage jumped all over but was never 5 like the manual states....please help!!
 






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