yey!! im done 91 explorer on full widths done....

k guys here how it went.....


front end:
hp dana 44 (from 79 f150)
rear 4 in lift springs from the f150, but we took out 2 leafs...
used steering from the f150
moved the axle forward 3 inches...

rear end:
ford 9in from same truck
moved the axle back 3 inches...


it turned out real good, all we need to do is get driveshafts which will be done tomorow....

will post pics tomorow when i drive it home

 

[91xon35s]

k i had a lil accident with the welder, dumbass me thought i could go for 30 min without the mask, im sittin in my room rubbing some kind of goo on my eyes now taht the hospital gave me, so tomorow i will be boxing the hangers.

mudbug- yea the fender is a hell of a chop job, but it was already screwed up from the last wheelin trip, i will be cleanin it up soon enough.

snoborder- this is what i was thinkin for a shock hoop/mount

http://www.xterraownersclub.com/reviews/images/sas/hoop.jpg


somthin like that so i can get it up real high in my fender, think it would work?>

 

[sn0border88]

It would be a waste of time im to build something like tat on your own. Just go to the dealer, but the mount, weld it on and call it good. It will give you all the shock travel you need, I have the longes travel shocks they make and those are the mounts im using.

 

[91xon35s]

how much are those shockmounts about for the superduty???? cause the shock hoops can be made in 20 min for about 20 bucks....but i do like how the superduty ones look.

i think next on the agenda is to just stick it out and get that front driveshaft built, then weld the spider gears together.....should i run 4.88 gears or 5.12???

 

[sn0border88]

I already said the superduty shock mounts are about $50 for the pair.

Make a square tube driveshaft using 2" 1/4 wall and 2.5" 1/4 wall square tubing. Or if your local metal supply has some use 2.5" 1/4 wall reciecver tube, it has no weld seam on it so you dont ahve to notch the 2"

The stock driveshafts ends fit perfectly on the ends of the square.

Definatly 5.13 gears.

 

[91xon35s]

i like the idea of a square driveshaft, how much overlap should be in it?>

 

[sn0border88]

you would have to measure it, mine was about 18" of 2" 22 of 2.5"

 

[91xon35s]

could you post a pic of it just to see how it looks....thanks

 

[sn0border88]

best I can do. Just measure the length from yoke to yoke, subtract the length of the 2 ends and you have the static length. Split it in half and add 6-8" as long as you have around 6" of travel before it compresses.


Maybe thats to hard to understand, you just need to figure out how much the driveshaft is going to compress at full driverside stuff. Once you know that, make your pieces that long or subtract an ince or two for ***** and giggles. ANd to make sure you didnt measure to little.


Once you have the pieces you will need to grind a notch the full length of the 2" tube to clear the weld seam in the 2.5" piece.

 

[FROADER]

Here is another example.

 

[91xon35s]

se i was thinkin one like froaders taht moves instead of fully welded, snoborder it looks like its fully welded in the pic but its hard to tell, thanks guys i will go and look into all this

 

[FROADER]

I think sn0border's is the same, you just can't see it in his pic.

 

[sn0border88]

mine isnt welded, thats why I told you you needed 2 pieces so they can compress and extend. Its looks exactly the same as the second pic.

 

[91xon35s]

alright yea thats what i thought, yea i really like this idea, im gonna go pic up my front driveshaft that was in the truck so i can take the end piece off and do it... do you guys got any other ideas that i can do on this truck, not only drivetrain wise but anything on the truck at all like for holding tools or an onboard welder, let me know any ideas you got cause im in the mood to try a few out