Yostyexplorer94's 1994 Explorer Registry | Page 8 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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Yostyexplorer94's 1994 Explorer Registry

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I got this explorer back in 2004 when I was 15 from my mom. It had a blown transmission that I had to get replaced. Since then I have modified it. The only bolts I haven't turned would be on the original motor.

This picture was taken when I spend most of my day washing and waxing it with McGuire's 3 step wax system.... boy did it shine!

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Stock sized BF Goodrich All Terrains & a brush guard from a 1998 - 2000 Ford Ranger

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3" body lift and a home built bumper

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New BF Goodrich 33"x10.5-r15's

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Put bigger tires on it (35" Super Swampers LTB's)

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A broken front axle shaft resulted in a solid axle swap. Click here for the Solid Axle Swap build thread!
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Changed my grill to a ranger one!

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37" tires, rock sliders, and a winch

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1994 Ford Explorer Specs
  • 1979 f150 Dana 44 Front Axle
  • 1989 F150 Ford 8.8 Rear Axle
  • 1991-1994 Ford Explorer Front Driveshaft (Front & Rear)
  • Behemoth Drivetrain 1354 Doubler
  • 1990 Ford Econoline E-150 Saginaw Power Steering Pump
    • Yost Offroad Bracket
    • 1990 Ford Econoline E-150 High Pressure Line
    • 1994 Ford Explorer Return Line
  • 3g Ford Alternator
    • Front Bearing 6303 RS
    • Rear Bearing 6000-2RS
  • Speedometer Cable – Ford Aerostar - Atp part # y-869 speedo cable
  • Steering Fix Bushing – JCRoffroad.com Part # PLYBSH
  • Ruff stuff bushings: DAY MO2153 1.5"od x 3/4"id
  • Tie Rod End Part # ES2233L, ES2234R, ES2234R, ES2027L
  • Body mounts
    • Rad support:
    • A pillar:
    • B pillar:
    • C pillar: energy susp. 9.4104G
    • Rear: energy susp. 9.4104G
  • Brakes
    • Front
      • 1979 f150 factory brake setup
      • Factory 1979 brake caliper hoses
      • Frame to axle hose
        • 1979 f150 rear hose
    • Rear
      • 1989 f150 factory brake setup
      • Frame to axle hose
        • 1979 f150 rear hose
  • Parking Brake Part #’s
    • Intermediate Cable # 1994 explorer drivers side rear
    • Driver Side Cable # 1989 F150 drivers side rear
    • Passenger Side Cable # 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee passenger rear
  • Factory explorer main leaf bastard packed on rear
    • Front spring eye bushing RB-159
    • Rear spring eye bushing RB-131
  • Rear homemade below the frame mount shackle hanger
    • Bushing m02240
  • Shocks
    • Front Part #
      • Monroe 34687
        • Compressed 18"
        • Extended 31"
    • Rear Part #
      • Monroe 34672
        • Compressed 14.25"
        • Extended 23"
  • Manifold/Header bolt is 8mmX1.25 thread (Both Sides)
    • 75mm / Quantity: 8
    • 45mm / Quantity: 4
  • Y pipe to the manifold is 12mmx1.75 thread (Both Sides)
    • 50mm / Quantity: 4
  • M5OD Bellhousing Bolts
    • These are grade 10.9 bolts
      • top four bolts : 10-1.5x60mm
      • middle two bolts : 10-1.5x70mm
      • bottom two bolts: 10-1.5x75mm
  • Thermostat housing bolts
    • 6mm x 1.00
  • The part numbers for the metal plugs are Dana #219-3052 or Dorman #555-108 and as was mentioned you need three plugs to do the job.
  • 5-760 Joint full circle snap ring lot # 123050a item # dsh-30stpa
  • Winch rope retainer bolt
    • M6x1.0
    • Length 1.2mm
    • 4mm hex key head
 


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Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




yostyexplorer94

Yost Offroad
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City, State
South Central PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer
Callsign
yosty
In preparation for the Black Mountain trip, My friend Jay bent me some slider extensions.

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I made a "mount" for my spare tire which worked extremely well.

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I needed to recess the hitch so the winch was as close to the bumper as possible and also needed to move the bumper up.

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I believe this is rebuild version #4 of this bumper

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I needed a way to cheaply and easily cover my tires to keep the law at bay.

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Harlan Kentucky trip here
 












yostyexplorer94

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1994 Explorer
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yosty
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I bought a driveshaft from adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com. I fit perfectly.
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I bought some worn 37's to try out for cheap.
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35" worn-out ltb's and 15x8 steel wheels weigh 88 lbs.
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37x12.50r17 on steel wheels weigh 104 lbs.
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yostyexplorer94

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I love it so far. Drives much better on the road with 5.13 gears. Jack tried to sell me his 38.5's and I almost gave into temptation.
 




yostyexplorer94

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Doubler is out. It still works as it should but I am getting fine metal particles on the magnet and the shifter is sloppy.
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yostyexplorer94

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1994 Explorer
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Doubler is sealed up tight and back in. I took advantage of broncograveyard.com's november 10% off sale.
I bought yukon axles with spicer joints and inner axle seals. I already have new ball joints, wild horse spindle bushings, and stage 8 spindle nuts waiting to be installed.
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yostyexplorer94

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I cut an access hole into the floor so I can get at the fuel pump without dropping the tank.
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I cut more than this out but forgot to take a final picture.

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Four0Sport

Jack Pewe
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I cut an access hole into the floor so I can get at the fuel pump without dropping the tank.

I cut more than this out but forgot to take a final picture.

I did the same last year. Covered the hole with 1/4" rubber. I cut way way too much out though, almost double what I needed.
 




gmanpaint

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Clean cuts!

With the pump under, and the double layers of sheet metal, my cuts don't look as Purdy as yours. Lol

A member called me lazy for doing that, but obviously has no clue what it would be like, to have a pump fail on a trail.
 




Four0Sport

Jack Pewe
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I tried to avoid cutting the floor so I dropped the tank when replacing the sender. Lines on top of the sender were rusted through. A few months later I had a no start concern and instead of dropping the tank again I just cut an access panel. Problem was not the pump, but it is there for next time.
 




yostyexplorer94

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Clean cuts!

With the pump under, and the double layers of sheet metal, my cuts don't look as Purdy as yours. Lol

A member called me lazy for doing that, but obviously has no clue what it would be like, to have a pump fail on a trail.

I drilled 1/4" holes at the corners and used a reciprocating saw. I was surprised myself how clean it came out. I had the urge to use the plasma on it, but my better judgement told me otherwise.
It seems kind of foolish to call you lazy for doing something automotive manufactures should design into all vehicles!

I tried to avoid cutting the floor so I dropped the tank when replacing the sender. Lines on top of the sender were rusted through. A few months later I had a no start concern and instead of dropping the tank again I just cut an access panel. Problem was not the pump, but it is there for next time.

I thought about using rubber but ended up going with a piece of sheet steel. I have been wanting to cut this out for a long time now, so I figured I would do it before I regret not!
 




yostyexplorer94

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Full axle freshen up
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It's cold out so bring your tires indoors
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37x12.50r17 cooper stt pro vs low tread 35x12.50-15 Ltb
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I mounted the tires myself because I am cheap af. I used air soft bb's to balance.
 








yostyexplorer94

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I decided it was time to build a roll cage
Link is here
Roll Cage Build Thread

Appalachian adventure 2018

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yostyexplorer94

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Rear brake line blew out at the gas tank while winching the neighbor's rv. Thankfully I was anchored to a tree
"trail fix"
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I found my fuel pump/rear abs wiring was laying at the bottom of my frame rail, creating a pocket for dirt and road salt. Easily rotted my not very old brake line.

I removed the wiring and depinned the abs wires because i eliminated abs when I did the solid axle swap

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I reran the wiring on the cab and made zip tie mounts to keep out of harms way and from collecting debris

Also ran the new brake line up high with the fuel lines

My frame is really rusty in that area now. Live and learn.

I bought fluid film rust prevention spray to under coat it someday. I have been using that stuff on my diesel truck and it works really well
 




yostyexplorer94

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707
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City, State
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer
Callsign
yosty
My exhaust tail pipe has a hole in it too. Walker exhaust pipes last me about 2 to 3 years before they rot apart. I have to modify the pipe to fit because of my antiwrap bar.
 


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