Yostyexplorer94's 1994 Explorer Registry

I got this explorer back in 2004 when I was 15 from my mom. It had a blown transmission that I had to get replaced. Since then I have modified it. The only bolts I haven't turned would be on the original motor.

This picture was taken when I spend most of my day washing and waxing it with McGuire's 3 step wax system.... boy did it shine!

Stock sized BF Goodrich All Terrains & a brush guard from a 1998 - 2000 Ford Ranger

3" body lift and a home built bumper

New BF Goodrich 33"x10.5-r15's

Put bigger tires on it (35" Super Swampers LTB's)

A broken front axle shaft resulted in a solid axle swap. Click here for the Solid Axle Swap build thread!

Changed my grill to a ranger one!

37" tires, rock sliders, and a winch

1994 Ford Explorer Specs

• 1979 f150 Dana 44 Front Axle
• 1989 F150 Ford 8.8 Rear Axle
• Wheels & Tires
  • Dirty Life Canyon Race Matte Black
    • First torque 10 - 14 ft lbs
    • Final torque 18 - 24 ft lbs
  • Cooper STT Pro 37x12.50r17
    • 12oz Airsoft BBs each
• 1991-1994 Ford Explorer Front Driveshaft (Front & Rear)
  • Front: explorer front lengthed. Double cardan (non greasable) centering ball spicer 10018440
  • Rear: adams driveshaft 1310 joints. Double cardan centering ball (greasable) spicer 10018465
• Behemoth Drivetrain 1354 Doubler
• 1990 Ford Econoline E-150 Saginaw Power Steering Pump
  • Yost Offroad Bracket
  • 1990 Ford Econoline E-150 High Pressure Line
  • 1994 Ford Explorer Return Line
• 3g Ford Alternator
  • Front Bearing 6303 RS
  • Rear Bearing 6000-2RS
• Speedometer Cable – Ford Aerostar - Atp part # y-869 speedo cable
• Steering Fix Bushing – JCRoffroad.com Part # PLYBSH
• Ruff stuff bushings: DAY MO2153 1.5"od x 3/4"id
• Tie Rod End Part # ES2233L, ES2234R, ES2234R, ES2027L
• Body mounts
  • Rad support:
  • A pillar:
  • B pillar:
  • C pillar: energy susp. 9.4104G
  • Rear: energy susp. 9.4104G
• Brakes
  • Front
    • 1979 f150 factory brake setup
    • Brake Caliper Hoses
      • 1979-1987 GM 3/4 Ton (Skyjacker Part #FBL17 with Skyjacker Part #38AB Square Banjo, Angled)
    • Frame to axle hose
      • 1980-1996 f150 rear hose (Skyjacker RBL80)
  • Rear
    • 1989 f150 factory brake setup
    • Frame to axle hose
      • 1980-1996 f150 rear hose (Skyjacker RBL80)
• Parking Brake Part #’s
  • Intermediate Cable # 1994 explorer drivers side rear
  • Driver Side Cable # 1989 F150 drivers side rear
  • Passenger Side Cable # 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee passenger rear
• Old Man Emu by ARB CS042R
  • Front spring eye bushing RB-237
  • Rear spring eye bushing RB-131
• U-bolt 8" X 3 1/4" X 10" Barnes 150 lb ft
• Rear homemade below the frame mount shackle hanger
  • Bushing m02240
• Shocks
  • Front Part #
    • A2060 – ADX 2.0 Adventure Series Remote Reservoir Aluminum Monotube Shock
    • Monroe 34687
      • Compressed 18"
      • Extended 31"
  • Rear Part #
    • Monroe 34672
      • Compressed 14.25"
      • Extended 23"
• Manifold/Header bolt is 8mmX1.25 thread (Both Sides)
  • 75mm / Quantity: 8
  • 45mm / Quantity: 4
• Y pipe to the manifold is 12mmx1.75 thread (Both Sides)
  • 50mm / Quantity: 4
• M5OD Bellhousing Bolts
  • These are grade 10.9 bolts
    • top four bolts : 10-1.5x60mm
    • middle two bolts : 10-1.5x70mm
    • bottom two bolts: 10-1.5x75mm
• Thermostat housing bolts
  • 6mm x 1.00
• The part numbers for the metal plugs are Dana #219-3052 or Dorman #555-108 and as was mentioned you need three plugs to do the job.
• 5-760 Joint full circle snap ring lot # 123050a item # dsh-30stpa
• Winch rope retainer bolt
  • M6x1.0
  • Length 1.2mm
  • 4mm hex key head

Factory explorer manual hub oring

• Napa # 727-2153

 

[yostyexplorer94]

It was an easy job. I have done several before where I have made it difficult on myself.
I cut the old brake line at the fuel filter location. Fished the brake line from fuel filter forward out from under the truck.
I cleaned it up and used a chop saw to square the line up and a bench wire wheel to deburr it.
Line nut went on and I use the clam shell style flare tool.

This style when used properly has made flaring brake lines enjoying for me!

I reinstalled back in the explorer and added a flared union.

From there ran the new line back to rear brake hose. I fished it up high with the fuel lines to make it last longer this time.
Bled the brakes with a 2x4 wedged between the brake pedal and the seat!

 

[gmanpaint]

You made that sound way to easy! lol

Is that a double flare or single flare? I have been told by people who say a single works better than a double, and others say never do a single. Then the brake shops say they do a special type of flare. I just want a flare that doesn't leak!!!

 

[yostyexplorer94]

My dad taught me to always do a double flare. Double flare has always been leak free for me. Never tried any other way.

I have friends who single flare with no issues that I am aware of.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Boatsided the bumper

Found mice chewed some wires. Had to repair. I dislike mice. I forgot to take pictures.

 

[5spdman]

Digging the new look of the bumper!

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Digging the new look of the bumper!

Thank you!

I redid my antiwrap bar
Before:

After:

My goal was to make it stronger and lighter. It feels lighter but I failed to weigh it to see if it was a success. I also skinned the bottom with a piece of .083 wall chromoly

 

[gmanpaint]

That's pretty slick!

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I swapped in a computer from a manual transmission 1994 explorer sport.

Here is the factory automatic computer

This is the new one in its place

I did this to see if there would be any noticeable difference between the auto and manual computer in my stick shift converted explorer.

If there is a difference, it is so minute that I can't notice.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Saginaw pump from a 1990 E-150

I am going to make my own mounting bracket to the 4.0 ohv

Link to thread

Saginaw Power Steering Homemade Mount

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Harlan 2019

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Tore the Harbor Freight winch apart to seal and regrease. Off brand grease in and off brand winch made sense to me!

Here is what the automatic brake looks like.

My old lady's explorer with black grille and bezels. Installed clear turnsignals and markers from ebay.

Purchased this for $300. 1994 model. I believe a vacuum modulator valve will fix the shifting to second issue it has. There is transmission fluid in the vacuum lines.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

My rust free explorer

I guess the next step will be to put a 2x2 piece of steel in place. Not really sure. Spend more time looking at it than actually doing anything trying to get some sort of plan together


Then I have a voice in my head telling me to put a ranger cab on it.

I also want to build a gantry crane and have the metal to do so. Then I could pull the body and give the frame some love.

Also bought this so I have superduty axles to look at every day. The price was too good to pass up and the dude delivered it to me.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yikes! Time for some (bunch) frame Plate. That does indeed look like a body off repair to me.

Might as well trade that SD in towards a set of 2.5T Rockwells, and just get it over with.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Some frame rust.

Cutting rivots for crossmember

Crossmember removal

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Jack Sloan aka @Four0Sport hosted the Appalachian Adventure 2020 which is the 2nd event we have done. It is a week long trip where we eat, sleep, and wheel out of our vehicles, very similar to the Ultimate Adventure that Four Wheeler Magazine puts on every year. A group from Florida called F.A.R. (Florida Adventure Rigs) does trips like this every year, joined our group for the week. If I recall correctly, we started the week with 19 rigs and finished with 17.

The F.A.R. group stated this was the largest group in the history of their trips. It was also the most diverse rigs in there history, with more other branded vehicles than jeeps. (Fords, GMC, Chevy, Nissan, Toyota, Hummer)

I was the first one out as I had a slight drive line vibration that developed over the past 6 months that I was trying to narrow down. Turned out that all my ring gear bolts backed out and my ring gear just spun on the carrier. That ended the explorers journey right before day 2 got underway. I parked it at a friends camp and rode passenger the rest of the week.

The second one went home as he had planned. The next couple of days were harder trails and with an almost stock daily driver sequoia, it would have came out looking like a hot mess.

It was still a fun trip, despite the lack of ring gear bolts. I got to help spot and record footage so our buddy John could edit it into a fabulous 4 part movie. I met some cool people and got reacquainted with ones from the previous trip.

Episode 1


Episode 2


Episode 3


Episode 4


Please like and subscribe to John's youtube channel as he did amazing work on these videos!

The current state of my explorer

 

[gmanpaint]

Watched the first video with my morning coffee. Will get to the rest soon.

Nice big group. I have met a few of them FAR peeps when we wheeled Black Mountain KY. I seen Robert walking around.

Sorry to hear about the ring gear mishap on the 1st day. What a bummer. Your like the 3rd person I have heard of that happening to on the 8.8 this year. Makes me a bit skiddish, as I am getting mine worked on (shop) in a couple weeks, then a 2500+ mile road trip in a month.

That poor Ranger rear drive shaft! Makes me feel better about going forward with the thick wall drive lines now. lol

I really liked that someone in your group had onboard stick welder setup. Handy dandy item right there.

I really dislike the idea of sleeping in a Hammock, in the thick brushed woods. I am such a bug magnet, that I would be unrecognizable in the morning. I think bug spray companies should make sleeping bags/blankets for me. lol

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Sorry to hear about the ring gear mishap on the 1st day. What a bummer. Your like the 3rd person I have heard of that happening to on the 8.8 this year. Makes me a bit skiddish, as I am getting mine worked on (shop) in a couple weeks, then a 2500+ mile road trip in a month.

I don't think I used enough loctite and I don't remember cleaning the threads out with solvents. I also ran counterbalanced super swampers with a homemade rear driveshaft that vibrated over 55 mph. The ring gear bolts were motive gears with a 5/8" head. My new ones are yukon brand with a 3/4" head. See picture. It all seemed like the recipe for disaster.

That poor Ranger rear drive shaft! Makes me feel better about going forward with the thick wall drive lines now. lol

It was aluminum with cardboard inside.

I really liked that someone in your group had onboard stick welder setup. Handy dandy item right there.

Kenny's Blazer was awesome and well setup.

I really dislike the idea of sleeping in a Hammock, in the thick brushed woods. I am such a bug magnet, that I would be unrecognizable in the morning. I think bug spray companies should make sleeping bags/blankets for me. lol

Me too. I sleep in a tent cot.

 

[gmanpaint]

Tomorrow is the day my Yukon ring gear comes off and bolted to the air locker carrier.

I will make sure I warn the shop about this 8.8 issue, but I'm sure (hopefully) they know to use ample amounts of red sticky juice.

What did you torx them ring gear bolts too? I hear 2 diff #'s, and am not sure which is correct.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

That was another issue. The ones that fell out were torqued to 60 ft lbs (yukon specs). The ford specs are up to 85 ft lbs, so I torqued to 83 ft lbs.
A 7/16 bolt according to crown lift service manuals in a grade 8 is 75 ft lbs max dry. The ring gear bolts are better than a grade 8 (from my understanding).
I don't know what the best torque is, but mine are at 83 ft lbs and we will see what happens!
And plenty of red loctite....

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, exactly my confusion as well.

Arb says 60 lbs, but also says to manufacturing specs. Lol

I'm thinking if the carrier can handle it, and the tech agrees, we should split the difference, and go to around 72.

Will see what they say about it, as they are covering the install warranty.