Yostyexplorer94's 1994 Explorer Registry

I got this explorer back in 2004 when I was 15 from my mom. It had a blown transmission that I had to get replaced. Since then I have modified it. The only bolts I haven't turned would be on the original motor.

This picture was taken when I spend most of my day washing and waxing it with McGuire's 3 step wax system.... boy did it shine!

Stock sized BF Goodrich All Terrains & a brush guard from a 1998 - 2000 Ford Ranger

3" body lift and a home built bumper

New BF Goodrich 33"x10.5-r15's

Put bigger tires on it (35" Super Swampers LTB's)

A broken front axle shaft resulted in a solid axle swap. Click here for the Solid Axle Swap build thread!

Changed my grill to a ranger one!

37" tires, rock sliders, and a winch

1994 Ford Explorer Specs

• 1979 f150 Dana 44 Front Axle
• 1989 F150 Ford 8.8 Rear Axle
• Wheels & Tires
  • Dirty Life Canyon Race Matte Black
    • First torque 10 - 14 ft lbs
    • Final torque 18 - 24 ft lbs
  • Cooper STT Pro 37x12.50r17
    • 12oz Airsoft BBs each
• 1991-1994 Ford Explorer Front Driveshaft (Front & Rear)
  • Front: explorer front lengthed. Double cardan (non greasable) centering ball spicer 10018440
  • Rear: adams driveshaft 1310 joints. Double cardan centering ball (greasable) spicer 10018465
• Behemoth Drivetrain 1354 Doubler
• 1990 Ford Econoline E-150 Saginaw Power Steering Pump
  • Yost Offroad Bracket
  • 1990 Ford Econoline E-150 High Pressure Line
  • 1994 Ford Explorer Return Line
• 3g Ford Alternator
  • Front Bearing 6303 RS
  • Rear Bearing 6000-2RS
• Speedometer Cable – Ford Aerostar - Atp part # y-869 speedo cable
• Steering Fix Bushing – JCRoffroad.com Part # PLYBSH
• Ruff stuff bushings: DAY MO2153 1.5"od x 3/4"id
• Tie Rod End Part # ES2233L, ES2234R, ES2234R, ES2027L
• Body mounts
  • Rad support:
  • A pillar:
  • B pillar:
  • C pillar: energy susp. 9.4104G
  • Rear: energy susp. 9.4104G
• Brakes
  • Front
    • 1979 f150 factory brake setup
    • Brake Caliper Hoses
      • 1979-1987 GM 3/4 Ton (Skyjacker Part #FBL17 with Skyjacker Part #38AB Square Banjo, Angled)
    • Frame to axle hose
      • 1980-1996 f150 rear hose (Skyjacker RBL80)
  • Rear
    • 1989 f150 factory brake setup
    • Frame to axle hose
      • 1980-1996 f150 rear hose (Skyjacker RBL80)
• Parking Brake Part #’s
  • Intermediate Cable # 1994 explorer drivers side rear
  • Driver Side Cable # 1989 F150 drivers side rear
  • Passenger Side Cable # 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee passenger rear
• Old Man Emu by ARB CS042R
  • Front spring eye bushing RB-237
  • Rear spring eye bushing RB-131
• U-bolt 8" X 3 1/4" X 10" Barnes 150 lb ft
• Rear homemade below the frame mount shackle hanger
  • Bushing m02240
• Shocks
  • Front Part #
    • A2060 – ADX 2.0 Adventure Series Remote Reservoir Aluminum Monotube Shock
    • Monroe 34687
      • Compressed 18"
      • Extended 31"
  • Rear Part #
    • Monroe 34672
      • Compressed 14.25"
      • Extended 23"
• Manifold/Header bolt is 8mmX1.25 thread (Both Sides)
  • 75mm / Quantity: 8
  • 45mm / Quantity: 4
• Y pipe to the manifold is 12mmx1.75 thread (Both Sides)
  • 50mm / Quantity: 4
• M5OD Bellhousing Bolts
  • These are grade 10.9 bolts
    • top four bolts : 10-1.5x60mm
    • middle two bolts : 10-1.5x70mm
    • bottom two bolts: 10-1.5x75mm
• Thermostat housing bolts
  • 6mm x 1.00
• The part numbers for the metal plugs are Dana #219-3052 or Dorman #555-108 and as was mentioned you need three plugs to do the job.
• 5-760 Joint full circle snap ring lot # 123050a item # dsh-30stpa
• Winch rope retainer bolt
  • M6x1.0
  • Length 1.2mm
  • 4mm hex key head

Factory explorer manual hub oring

• Napa # 727-2153

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I received the strong box from behemoth fab on Wednesday. It would not shift into low range. It was very upsetting.

My dad and I troubleshot it and determined the sleeve that the shift rides on was shifting because it did not fully sit on the housing.

Here is the bolt hole.

Here is the sleeve in the position where it bolts. The sleeve would shift the fork over when it was tightened.

Here is my fix.

Comparison; Behemoth Drivetrains sleeve on the left, Mine on the right

A little extra needed clearance on the fork.

Other pictures:


I guess now I will put it in and see what happens when torque is applied to it.

 

[Four0Sport]

*crosses fingers*

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I used an empty 1354 case as my mockup transfer case and figured out if I cut the mounts for the dampener off, it fits real nice without modifying my radius arm cross member. I was originally going to use the dampener mounts to make a transfer case frame mount with a Dom bushing but I had all kinds of clearance problems. Behemoth DT sent me a mounting kit for the strongbox with a Dom bushing that will work quite nicely so I will use that instead. I decided to cut the mounts off of the good transfer case so no turning back now.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I got it in just to try it out. Still have a lot of work to do.

 

[Turdle]

Yup, that is a creeper!

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I cut an access hole.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

The doubler is really hard to shift into high. really easy to shift to neutral. somewhat hard to shift into low (easier than high). Jacob from behemoth fab told me to shift it while the vehicle is rolling, which is about the only way to get high to engage and even that takes forever to accomplish. :thumbdwn:

 

[yostyexplorer94]

-

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I made shifters

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I tore the strong box out to see why it is still not shifting right. When I pulled the drain plug, the magnet on the plug was full of fine metal shavings... SWEET!

The disk is rubbing the shift fork still. It rubbed itself through.

So I clearance it. Can't have metal on metal rubbing like that.

The result is nothing is really rubbing now and still hard to shift.

The slide on the fork is quite a bit smaller than a factory fork. This is my binding problem.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Talked to jacob on the phone. He said he is going to make me a new strongbox and it will take 3 weeks.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Two and a half months and i am still waiting on a replacement strong box.

Talked to jacob on the phone. He said he is going to make me a new strongbox and it will take 3 weeks.

 

[Four0Sport]

Atlas...

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Haha nope!

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I got a tracking number from behemothdt tonight and the est. Arrival time is this friday.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Behemoth Strong Box Pictures

Old Strong Box on the left. New one on the right. 1" length difference.

Here is the clearance between my radius arm crossmember and the transfer case. The plan is to clearance the floor board and clock the transfer case up to clear the crossmember.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

So far the doubler is working great. I have to extend the front driveshaft yet so i can test it turning all 4 tires.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

At another standstill with the doubler. I developed a bad leak coming from the rear of the doubler. Tore it out and the bearing was out of the housing 1/2". It never had the snap ring installed... Sent jacob a message and he is shipping me a snap ring. The doubler should be good when i get a snap ring in there.

Meanwhile i trimmed my radius arm crossmember to make installing the transfer case much easier. I also removed the wires for the abs speed sensor at the transfer case.

Update: I got the snap ring and the doubler is back together. Now I got to install it under the explorer.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

Atp part # y-869 speedo cable is the longer speedometer cable aerostar part #
I used this because with the doubler the stock one is too short.

 

[yostyexplorer94]

I thought I was gonna cause a traffic accident. My buddy's house is a long a busy road and the amount of people that got distracted by this was funny to watch!