Yostyexplorer94's 1994 Explorer Registry | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Yostyexplorer94's 1994 Explorer Registry

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I got this explorer back in 2004 when I was 15 from my mom. It had a blown transmission that I had to get replaced. Since then I have modified it. The only bolts I haven't turned would be on the original motor.

This picture was taken when I spend most of my day washing and waxing it with McGuire's 3 step wax system.... boy did it shine!

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Stock sized BF Goodrich All Terrains & a brush guard from a 1998 - 2000 Ford Ranger

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3" body lift and a home built bumper

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New BF Goodrich 33"x10.5-r15's

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Put bigger tires on it (35" Super Swampers LTB's)

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A broken front axle shaft resulted in a solid axle swap. Click here for the Solid Axle Swap build thread!
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Changed my grill to a ranger one!

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37" tires, rock sliders, and a winch

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1994 Ford Explorer Specs
  • 1979 f150 Dana 44 Front Axle
  • 1989 F150 Ford 8.8 Rear Axle
  • Wheels & Tires
    • Dirty Life Canyon Race Matte Black
      • First torque 10 - 14 ft lbs
      • Final torque 18 - 24 ft lbs
    • Cooper STT Pro 37x12.50r17
      • 12oz Airsoft BBs each
  • 1991-1994 Ford Explorer Front Driveshaft (Front & Rear)
    • Front: explorer front lengthed. Double cardan (non greasable) centering ball spicer 10018440
    • Rear: adams driveshaft 1310 joints. Double cardan centering ball (greasable) spicer 10018465
  • Behemoth Drivetrain 1354 Doubler
  • 1990 Ford Econoline E-150 Saginaw Power Steering Pump
    • Yost Offroad Bracket
    • 1990 Ford Econoline E-150 High Pressure Line
    • 1994 Ford Explorer Return Line
  • 3g Ford Alternator
    • Front Bearing 6303 RS
    • Rear Bearing 6000-2RS
  • Speedometer Cable – Ford Aerostar - Atp part # y-869 speedo cable
  • Steering Fix Bushing – JCRoffroad.com Part # PLYBSH
  • Ruff stuff bushings: DAY MO2153 1.5"od x 3/4"id
  • Tie Rod End Part # ES2233L, ES2234R, ES2234R, ES2027L
  • Body mounts
    • Rad support:
    • A pillar:
    • B pillar:
    • C pillar: energy susp. 9.4104G
    • Rear: energy susp. 9.4104G
  • Brakes
    • Front
      • 1979 f150 factory brake setup
      • Brake Caliper Hoses
        • 1979-1987 GM 3/4 Ton (Skyjacker Part #FBL17 with Skyjacker Part #38AB Square Banjo, Angled)
      • Frame to axle hose
        • 1980-1996 f150 rear hose (Skyjacker RBL80)
    • Rear
      • 1989 f150 factory brake setup
      • Frame to axle hose
        • 1980-1996 f150 rear hose (Skyjacker RBL80)
  • Parking Brake Part #’s
    • Intermediate Cable # 1994 explorer drivers side rear
    • Driver Side Cable # 1989 F150 drivers side rear
    • Passenger Side Cable # 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee passenger rear
  • Old Man Emu by ARB CS042R
    • Front spring eye bushing RB-237
    • Rear spring eye bushing RB-131
  • U-bolt 8" X 3 1/4" X 10" Barnes 150 lb ft
  • Rear homemade below the frame mount shackle hanger
    • Bushing m02240
  • Shocks
    • Front Part #
      • A2060 – ADX 2.0 Adventure Series Remote Reservoir Aluminum Monotube Shock
      • Monroe 34687
        • Compressed 18"
        • Extended 31"
    • Rear Part #
      • Monroe 34672
        • Compressed 14.25"
        • Extended 23"
  • Manifold/Header bolt is 8mmX1.25 thread (Both Sides)
    • 75mm / Quantity: 8
    • 45mm / Quantity: 4
  • Y pipe to the manifold is 12mmx1.75 thread (Both Sides)
    • 50mm / Quantity: 4
  • M5OD Bellhousing Bolts
    • These are grade 10.9 bolts
      • top four bolts : 10-1.5x60mm
      • middle two bolts : 10-1.5x70mm
      • bottom two bolts: 10-1.5x75mm
  • Thermostat housing bolts
    • 6mm x 1.00
  • The part numbers for the metal plugs are Dana #219-3052 or Dorman #555-108 and as was mentioned you need three plugs to do the job.
  • 5-760 Joint full circle snap ring lot # 123050a item # dsh-30stpa
  • Winch rope retainer bolt
    • M6x1.0
    • Length 1.2mm
    • 4mm hex key head

Factory explorer manual hub oring
  • Napa # 727-2153
 



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wooooooooooo progress!

I guess i haven't updated this thread recently. The doubler is in and working like it should.

For the driveshafts, i couldn't see paying money to have someone modify and balance them, so i took it upon myself to make them.

For the rear I used a ranger shaft and ground the double cardian joint off the tube and welded a single u joint end off of an explorer driveshaft. It was so perfect of a fit it scared me!

For the front, I chopped a stock explorer front driveshaft in half and got i piece of pipe that slid over the stock driveshaft tube. I burned them in with the buzz box and called it a day.

I had both driveshafts spinning almost 65mph and i didn't notice any different vibrations (unbalanced ltb swampers don't do well above 60mph!)

That was a couple of months ago and i haven't had much time to work on it. I have been driving it quite often and i probably got 3000 road miles on the doubler.
 






Nice rig man. Where'd you buy the fender flares from? I'll need to cover my tires since they'll be sticking out about four inches past the fenders and bedsides after my SAS.
 






Nice rig man. Where'd you buy the fender flares from? I'll need to cover my tires since they'll be sticking out about four inches past the fenders and bedsides after my SAS.

Thanks for the complement! The fender flares are homemade. I used a black plastic 55 gallon drum, a thin piece of angle iron to attach it to the fender, and a lot of 1/4" bolts.
 






Thanks, that's a good idea. I'll keep that in mind when I do my SAS.
 












I thought about those when I was in Walmart last summer, forgot all about it until now. Thanks. Pa is a PITA with road laws especially in Allegheny County where I live.
 






oh yes good ole' pa road laws. I hate my fender flares and it pained me to put them on but I wanted it to be road legal.
 












I have been eliminating alot of bs on the explorer lately. Stuff that I put on when I was younger and excess wiring to extras I eliminated like abs, vss, factory amplifier, etc. Here is an example. I took the grille guard/ deer slayer/ headlight protector off. That thing by itself weighed roughly 100lbs. I am going to move the bumper up and possibly redo some of it for more clearance.
 






I am also in the process of removing things I dont need, fixing things i half assed, and installing stuff ive had laying around for years. why? cause theyre all FREE mods and I am BROKE.

the new front and rear bumpers on my pos make a HUGE difference with approach angle, weight, sight, sexiness, etc..

im currently working on trimming down on what I carry with me and finding the best way to haul it around.

keep up the good work!
 












It was worth every penny. I couldn't ever go back to not having one. I would recommend you to look into getting the shorty doubler from Behemoth Drivetrain but my long drawn out experience with him keeps me from saying you should 100% buy from him.

There is 4 current options i know of that will get you the gear reduction.

1. Homemade doubler
2. D. D. Machine
3. Behemoth Drivetrain
4. Atlas

Its ashame that is all our options.
 






1. $0-$400
2. $?
3. $600-$800
4. $2200

uh.. I dont trust myself to do it and I dont have an extra 2K laying around so the doubler or strong box looks like an option

gonna wait though.. not sure what the next few months holds. Had a friend who builds full size rigs over last night putting thoughts of 60s and 14 bolts on my head.
 






Behemoth seems to have perfected his doubler though. Give him a call and see what his estimated shipping times would be for one. I heard a guy on Pirate got one in a month.

I'd do the doubler before 1 tons unless you are breaking what you got now. It is amazing to pull up on a tire or 3' tree stump using the clutch and brake pedals only. It makes technical trails so much easier.

In double low i can burn out on dry pavement at idle without the hubs locked in of course!
 






did you order the DIY kit and install the planetaries from a second case yourself? doesn't seem like it would be too big of a hassle and I have a spare 1354 at the house.

youre running the regular box not the shorty, correct? been eyeing up the shorty doubler, gotta remember I'm driving a 2dr, hate to have to relocate a bunch of stuff.
 






I have the diy kit and the hardest part was beating the ring gear into the strongbox. There is a youtube video of the assembly process.
http://youtu.be/qq0nF0FzFNs

The shorty doubler uses a stronger shaft.
 






My buddy and I went wheeling at rausch creek for his bachelor party lol. Here are some videos. Nothing extreme.





My toyota buddy has a plasma cutter and he brought it over to cut the rusty rockers out of my explorer.
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youre running the regular box not the shorty, correct? been eyeing up the shorty doubler, gotta remember I'm driving a 2dr, hate to have to relocate a bunch of stuff.

i realized I never answered your question. I am running the regular box not a shorty.
 



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