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ZEX dry Nitrous, has got to be a joke


spindlecone

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I sent them an email,Pro street, get one back, ya man it can work but you may have some problems, I call them on the phone, ask some questions, like tell me about dry VS wet nitrous,I dunno says the guy that sends out the emails, let me turn you over to the tech guy, tech guy says, give me a minute,will look it up, he comes back, very honest fellow says i really cannot answere the question because i do not know the answere.
So I get the feeling they have not a clue, so i ask if they have a system for my application, abosolutly, we can set you up with all the right stuff you need, so I ask what I need, the techie starts talking about nitrous amplifiers and all sorts of jive shit, so I ask what is a nitrous amplifier, he said he will have his boss call back, I'm Just the phone guy, have a nice day
 


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performancenut

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Shop somewhere else. That kind of service is crap. The X can do quite well with NO2; I run a dry 100 shot with a recent dyno proven 70+ horsepower. Just watch the air/fuel ratio. And have fun.
 

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james t

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This is becoming more and more common with many types of aftermarket parts. There are just alot of places who will let anyone answer the phone.
 




spindlecone

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Thx Nut
Am lookin to run a simple, rare 60 shot, maybe a couple times a week at most, just having a hard time getting some simple answeres
 




performancenut

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Yup. If a clown answers, then try another time and/or another place. You as a potential customer are valuable.
 

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spindlecone

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Agree 100% james, would seem if one had a product to sell one would surround ones company with people that could answere some rudimentry questions, so mush for the prostreet folks
 








spindlecone

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Thx foo
Am wantin to run a safe, mild 50 shot, maybe more if safe and sane, can not find an honest source, to tell me how
Thx
 




Foo

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np. from what I have learned from Alec what you want is the Zex kit #82011. It's a dry kit that comes with three nipples 55,65,and 75 shot's. If your on the stock ECU don't run more than a 55 shot at most.

I just ordered myself a new flip chip to take advantage of a 75 shot. And it looks like you have a chip too so see if you can it re-burned at apten.

here's the thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111387&highlight=zex
 




csmicfool

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I was running a 75 shot on my 3.0L ford probe. You can do it with the stock computer, I just recommend Air/Fuel guages for each bank and a good adjustable fuel pressure regulator. But if you're just tossing in a nitrous kit without any other upgrades a 55 shot is about the most that wont choke up your engine. Intake/exaust mods are a good place to start for a reliable N20 setup.
 




karl_burns

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wet versus dry

The Dry kit adds NOS to your intake, while the wet kit injects it into the air/fuel mixture. Dry kits are all that I ever see installed.
In fact, they did one on Horsepower TV last weekend. Heck, they do one probably once a month.
Karl
 




csmicfool

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spindlecone said:
tell me about dry VS wet nitrous
The difference is pretty simple. A dry kit comes with a single solenoid to spray N20 gas into your intake or air/fuel mixture. The largest engine safety issue with a dry kit is leaning out the mixture too much and burning out the motor. A wet kit has dual solenoids- one for N20 gas (not liquid) and one for fuel. The wet kit can also inject either in your intake or your mixture. The benefit of a wet kit is the reduced risk of lean conditions and pre-ignition. Wet kits also wont tax your computer as much because they essentially calculate the extra fuel needed to burn N20 automatically. For any shot under 100, I doubt a wet kit is really necesary.
 




rocket 5979

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Hey Spindlecone if you really want to know how to set up a nitrous system for your truck then shoot me a PM. Nitrous is easy. Especially that small of a shot.
 




BeauJ

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Would I be fine with a 75 dry shot on mine. I hit 8-9 PSI when it's really cold outside, but on normal days I average 5-6 PSI. I've got my chip burned for the supercharger, would I need to send it back to be burned for both? Would my AWD transfer case handle it?
 




rocket 5979

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ChopinOn22s said:
Would I be fine with a 75 dry shot on mine. I hit 8-9 PSI when it's really cold outside, but on normal days I average 5-6 PSI. I've got my chip burned for the supercharger, would I need to send it back to be burned for both? Would my AWD transfer case handle it?

Is your chip just a single program chip? If so then if you really wanted to run nitrous and not worry too much about detonation then send the chip in to take 2 degrees timing out of it or so. Run a colder heat range of plugs is another thing that will curb the possibility of that problem arising. The best of all worlds would be to run a switch chip with one program for just the charger and another program for the charger and the nitro. If you just run nitro at the track then running race gas would be another thing to consider too. There are a few ways to go. It depends on what your goals are and how much money you got. I would say switchchip would be the best idea.

I would have to say that you are probably pushing the limits of that AWD transfer case as it is. Sometimes you get lucky and they last a while and other times they go out pretty quickly. But being that there is no reason in killing a perfectly good TC, I would just pull it out and sell it to someone and just run your truck 2wd. You dont ever have need of 4wd do you? That way instead of just killing a good thing for nothing you can at least get a little bit of your money out of it.
 




performancenut

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ChopinOn22s said:
Would I be fine with a 75 dry shot on mine. I hit 8-9 PSI when it's really cold outside, but on normal days I average 5-6 PSI. I've got my chip burned for the supercharger, would I need to send it back to be burned for both? Would my AWD transfer case handle it?
Be cautious for excess heat and detonation. Perfect situation for an intercooler or, better yet more simple, an alcohol/H2O injection system to reduce temperature. Zoooooom.
 




BeauJ

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Im gonna go to the junkyard this weekend and check out a tailshaft of a tranny and a driveshaft. Shouldn't run me too much or be hard to do. I know you gotta change things up front to make it a True 2WD, but how long can I run until I can convert everything up front?
 




spindlecone

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Check out nitrous express on the web, I'm ordering the ford EFI stage one system, if you have an auto tranny thats all you need, manual trannys need a window switch.
You can get all offsite for about 500 hun without the switch.
Also is alot of info on that site about wet verses dry.
All the kids in my sons stang club stay away from dry, some of whom run 300 shots at 20 lbs boost, bunch of nitrous nut cases
 




rocket 5979

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If your going to run a big shot then wet is the way to go. The whole wet versus dry is always going to be a debate. Dry kits on average are alot cheaper. And true wet kits can be pretty expensive. Dry kits are easier to tune and dont leave puddled fuel in the intake which can lead to bad things sometimes. However the advantage of a wet kit is that though it is not as simple to tune. There are more options to finetune with it. Even to the point of tuning each individual cylinder. Dry kits are fine if your only going to run like a 100 shot. Anything significantly bigger and I would go with wet. I would say that for most on this site a dry kit would be optimal because it is simple and as long as you follow some guidelines pretty safe too.
 


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expo5.0

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rocket- will you help out on my nitrous question. its in the need for speed forum.

i think its all layed out there question wise. no one seems to either know or want to help me to do what i want to do. I just want to get a nice 35-75hp gain for cheap (under $500) and i want a purge since i show my truck so much and it will make it show better. will the stuff i'm looking at work or what?
 




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