I have recently replaced the plastic and aluminum composite radiator and found it a breeze to accomplish. The new replacement radiator was $188 here in Anchorage Alaska. I read in my shop manual the directions for disassembling the core to tank connections and I couldn't really say for sure just where the leak was coming from in my old radiator. With the old radiator removed, the local radiator shop pressure tested it and found the leak in the tank body. They told me that no repair was possible with a leak in the plastic tank. The radiator change out requires removal of the air inlet duct from the air cleaner to induction plenum then the removal of four fasteners that are all accessible from the top. The fan shroud lifts out of a clip below and the radiator lifts out of two locating holes in the support. The hose clamps on the water hoses are easy to access. The two coolant lines from the transmission to radiator unscrew on the right side quite easily. Having performed the job one time, I think the average home mechanic could have the radiator removed and replaced in an hour once the coolant has drained from the petcock on the lower left corner of the radiator. In reassembling, install the shroud first. It will not slide in if you install the radiator first. With the shroud and radiator out, the front of the motor is much more accessible. I would probably consider radiator removal prior to starting a water pump replacement. The serpentine belt is also more accessible with the radiator removed.
Contributed by Nate B.The Question The radiator my 93EB has developed a leak. I'm looking for a detailed procedure for replacing it. I read the radiator replacement procedure on this site and it mentioned "disassembling the core to tank connections" troubles me somewhat. Is there a procedure for this or will just removing the two hoses, two transmission lines, shroud and retaining bolts get the radiator out? The diagnosis took some time I chased this for months and finally noticed that it's leaking along the passenger side seem near the top of the radiator. The leaking slows then stops as the engine comes to operating temperature. It looks like an easy job but past experience with Fords tells me something will cause the need for a special tool or procedure. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Labor rates and parts mark-up have caused me to do more of my own work, though mechanically able I don't have a complete tool kit.
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The Reply
Can't be absolutely sure about your '93 but my '92 was a piece of cake. Bought a new aftermarket radiator (Modine) for about $120. As you described "just removing the two hoses, two transmission lines, shroud and retaining bolts get the radiator out". It did for me.
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