Body Work & Detailing | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Body Work & Detailing

Waxing washing, wheel cleaning and body work. This is the place to discuss those topics.
Wondering if there is a certain tolerance for how a door fits? The top of my 16 EX front passenger door appears to be recessed in further than the rear passenger door. I would say as much as an 1/8" to 1/4" inch. Should I have a dealer look at it or take my lumps for not noticing it when I bought it? The drivers side looks fine. Thanks
I know there are a number of people's opinions on this particular issue in the automotive world, but I'm new to the midwest where they use insane amounts of road salt and de-icer as well as high humidity levels. In Idaho they primarily used sand and its a non-humid environment. I'm looking into rust proofing the undercarriage with one of the more permanent methods. My Ex will be my daily driver until I get my second car (MK6 GTI). Then it will become my primary winter/offroad vehicle.I know rust is awful out here, I just wanted opinions as to what to do. I drive less than 5 miles a day in the winter, but would love to keep her looking pretty and have that piece of mind the frame won't rot out on me. If it matters, it is originally from...
I've done some searches and I'm not finding what I'm looking for so I hope I'm not repeating this - but it sounds like something that would be common, so.... I have a 9 month old 2016 Explorer Limited. On the bottom of the door panels are slim chrome trim pieces, says Explorer on the front of each side. Also, the chrome piece on the back hatch has the same issue. The chrome (and my guess is it's chrome covered plastic) has what appear to be water spots but they seem to have rust or tarnish around the outside edges of the "spots". I'm used to having water spots that won't come off, even with a clay bar, both on trim, glass, and metal. Annoying but so it goes with car ownership. I just bought this car perhaps 2 months ago and it's my...
I had a ton of overspray on my '70 Dart after repainting the inside of the trunk. It was a mix of epoxy primer and black urethane with clear. I thought I had masked the car off well enough taking into consideration paint migrating through the quarter panels, into the sail panels etc, but the aerosol mist found it's way around the entire car. My initial reaction when I saw how much epoxy primer had built up between the quarter glass and the quarter panel was that the paint was ruined. I called my friend Ron who own www.RMRestoration.com and asked for his advice. He said, "Oh it happens all the time. Just get a cloth from SM Arnold", and so I did... As he was telling me about it I punched it into Amazon.com and found it: Speedy Surface...
Hello all, My hatch has a gap at the top, about 2-3". Body shop said it looked like the wrong hinges or these were installed backwards and estimated $292 or less if the hinges didn't have to be replaced. After looking into the problem the left hinge [where it's mounted in the hatch] was rusted too badly and I needed a new hatch and hinges. $1500. :help: come on really? So here I am. I certainly need another solution. It's just a beater but I can't have all that exposure to the weather. Otherwise it functions, opens, locks, wiper and defroster don't but that's later. No one has run across this OR HOW TO REPAIR it !? (lost photos) I'm not sure if these are the correct hinges...
So last weekend I decided to finally paint the front and rear bumper trim on the truck. It wasn't until the paint dried that I realized it was dark brown and not dark gray (now I know what color dark walnut is). Well i'm not happy with the dark brown color and I'm just going with black paint this time. I'm going to re spray the bumpers this weekend and I'm wondering if I should try to sand off as much of the existing paint as possible, or if i can just spray over it since it's in good shape. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Alright gents, i have a couple of questions: I need to replace the door on my 1996 xlt. I have a full replacement door sitting here, but I am unsure of the electrical connections. Looking at the replacement door, which (I THINK) is from a 1996 (its definitely a second gen) it looks like there is a single plug for the entire door harness, on the BODY side, just on the other side of the black rubber accordian/coduit. Is this correct? The door has the same options, power window, power lock, same lighting. I am just hoping i can undo the connector and unbolt the door for replacement. I guess what I'm really asking is.... is there a single connector on the body side door harness? TIA
What's yours? Favorite products? Methods? Etc. I like to give it a good soak to loosen everything up. Currently using Blue Coral wash and wax as it was a Christmas gift and it actually does a nice job. Usually like the meguiars gold class wash though. Always a microfiber mitt with a few passes on the car then spray it out to rid it of contaminants before dipping it back in the bucket and continuing to clean Every so often I use meguiars cleaner wax which really provides an extra step towards keeping the paint nice. I usually finish off with meguiars next generation tech wax 2.0 for a nice glossy finish. Interior is dusted with a swiffer cloth and microfiber towels are used to apply meguiars ultimate protectant to the dash and...
Father time has taken it toll on my body side door molding. Both front doors have large cracks showing. From my internet searches these parts seem to be made of "Unobtanium" now. Options for repair or suitable replacement ideas are welcome. If someone happens to have the Ford P\n it may help in my internet quest for these mythical items. Thanks Ladies and Gentlemen!
So i decided is was time to get rid of the awful chrome and browny/beige/grey sun bleached bumpers my XLT has on it, so of course its time to plasti-dip them! Except up here plasti-dip is damn near $22 a can and only covers 5 sq/ft (according to the label). Flexidip from rustoleum is half the price and covers twice the area, only down side is its wayyyyy more finicky to work with then plasti-dip, but it does give a perfect matte black silky smooth finish if you do it right. As you can see, the last few coats I rushed and the binding agent didnt fully combine with the "rubber" inside the can, leaving these white areas. Next is the door bump strips
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