Moonroof Will Not Close

[peterk9]

Any other suggestions of things to try other then taking it to the dealer? Thanks in advance.

I don't know if I'd try seeing if you could move it by hand or not just to see if perhaps it might be just stuck. I suspect it could be the motor that has failed or possible the switch. According to another post I just read there are 2 motors. The shade is operated by a separate one. There are a couple threads on moonroof issues and I will merged yours with this one.

Peter

 

[HMayes]

Hi folks,

I just bought a 2013 explorer limited. I neglected to test the moonroof as it was raining during the test drive. I can open and close the shade but the tilt and slide buttons do nothing. No noise or movement. Is this a common problem? What should I do to start troubleshooting this? I can find my way around a multimeter I just need to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks.

 

[Jon M]

Start with fuses. I don't know which ones, but that would be my first stop.

 

[jurzeyfresh]

Thanks Peter. I didn't check the cabin fusebox. I couldn't find it. Im guessing its underneath the plastic. I just never know when those things come off easy or not. Ill definitely mention it to the shop tomorrow.

I am having the same problem as you and would really like to find out how it was resolved.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Fuse F8 in the battery fuse box (under hood). Should be 20A.

The slide switch for the glass will activate the shade to retract if it is closed. When the shade is closed and you select the slide button does it doing anything with the shade? That would make mean lean towards a bad switch


Scratch checking that fuse as the shade motor uses the same fuse as the glass motor. If the fuse was bad neither would work.

 

[sheltonfilms]

Try re-initializing the glass motor (this is a Ford Service procedure):

1. Driver or passenger front door must be open during the entire procedure. Open the driver or passenger door.

2. Turn the ignition to the ON position.

3. Do the following within 5 seconds:

1. Cycle the ignition to the OFF position then back to ON.
2. Push the TILT switch for less than one second and release.
3. Push and hold the Tilt switch until full glass open and closed is witnessed (this could take up to 20 seconds to start).
​

4. Release the switch and verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close and one-touch vent operations.

 

[HMayes]

Try re-initializing the glass motor (this is a Ford Service procedure):

1. Driver or passenger front door must be open during the entire procedure. Open the driver or passenger door.

2. Turn the ignition to the ON position.

3. Do the following within 5 seconds:

1. Cycle the ignition to the OFF position then back to ON.
2. Push the TILT switch for less than one second and release.
3. Push and hold the Tilt switch until full glass open and closed is witnessed (this could take up to 20 seconds to start).
​

4. Release the switch and verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close and one-touch vent operations.

Okay thank you for the tip. I just want to be clear with the push button start turning the ignition on is just starting the car, correct? Or is there a way to mimmick a key ignition where you can have the ignition in the on position but the engine off?

Thank you

 

[peterk9]

Okay thank you for the tip. I just want to be clear with the push button start turning the ignition on is just starting the car, correct? Or is there a way to mimmick a key ignition where you can have the ignition in the on position but the engine off?

Thank you

You can put it into accessory mode by pushing the ignition button WITHOUT having your foot on the brake pedal.

Peter

 

[peterk9]

Fuse F8 in the battery fuse box (under hood). Should be 20A.

The slide switch for the glass will activate the shade to retract if it is closed. When the shade is closed and you select the slide button does it doing anything with the shade? That would make mean lean towards a bad switch


Scratch checking that fuse as the shade motor uses the same fuse as the glass motor. If the fuse was bad neither would work.

Fuse 38 (10A) in the cabin fuse box is also shown as being for the Moonroof AND Auto dimming rearview mirror. Why would there be 2?

Peter

 

[foremanrj]

PeterK9 thanks for poking me in the ribs and reminding me to reply with the issues I had regarding my sun/moon roof. We found out that the moonroof motor on the drivers side was inoperatable due to water damage. Our drain plugs were both clogged and during the rainy season the buildup of water damaged the motor. We cleared the drain tubes and then ordered a new motor and it now works perfectly.

 

[HMayes]

Try re-initializing the glass motor (this is a Ford Service procedure):

1. Driver or passenger front door must be open during the entire procedure. Open the driver or passenger door.

2. Turn the ignition to the ON position.

3. Do the following within 5 seconds:

1. Cycle the ignition to the OFF position then back to ON.
2. Push the TILT switch for less than one second and release.
3. Push and hold the Tilt switch until full glass open and closed is witnessed (this could take up to 20 seconds to start).
​

4. Release the switch and verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close and one-touch vent operations.

I tried the above steps several times. No movement or noise from the sunroof. Next suggestion? Thank you!

 

[peterk9]

see post #11. Does the auto dimming mirror work?

 

[HMayes]

see post #11. Does the auto dimming mirror work?

Hmmm how do I test this? I drove it at night and the headlights in the rear view did not seem annoyingly bright. Not sure how to say with certainty the auto dimming feature is working.

Also, I did check fuse 8 under the hood. Not blown. Also pulling it disables the sun shade so that is not the problem. Not sure how to get at the passenger fuse panel.

 

[peterk9]

Hmmm how do I test this? I drove it at night and the headlights in the rear view did not seem annoyingly bright. Not sure how to say with certainty the auto dimming feature is working.

Also, I did check fuse 8 under the hood. Not blown. Also pulling it disables the sun shade so that is not the problem. Not sure how to get at the passenger fuse panel.

There are sensors on the front and back of the mirror. I don't know if you can play with them to see if the mirror image changes.
I don't know if the 2013 has a plastic cover under the dash or not. I know the 2011 did not and neither did the 2012, I think. That has to be removed first if it is there. The fuse box is up above the parking brake.
Edit: Found the answer to the cover; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/accessing-cabin-fuse-box.388446/
Location: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-fuse-box-location.320569/page-2#post-2902830

Peter

 

[sheltonfilms]

Fuse 38 is the accessory delay relay power signal feed. This is why you can run the sunroof and power windows when the car has been turned off, until doors are opened. Also feeds shade.

Fuse 8 in the engine bay is the constant hot at all times power wire where the main source of current is pulled.

Shade is working and glass isn't means fuses are good and it's something else.

The shade motor controller and the glass motor controller talk to each other through a jumper harness. There is no network communications to these modules which sucks because you can't get any error codes from them using a scanner.

Next Step is to pull the overhead console assembly down. There are two clips near the rear. Pull the rear of the console downward to pull the clips out. I think the front of the console pivots.

Then using the diagram below place use your multimeter to check for continuity between the pins listed when the each switch is pressed.

 

[ChristianWarrior]

check if you have supply voltage to the switch

 

[peterk9]

Fuse 38 is the accessory delay relay power signal feed. This is why you can run the sunroof and power windows when the car has been turned off, until doors are opened. Also feeds shade.

Fuse 8 in the engine bay is the constant hot at all times power wire where the main source of current is pulled.

Shade is working and glass isn't means fuses are good and it's something else.

The shade motor controller and the glass motor controller talk to each other through a jumper harness. There is no network communications to these modules which sucks because you can't get any error codes from them using a scanner.

Next Step is to pull the overhead console assembly down. There are two clips near the rear. Pull the rear of the console downward to pull the clips out. I think the front of the console pivots.

Thank you for that info. That answers the question I had and will keep that in mind for future replies. Big help.

Peter

 

[HMayes]

Fuse 38 is the accessory delay relay power signal feed. This is why you can run the sunroof and power windows when the car has been turned off, until doors are opened. Also feeds shade.

Fuse 8 in the engine bay is the constant hot at all times power wire where the main source of current is pulled.

Shade is working and glass isn't means fuses are good and it's something else.

The shade motor controller and the glass motor controller talk to each other through a jumper harness. There is no network communications to these modules which sucks because you can't get any error codes from them using a scanner.

Next Step is to pull the overhead console assembly down. There are two clips near the rear. Pull the rear of the console downward to pull the clips out. I think the front of the console pivots.

Then using the diagram below place use your multimeter to check for continuity between the pins listed when the each switch is pressed.

This is awesome. Thank you for providing this. Now I just need to find the time to sit and fiddle with this.

Just to be sure my testing procedure is right, I put my multimeter into continuity/circuit mode, and (for example, the top row test) put my multimeter common contact on pin 12, and the other contact on pin 3, and i should see continuity indicated on the multimeter while pushing up the tilt switch. Then repeat for pin 12 and 8. Then just work my way down each row of the chart (except last row test should result in an open circuit). Is that correct?

 

[sheltonfilms]

This is awesome. Thank you for providing this. Now I just need to find the time to sit and fiddle with this.

Just to be sure my testing procedure is right, I put my multimeter into continuity/circuit mode, and (for example, the top row test) put my multimeter common contact on pin 12, and the other contact on pin 3, and i should see continuity indicated on the multimeter while pushing up the tilt switch. Then repeat for pin 12 and 8. Then just work my way down each row of the chart (except last row test should result in an open circuit). Is that correct?

You got it.

 

[sheltonfilms]

@HMayes

Get a chance to look at it yet? Any updates?