Destroying 4406s after more SOA lift

[Spudhut]

I am going to SAS the front of my Ex. Is there another front slip yoke that could be used instead of the flange yoke that is there factory? or is it best to use a slip shaft type driveshaft? I did not pull the driveshafts from the F150 I pulled my 4406 from, I'm anticipating to pull them on another trip. I'd better make sure I get the right ones so I don't have to have them custom made...

@rabbit91 - what rear driveshaft are you using? im going to do a shackle kit and SOA the rear as well.

I do have a front DC front driveshaft from Earlier Gen2 Ex.

Your Direction is appreciated

 

[Spudhut]

@boominXplorer

Yes you'll have to adjust pinion angle toward tcase.

Could you explain "adjusting pinion angle"? Is this adding angle when setting the front straight axle in place?

 

[boominXplorer]

Could you explain "adjusting pinion angle"? Is this adding angle when setting the front straight axle in place?

You only adjust the front pinion angle when you have a ton of lift and have the ability to cut and turn the C's. To use a 1st gen shaft you have to get the correct adapter flange. @delexploder has a link handy for this. I run the flange on a 1st gen shaft also with my 4406 / superlift setup.

In the rear you can add wedge shims to adjust the pinion angle or if your SOA you can weld on the perches right where you need them. You need to figure out the angle at ride height and take shackle length into consideration if your making any changes.

 

[Spudhut]

@boominXplorer - Cut and turn C's, wedges.... I completely understand.

Not sure if you know, What is the ideal caster measurement of the front axle that most are using when setting up SAS? I built a few straight axle drag cars and early roadsters. I would always set the axle in the range of 7-10 degrees (9 being ideal) measured off the kingpin on each side.

 

[rabbit91]

The fix ended up being me going to a double Cardon shaft out of a navagator/expedition and setting the pinion angle accordingly. I set it 1* lower than being pointed straight with the shaft. Would be nice if the shaft was an inch or two longer but with SOA and some decent leafs it’s been fine. Unfortunately the ujoints are smaller in this shaft.

I believe the problem I was having with the rattling before was the driveshaft being too long, it didn’t bottom out and a few driveshaft places had told me it was the perfect length (1-1.5” before bottoming out) but it seems as though the slip yolk on the driveshaft wasn’t supported the entire way on the tcase output shaft causing it to wobble. Only the rear portion of the output shaft has splines supporting the slip yolk.

 

[rabbit91]

I am going to SAS the front of my Ex. Is there another front slip yoke that could be used instead of the flange yoke that is there factory? or is it best to use a slip shaft type driveshaft? I did not pull the driveshafts from the F150 I pulled my 4406 from, I'm anticipating to pull them on another trip. I'd better make sure I get the right ones so I don't have to have them custom made...

@rabbit91 - what rear driveshaft are you using? im going to do a shackle kit and SOA the rear as well.

I do have a front DC front driveshaft from Earlier Gen2 Ex.

Your Direction is appreciated

I would run a double cardon shaft in the front. It helped me to clear the tranny cross member (I hacked it up a bit)

Depending on your desired height, you might not need longer shackles. I have a bunch of expo/f150/xj leafs rearched and mixed and matched to get my desired height.

While you are going SOA you’ll be able to set your pinion angle easily