My new 347

Teaser pic. Should ship today.
More to come when I get my hands on it.

Where's that hard-on Smilie?

Professionally built stock bottom end by Ford Strokers 28oz imbalance crank
Wiseco pistons, shooting for around 9.6 to 1 comp.
gt40p heads ported (by Thumper) with 1.94/1.54 SS undercut valves and upgraded springs. Intake ports measured 140cc
Custom cam designed with my rear mount turbo in mind

28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth
TCS Torque converter shooting for 2400 (1800 stock) stall. Single over-sized clutch for lockup to try to get that turbo spooling, and weight moving.
Trick Flow Track Heat intake
Scorpion Endurance Series Rocker Arms SCC-SCP3021BL
Rocker Arm Channel Kit M-6588-A50
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kit M-6529-A302
Head Dowels TFS-51400420
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16
Pushrod Length Checker TFS-9000
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits M-6529-A302
water pump reverse rotation GMB-125-1960
Oil Pump Melling M68
ARP Head Studs @ 80lbs w moly
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kits 1 54-7904
ARP High Flexplate Bolt Kits 100-2901
PCV Valve EV127A
push rods: Chromoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 6.250 in. Length, Ball/Ball Ends Comp Cams CCA-8400-16

gaskets:
header gasket remflex 3028 or Earls Pressure Master 29D03AERL
oil pan gasket Fel-Pro OS34508R
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1
lower intake: Fel-Pro FEL-1250s3
Oil Pan Gasket FEL-OS13260T
Bolt O ring oil filter adapter FOTZ6749B
Block O ring oil filter adapter F6TZ6L621AA edit: it was for too large of a circle. I had to cut it back and use ultrablack to ensure a seal.

Crank bearings....Very sad story on my new motor
695-MS590HX x 1 MAIN BEARING SET Standard Size
695-CB634P20 x 8 CONNECTING ROD BEARING 20 thou undersized for cut crank
edit...New cam synchro gear needed. Shaft size .531 Use a steel gear

edit:
moved to Twisted Wedge fac 170 heads
Pushrods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7"
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers
Custom FTI cam
Morel link bar lifters
rollmaster timing set
Fel-Pro 1133SD4 MLS head gaskets

Strategy is REAC4A2 for Tuning

Siemens Deka 63lbs/hr EV6 Injector Part #108191
Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump, part #11542

 

[Dono]

You always have all the stuff, lol.
Its Just so hard to get that egr tube to line up nicely when making a new elbow.

Maybe I will just order up a new egr valve. I can always reduce egr function rather than remove it.
Then once I get the rest of the intake piping upgraded (2.5" from 2" from the turbo) , I might take you up on the elbow.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd block the EGR ASAP for your testing, to see if that helps a lot. If the EGR can "seep" in boost applications, that would be an answer to whether to keep EGR.
I didn't know you were still going through the stock elbow and TB. Boost minimizes the negatives of smaller ports etc, but there is still HP to gain with bigger TB and inlet paths etc.

I'm going to make a larger elbow for my 306 project, and I'm wondering if 3.25" AL pipe is available, or if 3.5" is easier and still doable. I think a 75mm TB will be enough for a NA 306, but for your boosted 347, I'd aim for a 90mm at least, in that round TB setup.

 

[Dono]

I'm 3 inch after the throttle body, but neck down to 2" as I go thru the wheel well, and stay 2" to the turbo. Once I get rid of the 2" with the crush bends, I'll be interested to see if I end up with more lag, or even notice and difference at all with iat's, etc. I'm expecting there to be a performance increase (Or I wouldn't be wasting my time).

 

[Dono]

I found the size of the cap needed for the exhaust manifold
5/8 pipe cap....Brass with a rounded head. Used to cap off natural gas lines.

Tim, I'll take you up on the block off plate. No rush at all.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

K. I'll have to find it. Should be on top of the tool box. All it is is a chunk of think sheet metal with the bolt holes drilled into it. Pretty simple.

 

[Dono]

Yea, I can look around home. I thought I had one already done also, but havn't seen it for years. I'll have another look
I might have a chunk of metal I can form also.

 

[willzilla]

I assume the EGR block off plate for your 347 is the same as the one from the 96-04 mustang gt v8s? I bought one off eBay a few years ago that worked perfectly, though, oddly enough the 302 explorer engine uses the EGR block off plate that fits the 4.6l mustang 96-2004... like this, Mustang 4.6L Billet EGR Block Off delete ford gt crownvic 96-04 w/Gasket 969096G | eBay.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ooh, that's slick, with countersunk bolts too.

 

[Dono]

Its nice. Probably would be the right size also.

I'm struggling with the other side of the egr tube. Blocking it off with a 5/8" pipe cap isn't turning out to be easy. 5/8" pipe is not common here.
I ordered a !0an cap to try. It's 5/8" 14pt, so I think it will work.

A new egr valve showed up today. I know there will be all kinds of swearing trying to get the egr pipe off of the valve though. Every direction has its challenges.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

see, here is the thing.
im cheap, and i normally try to drag don into it with me lol
i have some scrap steel kicking around that i am going to drill some holes into and make a block off for both don and myself. if dons fitting doesnt work, i am almost sure that i found a nut that has the correct threads on it. if i do, im going to weld a cap on the top of it, and we will use those if all fails

 

[Dono]

And......3-4 shift flare. I guess I'll be adding trans work to my summer list.
For now, I'm just going to set 3-4 shift so it cant happen before 55mph. I think it probably should have been set around there anyway. Gotta hate it.
I still have night mares of doing the clean, jerk, and hold on Tims 4r70w while his truck was on the lift. Heavy.....hows that for an understatement? lol

 

[CDW6212R]

Is that with or without the transfer case on it? That is the tough part, lining up the dowels and TC studs etc.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I still have night mares of doing the clean, jerk, and hold on Tims 4r70w while his truck was on the lift. Heavy.....hows that for an understatement? lol

yea, that whole scenario just had a circle with a line drawn threw it. hell, a few weeks back when i asked kyle to help me put the trans in another truck i have, first thing he said "we arent putting it in the way we did evils are we???'

however, the good news, we now have a trans jack. even more better news, we have evils old trans still sitting under the bench if need be. the only problem with that might be wiring differences, and a shift kit that you just might hate. even more goodder news, i do have a great trans guy who is extremely reasonable for pricing, and if need be, fast as hell for turn around.
hate to say it don, but this isnt surprising me. you've been trouble free now for how long? that and the mileage, and power thats going threw that trains ment its days were numbered.

 

[Dono]

lol, yea the trans does get abused some. I think the trans gets abused even more just because of all the weight we are trying to get moving so fast.

On the way to work, I could already tell that moving the shift point of 4th up to 55mph helped hide the issue a lot. I'll wait till it warms up, and I have a spare vehicle to drive. Once the trans is out there won't be a rush for rebuild that way.

I remember that shift kit in that trans you have. Your right, I'm not keen on driving around churping my tires on every upshift and downshift. It's a bit aggressive for my daily driver. Even with the lentech valve body I have I had to back right off on line pressure for the 2-1 shift.

Don, I don't know on the weight. Heavy and awkward, that's alI know. I can't remember if the transfer case was still attached, I don't think so though. Lifting something that heavy and trying to get it aligned properly was not fun. This time, with the truck closer to the ground and a working trans jack we should be far better off.

I'll have to get to a muffler shop and get a joint made for that cross-over pipe that is in the way. I have a v-band clamp, I just need to make sure the guy installing it has done some before and is comfortable with the right way of doing it.

I'm not looking forward to dealing with that transfer case either. I'm hoping that once I actually start the job it wont be so bad. Usually that's the case.

I did walk by a new escape at Costco yesterday, and it looked mighty appealing, lol.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Case won't be fun getting off. I remember us silconing it......

 

[4pointslow]

How many miles were on that transmission anyway?

 

[Dono]

No idea, I know the trans was rebuilt before I bought the truck.
I think I've put on about 40-50000 miles on it.
A Lentech valve body went in last fall. The valve body came with solenoids.
I'm kinda wondering if it might be either a gasket blowing out, or the shift solenoid pack.

Why I'm kinda thinking solenoid is that last fall (Just before Christmas, so I guess that would be winter) when the pan came off it looked surprisingly clean (I expected to see quite a bit of clutch material).

I'm going to email Lentech and ask if the valve body had a new solenoid pack. It might be worth dropping the pan and changing this before dropping the whole tranny.

 

[CDW6212R]

The solenoids can be changed for each gear etc, the TC also. The EPC solenoid is the main pressure solenoid. If they were old or off brands I might suggest them, but it sounds like either test line pressures, or it needs work in the VB or the wear items(clutches). Does Lentech install any Sonnax upgrades, even the simple o-ring kit that reduces fluid leaks?

The accumulators have a big effect on the 1/2/3 gears, but not the 4th. If the OD band was actually slipping, there are longer OD pistons which could help that some. But usually with OD slippage, the band is quickly worn too much to fix much.

I'm about to be building 1-4 of the 4R's this year. I suggest rebuilding one with a special Forward drum from Sonnax. They have two choices, one is about $150 and the other about $185(takes one more clutch). Both are stronger and a good piece for higher power apps.

 

[Dono]

Once in 4th, the is no slippage that I can see on the tach, or feel. I have not logged the issue, but its clearly a 3-4 flair that happens. with the 4th shift set to happen at 55mph and above(only light load) I'm not in and out of 4th much now. I think I wont be causing further damage to the trans while I sort this out.

Chris at Lentech has been emailed, and I'm really leaning towards trying the solenoid. No idea what Lentech does to their valve bodies. Thanks for he tip on that Sonnax drum, and: if the trans comes out, a strong drum will go on the parts list.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

when i had evils first trans done, my friend that did it for me (not the guy that did the t case for you, the guy that does trans for a living) did tell me that the 4th band in these trans are known to go from leaving it in o/d. he had said mind did have some black marks on it.
fast forward when i bought brads stroker truck, i remember him telling me shortly after putting it all together, it was slipping as well. they had to pull the trans out, and send it back to lentec for warranty. i am guessing the same problem. brad had also said that from that day on, he never had it in o/d unless he was on the highway. wounder if that might be the same problem your having.