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Thanks, and thank you for the rockauto link also.

So which do you use, I see them with 1 5/8, 1 3/4, and 2 degrees available, I'm guessing for lowered or raised vehicles you need more degree adjustability, my truck is stock, no plans to raise or lower it.

Thank you, I plan on having it aligned as I already bought tires for it, but I didn't plan on putting them on till after it was aligned anyways.

These are the factory washers/shims I have, the non adjustable ones that are preset from the factory, but the previous owner didn't mark them or install them back correctly and so my wheels are kinda like this / \. You can see they have an offset to each shim and a flat side for the bolt, but...

I know this is an old thread but I am having the same troubles. The previous owner I bought my truck from installed new upper control arms and never marked the bolts, and so some of the camber washers/shims where backwards and even upside down, and I been searching everywhere online trying to...

Got it fixed it was the new standard t157 tps sensor, when I put a new motorcraft tps sensor on took care of the problem.

Well the problem is back, it was idling high again, so I did the idle set procedure by letting the truck warm up, disconnecting the iac, and setting the throttle plate screw down to about 600 rpm. With the iac unplugged the truck would idle smoothly around 600 or so rpm, but if you touched the...

I don't have a tachometer but I do have a scan tool and multimeter, so I removed the IAC even though it is almost new and cleaned it, and set the TPS voltage to .98 at idle and that seemed to fix the problem and clear the code.

I been searching the internet for an answer, but still a bit complexed. My 98 Ranger 2.5 has an issue, P0122, high idle, no other codes thrown. I bought this truck with this issue, I did however put a new TPS sensor on the truck, but the idle remains the same. I did test the TPS sensor and...

That's awesome how difficult was the wiring? That's a nice boost in horsepower and torque. I wonder how much better the fuel mileage will be.

Krylon Fusion satin black is what most have used.

the 01-03 Explorer Sport an 01-05 Sport Trac use the same short and long consoles either will work, the 95-01 Explorer/Mountaineer short and long consoles will also fit, the 02-up Explorer/Mountaineer are different and don't line up with the dash. As for the 01-03/01-05 Sport/Sport Trac console...

Nice swap, first 3.7 swap I've seen yet, looking forward to more of it.

Nope the earlier won't work, because the later 01-05 has the extra OSS sensor on that transmission which is needed.

It's cool, I am not really a fan of Ford's 4.0 Sohc engine. 1 guy on here did a 4BT swap in his Sport Trac which was pretty cool.

No problem, I like the Sport Tracs, but I wish the first gen would have at least got the 5.0 or 4.6 as an option, since the second gen had the 4.6 option.

I am pretty sure it is made by Cloyes, because I have looked at 2000StreetRod's posts about the differences between the Ford and Cloyes parts. The timing guides have the circlips on them also as stated in his posts. I was just going to sell the complete kit pretty cheap, I listed it on...

I actually have an entire inner fire timing kit 9-0398SX I never used, I believe it is made by Cloyes, that has the oil restrictor tube, the oil galley plug, the front and rear tensioners with washers, the timing chains, and front and rear guides as well as the balance chain and guide. I was...

I don't remember having to take it off, I might have. If so I would just take it loose from the intake with the 2 bolts that hold it on, rather than wrestling with the tube itself. I didn't have to disconnect any fuel injectors on the drivers side, mainly it was just unplugging and removing...

Yea the passenger side valve cover gasket was harder and took longer to change for me also than the driver's side. There is barely any wiggle room to get it out, and that back bottom valve cover bolt was a nuisance, unplugging the injectors wasn't to easy either. Driver's side only trouble I had...

I did this job not long ago, I didn't have to disconnect any injectors on the drivers side, the only real issue was loosening the fuel line enough to gain clearance to remove the valve cover. I don't remember having to take the egr loose, but it's not hard to do if you just remove it from the...

I believe this is what you are looking for. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Backup+Lamp+Switch/01945/C0039.oap?keyword=reverse&year=2001&make=Ford&model=Ranger&vi=1438304

You can pretty much search any website on google by simply putting in the search term followed by the website like this - splash guard site:www.mysporttrac.com or say for this site - splash guard site:www.explorerforum.com I do it sometimes because I can also click on images and find pictures...

I've done both valve cover gaskets and for me the passenger side was harder than the driver's side. That lower back bolt on the passenger side needed a 1/4" swivel and extensions, and I had to disconnect the rear most fuel injector, to be able to lift the valve cover up out of place. The...

If there is water in your air box then there's a good chance some got sucked into the engine cylinders as well. If it were me, I would pull a spark plug or a few of them and check the cylinders for water, if there is water in the cylinders it be best to pull all the spark plugs and get it out.