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I was going to say bad connection, which it sounds like you found. My Mustang had similar issue this spring when the clamp end of the negative cable had a small break. It would power everything but as soon as you tried to start it, dead. Wiggled the connector and 'rinse-repeat.'

Not sure what other video you referencing and why the Haynes manual would state the pins are pressed in. The pins are definitely not pressed in and can be removed to grease them. You're right, that makes no sense as the pins need to be removed to lubed. This video (5:40) shows the same as the...

I wonder if the rattle is the wastegate. I think when those go bad they can rattle. As for your fuel trims being high, if you have misfires, the engine actually sees that as a lean issue so it adds more fuel. Are there any pending codes for misfires? Also, if your O2 sensor is 'lazy' it could...

You're talking about SOHC? That wouldn't be for 5th gen then since the V6 is DOHC.

FYI 1995E fixed his problem 9+ years ago (see post 39 literally just above yours). Also, post 18 said basically the same thing about sticking pins.

You can hold the throttle pedal to the floor while cranking the engine for a few seconds to build pressure in the system as 410Fortune said (a couple years back in post above). Holding the pedal to the floor puts ECU in 'Flood Clear' mode which does not fire the injectors (no fuel) so you can...

What kind of key fob do you have? Is it keyless version or one with actual key? The keyless fobs have a hidden key inside. I don't think the actual key version has a hidden key. As J_C said, odd that if you have the key version that it doesn't unlock the door.

I'm on the fence as well. I checked both of mine and they seem tight. Will be 10 yrs old in less than a week (~130k miles). I'd be curious to know what they are changing to 'improve' it.

As an engineer, I bet the $$ pinchers said no. $1 savings per vehicle adds up quick (and that savings probably doesn't get passed to the consumer). $1 here, $1 there......cha-ching says the manufacture.

Unfortunately in MN, winter didn't arrive this year, at least not in the Southern half. I think we got a total of 7" of snow in Minneapolis, which is almost 2 feet below normal. Crazy because last year we had almost 90" (3rd snowiest on record).

E85 is 85% ethanol and 15% straight gasoline. E15 is only 15% ethanol. Here in MN we have 88 Octane which is usually listed as E15. The most common fuel is up to 10% ethanol. ☝️ This.

Depending on how handy you are, you can probably pull the terminals out of the connector and put a new/longer length of wire in there. I don't know the inner workings of that specific connector, but I'm guessing if you pull the white + shaped piece out from inside the connector, the terminals...

Unless the wires shorted and need other components replaced, I don't see why the wires can't just be reconnected. Which part of the wire was chewed through? Was it between the sensor and the connector, or between the connector and the ECU? If the former, the sensor is only $100, but I believe...

The rears are most likely the standard ones. As you mentioned, you have non-vented rotors. Also, if you look at the caliper bracket, the bottom of the caliper bracket is not straight, it has an arc. That's from the standard rear brakes. Ignore the clips that are in the #3 boxes in your original...

Can you post some pictures of your rear brakes? Are you able to reach your to the rear rotor and feel if it's vented? Also, the PN is AG1Z2C026A, which appears to be non-vented. Same as MOTORCRAFT BRRF70 If this link works. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3001530&cc=3443033&pt=1896

As @dvdswan said, get a mechanical gauge and hook it up to the engine to see actual pressure. The oil pressure sensor/switch are known to go bad on occasion, causing incorrect report of pressure. Usually replacing the sensor/switch resolve the issue...assuming actual oil pressure is good.

I replaced mine last fall. It's a bit of a tight space to get to, but I'd say doable in less than 1hr. The rear screw that holds the actuator in place is the difficult one. I could only do like a 1/8 of a turn at a time, but at least the screws are coarse thread. I think the other...

I heard about this on a Facebook group (well, 2 of them). Based on some of the responses, this should also solve world hunger. 😆

How many miles on vehicle and how old is the serpentine belt? At around 60k miles, when I'd drive when it was raining (or behind vehicles with lots of spray), my belt would slip a bit and I could see lights dim and the wipers would slow down (no dash lights). Every so often, I would get a belt...

That shouldn't happen. There is no direct link between the pedal and throttle body like older cars. With the car off, see if you can replicate it. Try pushing the pedal down with pressure in different areas to see if there's one that makes it repeatable. If you can recreate it, stick you head...

That sounds about right. I believe I noticed the same thing that it needed higher rpm for heat until all the air was out. Took a few cycles, but all the air eventually worked its way out.

Just to be safe, did you check the dipstick to make sure it's not leaking into the crankcase? What I did was fill up the tank and squeeze the upper hose a bunch of times. That seemed to help a little bit. Also, when I first started driving after replacing water pump, I could hear air/coolant...

1/2-20?

I would do it again myself since I learned some of the ins/outs of the process and because I'm also cheap. It would need to be less than $1000 all in if I were to pay someone to do it. I've only done it once, but I will say it took me close to 15 hours total with I think at least 1 hr just f'n...

I just replaced the front brakes for the first time on my 14 Sport with just over 125k miles. About 2 months back I checked the front brakes because they were squeaking sometimes. Turns out the inner pad was really stuck in the bracket, had to take a hammer to remove it. I cleaned/greased them...