3.5 EB Waterpump replacement/Manuals

[isstatu1]

Working with a 2016 Sport with the 3.5 Ecoboost engine. The water pump is leaking, and I'm slowly gathering the parts/knowledge to replace the water pump. I believe I have all of the parts but I'm only wondering about the procedure. Are there step-by-step manuals for this job? I'm mostly worried about the torque values.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
If the pump is leaking, stop driving it immediately if you haven't already. Otherwise, you could be looking at an engine replacement as well.
Perhaps this may help. Found it using the 'Search' feature at the upper right.

List of Useful Threads - 3.5L Water pump replacement - Gotchya's

When I have some more time I'll try to add other information, but figured I'd share some of the mistakes/thoughts from replacing the water pump last weekend. BTW....I have a 2013 Limited with a 3.5L Naturally Aspirated First off....I referenced the online video's by Robinson Auto (he did a...

www.explorerforum.com

Water pump replacement parts list This talks about a manual.

Peter

 

[isstatu1]

Ok so I replaced the coolant pump this weekend as well as the thermostat. Now having trouble bleeding the coolant. I add the coolant to the owerflow tank, put the cap back on, go for a short drive. The engine temp rises over the middle and would probably get to hot if id let it to. I stop, give it a couple of minutes to cool off, twist the owerflow cap and the air bubbles start rushing to the expansion tank. Then after it fills up, it drains all the way and leaves the expansion tank empty. I add more coolant to the mark and go for another drive. I did this about 3 times. Also, no heat in the car. Should I just keep doing that until finally I don't have to add any more coolant or am I missing something here?

 

[peterk9]

Ok so I replaced the coolant pump this weekend as well as the thermostat. Now having trouble bleeding the coolant. I add the coolant to the owerflow tank, put the cap back on, go for a short drive. The engine temp rises over the middle and would probably get to hot if id let it to. I stop, give it a couple of minutes to cool off, twist the owerflow cap and the air bubbles start rushing to the expansion tank. Then after it fills up, it drains all the way and leaves the expansion tank empty. I add more coolant to the mark and go for another drive. I did this about 3 times. Also, no heat in the car. Should I just keep doing that until finally I don't have to add any more coolant or am I missing something here?

Did you replace the timing chain and associated parts as well when you had it apart?
It has been a few years since I've had an Explorer. Does the radiator have a cap?

Peter

 

[Odrapnew]

Just to be safe, did you check the dipstick to make sure it's not leaking into the crankcase?

What I did was fill up the tank and squeeze the upper hose a bunch of times.
That seemed to help a little bit.

Also, when I first started driving after replacing water pump, I could hear air/coolant moving through the heater core. It slowly went away as air bled out and I added more coolant, but each time I had to rev the engine a little higher to force the air out.
You can do that in the garage just by revving it in park.

Feel the hoses that go to/from the heater core to see if they are getting warm/hot.

 

[isstatu1]

Just to be safe, did you check the dipstick to make sure it's not leaking into the crankcase?

What I did was fill up the tank and squeeze the upper hose a bunch of times.
That seemed to help a little bit.

Also, when I first started driving after replacing water pump, I could hear air/coolant moving through the heater core. It slowly went away as air bled out and I added more coolant, but each time I had to rev the engine a little higher to force the air out.
You can do that in the garage just by revving it in park.

Feel the hoses that go to/from the heater core to see if they are getting warm/hot.

Did another oil change just in case, oil came out clean. I've started the car and held it at 3500rpm for a minute. Then turned it off, filled a little more coolant. Another minute at 3500rpm and the heat kicked in. Took it for a drive, no more overheating but the heater only kicks in when it's over 2000rpm. I'll continue doing the same tomorrow and see if I can get the heater functioning properly.

 

[Odrapnew]

That sounds about right.
I believe I noticed the same thing that it needed higher rpm for heat until all the air was out.
Took a few cycles, but all the air eventually worked its way out.

 

[PlatinumOwner]

Just had my 3.5L EcoBoost water pump changed under warranty, parts list in this link 2017 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L Duratec Water Pump starting to leak

 

[texsn95]

Maybe jack up the front right as far as you can, so any air air bubbles may migrate over to the puke tank?

Just had my 3.5L EcoBoost water pump changed under warranty, parts list in this link 2017 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L Duratec Water Pump starting to leak

They will be testing mine today, so hopefully I'll get the same result as you. The coolant level was down again by an ~1inch, a week after adding a quart to the tank, so it's got to be going somewhere!

 

[mguy13sport]

To get the air out Leave the fill cap off and let it idle for a while (at least 20-30 mins)

 

[isstatu1]

After drives I just open up the overflow cap and a couple more bubbles came up. At this point I think there's no more air in the system. Thank you for all the help!