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Look at the end links, ball joints and tie rod ends. I would just replace the end links since they are very difficult to pinpoint, theyre easy to do and theyre cheap.

There's also the throttle postion sensor, but I would think that would cause you problems all of the time, not just on startup.

Some play in the rack is normal. Have you checked the tie rod ends and ball joints. I doubt they would cause this noise but they could contribute to worn wheel bearings. I assume the noise is when you are driving? Slow or fast - does it go away? Sound like a low grinding? Does it change...

Tighten them up until they touch the drum and then back them off 6-8 notches.

Mine are new (6 months)

The tire iron should be in the rear compartment with the jack. The spare tire extension is behind the rear seats

I've got the same thing but it only happens in reverse?! I found a sticking caliper, freed it up and it went away for a couple of days but I think it was a coincidence. It's back. It only happens when I back up and lightly apply the brakes, usually while turning. If I don't apply the...

check the driver's side

Yes, the entire hub assembly is $160-180

If you haven't replaced your end links and bushings, I would start there. They're cheap and easy to replace

Glad it worked out

How do you gap them (you're talking about the 2+, correct)? I know they say they are "pre-gapped" but I have never had a plug that didn't need to be corrected.

Just asking - I know they check it here.

You may not pass inspection?

Did you lose a wheel weight?

I know you said you don't think its the stabalizer bushings but they they wear out frequently. Have someone push down on the bumper while you look and listen. If you have a piece of tubing (paper towel tube even) or stethoscope, it will help isolate the noise. I would also use oil instead...

Do NOT use Bosch - there are more reports of people having problems with Spit-fire (aka Splitfire) than probably any other plug. Autolites are also decent (Motorcraft and Autolites are made by Honeywell).

There's also a metal tag bolted to the pumpkin

Use oil or grease (grease is hard to get in though)- silicone dries up.

If I understand the part you are talking about...I have never replaced mine (105k) - just cleaned them and cleaned under them to remove rust build-up. They're stainless and prevent the pad ear from rusting to the pad slide and binding up.

I believe they're dual in the front, single in the back

If this is the case, then you have REALLY bad bearings

They fit on the pad or on the caliper bracket?

I was referring to the pad itself - it looked like it was worn evenly which was kind of surprising. I will probably replace it this weekend. Any advice? How concerned do I have to be about getting air in the master cylinder?

I thought the same thing but it looked decent.