How to: 1 SOHC V6 Engine Removal Procedure

[2000StreetRod]

Engine to trans alignment

It is important to align the crankshaft axis with the transmission axis by adjusting the lift chains to avoid damaging the transmission seal when removing and installing an engine.

You may want to look thru the following thread starting with page 20:
SOHC V6 Timing Chain Saga

Make sure the torque converter does not slide off the transmission input shaft when removing the engine.

Using the replacement engine installed flexplate will save some time.

The crankshaft position doesn't matter for an assembled engine.

 

[derek_redneck91]

Thanks! That thread clears some things up. The odd thing is how much of a PITA that spacer plate looks like it is going to be. I just took a 77 351w and tranny apart and the hardest part was getting the spacer plate off the block! I'm going to try the blunt chisel idea to hug the plate to the alignment studs. I'll be using your threads th whole way. I'm glad to hear the amount of success people have had with this.

 

[derek_redneck91]

Well all I have to say is this whole process was a royal PITA! Apparantly someone has previously replaced the torque converter and when they put it all back together they used thread locker on the transmission to engine bolts and put them at over 120ft lb of torque. I had to take the tranny mount bolts off, disconnect front and rear driveshafts, and then raise and move the engine and transmission forward in order to get clearance to loosen the bolts. That brings me to another point. Street rod you are one lucky guy that you have 2 wheel drive. The front axle is in the way for the starter and makes taking it and the torque converter bolts off another pain. I took the torque converter out after i removed the engine and inspected and cleaned it, then put it back in. I have had one hell of a time with the exhaust manifolds on the new motor. The bolts holding the flanges on are so rotten and messed up that 4 hours of messing around didnt get them out. I have been working on this since tuesday. But after swapping oil pans I have found out just how bad the timing chain components on my old engine were. I found plastic and metal pieces all up in the oil pickup. The new motor is spotless. Hope to get it in tonight and hear my truck run with a new heart!

 

[derek_redneck91]

New motor is in and running like a champ! Idles quiet, no chain rattle whatsoever, no oil leaks, no vibrations, just pure awesomeness. I don't know many other 21 year olds that would attempt something like this on their daily drivers. Such a hard job getting everything on and lined up. Especially the starter and torque converter bolts. ZERO room when you got a front axle in the way! Also, there's a surprising amount of room without an ac pump and canister in the way.

 

[2000StreetRod]

congratulations!

I hope that your replacement engine provides many years of reliable service.

 

[derek_redneck91]

So do I! The old motor wasn't going to last very much longer. Here's what was in the oil pickup of the old motor.

Plastic chunks and metal chips. Who knows how long that has been circulating through my motor. Rest of the pictures can be viewed in the album here http://s1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg532/d_mann2/Motor%20Swap/

 

[SinistrV6]

Great write-up! It's help this old Chevy guy get ALMOST to the point of pulling this broken 4.0 out of the '04 Sport Trac I got yesterday. I'm down to the converter bolts and I can only rotate the motor enough to get two of them out. The crank bolt is (I feel) on the verge of snapping off. I've pulled three of the plugs (DS) and I'm about to got try and get the other three out to let all compression out.

Anything else on these motors that could cause this? It would spin over with the starter earlier today. Definitely has water in at least one cylinder, btw.

 

[SinistrV6]

I got the other three plugs out and the motor is still locked up. Because it won't rotate, I'll probably have to remove the transmission and motor as one unit. I've pulled and installed many, many motors and trannys and keeping them together is usually the easiest and recommended method. Any reason not to do it this way on a 2WD Explorer?

 

[scdix50]

Can you just pull the engine with converter still on the engine. Slide a catch pan under, pull the engine out enought to drain the converter. Un-bolt the converter out on the floor.

 

[2000StreetRod]

engine with torque converter

The engine can be pulled with the torque converter attached. When doing it this way it is very important to keep the crankshaft axis aligned with the transmission input shaft axis or the seals may be damaged.

 

[SinistrV6]

That can be done, of course. The possibility of damage to the transmission/TC/Seals is increased doing it that way, but it can be done.

Why not pull the trans/motor together? is there something I'm missing? It's a 2WD truck and the trans crossmember unbolts to make getting the angle easier.

Thanks for all of the replies!

 

[FordRanger04]

That can be done, of course. The possibility of damage to the transmission/TC/Seals is increased doing it that way, but it can be done.

Why not pull the trans/motor together? is there something I'm missing? It's a 2WD truck and the trans crossmember unbolts to make getting the angle easier.

Thanks for all of the replies!

Pulling the engine and transmission together is the only way to go on a vehicle with a 4.0 SOHC.
But this is definitely a 2 person job.
I just pulled and replaced the engine in my 2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 and it was a nightmare.
If I have to do this again, I'll probably remove the cab.

 

[racetrackdon]

Are you nuts

 

[mjstef]

Pulling the engine and transmission together is the only way to go on a vehicle with a 4.0 SOHC.
But this is definitely a 2 person job.
I just pulled and replaced the engine in my 2001 Ford Ranger 4X4 and it was a nightmare.
If I have to do this again, I'll probably remove the cab.

Seems like removing the cab would be pretty easy. Takes a little over 1/2 hour on a Superduty....

 

[Sedition]

1 bolt, top passenger side...

Hi, I'm removing the engine from another Explorer I'm doing the timing chains on and I'm stuck on how to remove the top engine to transmission bolt on the passenger side (US).

Do you have any pointers on removing that particular bolt? I'm heading over to the store now to get more 3/8" extensions to try to reach from the back of the 4x4 Trans.

I can't do it from inside the cab either as it's a floor shift.

 

[Sedition]

I got it done. I used 4' of 3/8" extensions and a universal joint extension with a breaker bar. There was a lot of flex in all that but I got it.

 

[jon_s_brady]

StreetRod, with reference to your post #22... I'm not sure I understand why you marked the torque converter bolt. Is it essential to put the stud through the same hole upon reassembly?

 

[2000StreetRod]

factory balance

StreetRod, with reference to your post #22... I'm not sure I understand why you marked the torque converter bolt. Is it essential to put the stud through the same hole upon reassembly?

It's my understanding that the torque converter/flexplate assembly is balanced at the factory. Marking the original position and reassembling accordingly maintains that balance. Of course this is not possible when replacing either the torque converter or the flexplate. I doubt that you would notice any difference if the balance is not maintained.

 

[jon_s_brady]

I've got the engine out and on a stand and am trying to get the heads off. I've broken two sockets/torn bit adapters trying to break these bolts free...any suggestions on how to loosen them?

 

[eyoung429]

I don't recall seeing any 3rd generation SOHC V6 step-by-step removal procedures but I don't pay much attention to that subforum. I believe that you have a one piece intake manifold so if it has to be removed to remove the valve covers it will be easier than on the 2nd generation.
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You might search for "valve cover removal" or "intake manifold gasket replacement" or something similar.

I HATE THIS INTAKE!!!! That back bolt on the drivers side is a mother to get to.