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2003 Centennial 4.6L Engine Removal

Discussion in 'Under the Hood' started by 2000StreetRod, December 8, 2017.

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    1. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      104. Disconnect the heater supply hose from the block.
      HtrBlkOut.jpg

      105. Disconnect the heater supply hose (red arrow below) from the firewall manifold.
      HtrHosFirwll.jpg
      106. Disconnect the heater return hose (yellow arrow above) from the firewall manifold.

      107. Disconnect the heater control valve vacuum hose (red arrow below).
      HtrCntrlVlv1.jpg
      108. Position catch pan & disconnect the heater control valve supply hose (yellow arrow above).

      109. Disconnect vacuum hose to vacuum reservoir.
      VacResHoseCnx.jpg
       
      Last edited: January 8, 2018
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    3. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      110. Detach the engine main wiring harness from the firewall retainers.
      EngHrnsBrkt1.jpg

      111. Disconnect PCM connector C175c (yellow arrow below).
      PCMCnx.jpg
      112. Disconnect connector C1168 (red arrow above).

      113. Unscrew wiring harness retainer on firewall passenger side.
      EngHrnsBrkt2.jpg
      The retainer isn't actually threaded but its easier to unscrew than pry off & possibly break it.

      114. Remove stud/bolt and engine ground strap terminal.
      EngHrnsGndStud.jpg

      115. Separate engine wiring harness from transmission wiring harness.
      EnTHrnsCnx.jpg

      116. Carefully coil the brittle wiring harness on the top of the engine.
       
      Last edited: January 8, 2018
    4. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      117. Disconnect the pre-cat O2 sensor on the driver side.
      O2SnsrD.jpg
      It was easier to access the sensor from above but I couldn't depress the release tab. Working under the vehicle I managed to pull the wire with one finger and depress the tab with a finger on my other hand.

      118. Remove the driver side downpipe to exhaust manifold inboard retaining nut.
      DnPpDrvrInb.jpg
      Soaking the nut & stud with rust solvent made it easier to remove the nut. I used a 15 mm 6 point deep well socket with a 1/2 inch drive.
      SktDpDvrIbd.jpg

      119. Remove the driver side downpipe to exhaust manifold outboard retaining nut.
      DnPpDrvrObd.jpg
      I used a 15 mm 6 point deep well socket with a 1/2 inch drive.
      SktDpDvrObd.jpg

      120. Disconnect the pre-cat O2 sensor on the passenger side.
      O2SnsrP.jpg
      Mine was not mounted to the engine block so from under the vehicle I was able to pull it down far enough to disconnect it. Otherwise, it may be necessary to remove the heat shield next to it for access.

      121. Remove the passenger side downpipe to exhaust manifold upper retaining nut.
      DnPpPassUpr.jpg
      I thought I would have to remove the O2 sensor to get a socket on it but was able to using the socket combination shown below.
      SktDpPasUpr.jpg
      The shorter extension is a wobble joint extension.

      122. Remove the passenger side downpipe to exhaust manifold lower retaining nut.
      DnPpPassLwr.jpg
      I used the same socket combination as used for the driver side inboard retaining nut.
      SktDpDvrIbd.jpg
       
      Last edited: January 11, 2018
    5. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      The 2002 shop manual states "Remove the nut and washer from the RH motor mount."
      MtrMntP02.jpg

      "Remove the bolt from the LH motor mount."
      MtrMntD02.jpg

      The 2003 shop manual directs to remove the LH engine support insulator bottom nut and the RH engine support insulator top two nuts.
      MtrMntP03.jpg
      Mine our not very accessible & considerably corroded.

      From my experience removing and installing my 2000 Sport 4.0L SOHC V6 engine I dislike all of the above methods. In 3 cases the engine must be raised high enough to clear the vertical studs and in the 4th case the engine must be raised high enough for the block motor mount to clear the side of the frame motor mount. This can result in binding on the transmission input shaft and difficulty "docking" the engine to the transmission during engine installation. I planned to remove the 4 bolts on each side that secure the engine mount to the block which worked well on my Sport.
      MtrMntPBlkF.jpg
      That requires removing the dipstick housing since it is below the block motor mount.
      DpStkBelow.jpg
      Unfortunately, it interferes with the bulge that provides additional strength to the mount & cannot be maneuvered around it because it passes between the exhaust manifold & the head.
      DpStkAbove.jpg

      Access to the motor mount lower nut/washer on each side is restricted by the cross tube.
      MtrMntD03.jpg

      123. Install jack stands under the cross tube.
      CrsTubJacks.jpg

      124. Using a 15 mm socket remove the cross tube mounting bolt at the driver & passenger sides.
      CrsTubBltD.jpg

      125. Using a 18 mm medium depth socket remove the motor mount lower nut/washer on each side.
       
      Last edited: January 12, 2018
    6. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      126. Disconnect the transmission wiring harness connector C175b (red arrow below) and C110 (yellow arrow below) in the engine compartment and separate the transmission wiring harness from the firewall and set it out of the way.
      PCMCnx2.jpg

      The metal fuel tube and the metal fuel vapor tube block access to the driver side top transmission bolt.
      TubePlate1.jpg
      A 10 mm nut secures a plate that holds the two metal tubes to their support bracket.
      TubePlate.jpg

      127. Working from above the engine loosen the nut with a combination wrench between the nut and the firewall. Then push the tubes toward the passenger side providing improved access to the top transmission bolt.

      The top transmission to engine bolt on the driver side is accessible to touch from above but I was unable to install a socket & drive due to the reduced clearance between the bolt head and the firewall. I was able to install a 13 mm flare wrench on the bolt head but the wrench position angle provided insufficient leverage. I could have installed a 12 point combination wrench but was afraid of rounding the bolt head corners.

      128. Remove the transmission shift cable support bracket bolts.

      129. Disconnect the transmission shift cable from the manual control lever.

      The driver side top transmission to engine bolt (red arrow below) should now be visible when viewed from below the vehicle on the driver side just aft of the rear transmission mount.
      TBltD1a.jpg
      The bolt could be accessed with a 13 mm shallow socket with one or two 1 inch long wobble extensions and then a long length of extensions. However, there's something (yellow arrow above) that protrudes downward thru the transmission tunnel and blocks the extensions. I tried using the shallow socket with a universal joint and shorter length of extensions working just forward of the transmission rear support cross member but the socket "walked off" the bolt head before the bolt loosened.

      130. Using a shallow 13 mm socket, two 1 inch wobble extensions, and two 6 or 8 inch wobble extensions plus straight extensions loosen the driver side top transmission to engine bolt. There is not enough room to actually remove the bolt. I used the combination shown below.
      ExtendD.jpg
      The length from the rear of the socket to the socket drive is 33 inches. I taped the longer wobble extensions with electrical tape to keep them from separating while positioning the extensions. I used 3/8 inch extensions because of the restricted access. I tied a cord loosely around the first 1 inch wobble joint and attached the other end to the A/C manifold at the firewall to hold the socket in position.
       
      Last edited: January 21, 2018
    7. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      Removing the fender well plastic provides accessibility to the above center bolt. The fender well plastic is secured with small Phillips head screws.
      FW1.jpg
      It is not necessary to remove the front panel in order to remove the rear panel.

      Plastic push pins also secure the fender well plastic.
      FW2.jpg

      One of the small Phillips head screws is difficult to access.
      FW3.jpg
      However, by carefully prying between the outer color trim & the inner sheet metal it is possible to insert a small Phillips screw driver into the head of the screw.

      Access to the O2 sensor & above center transmission to engine bolt is improved when the panel is removed.
      FW4.jpg

      The above center transmission to engine bolt is visible.
      TBltD2a.jpg

      After detaching the transmission shift cable support bracket the bolt can be removed.
      TBltD2b.jpg
       
      Last edited: January 21, 2018
    8. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I slid under the passenger side hoping access to the top transmission bolt would be easier than the driver side. I wasn't even able to see the bolt. Continuing in my goal to remove the engine without disconnecting any A/C lines I decided to remove the EGR pipe hoping that would give me access to the passenger side top transmission bolt by reaching down between the firewall and the rear of the engine.

      My attempt to remove the EGR pipe to EGR valve fitting (red arrow below) failed even though it had soaked with PB Blaster for 24 hours. Because of the diameter of the diaphragm enclosure I could only get a thin 27 mm open end wrench on the fitting and I was afraid it would round the corners.
      EGR1.jpg
      So I disconnected the EGR valve vacuum hose and removed the two bolts (yellow arrows) that attach the EGR valve to the intake manifold.

      Next I removed the two bolts that attach the differential pressure feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor bracket to the intake manifold and disconnected the DPFE sensor electrical connector.
      DPFESens.jpg

      There wasn't enough room to install a large 27 mm wrench on the EGR pipe to exhaust manifold fitting.
      EGR2.jpg

      I removed the passenger side rear fender well plastic panel in the same manner as the driver side.
      FWP1.jpg
      Then I disconnected the auxiliary heater upper hose to gain access to the EGR pipe fitting.
      EGR3.jpg
      Then I tightened my 15 inch adjustable open end wrench to be tight on the fitting and then tapped the wrench handle with my 4 lb hand sledge until the EGR pipe fitting loosened. I used my 27 mm short open end wrench to disconnect the EGR pipe fitting and then was able to maneuver the entire assembly upward between the firewall and the engine until out.

      I can now see the top transmission bolt but don't yet know how to access it.
       
      Last edited: January 24, 2018
    9. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I continued removing parts from the top of the engine in hopes of accessing the top transmission to engine bolt from above.

      After removing throttle body and adapter assembly:
      ThrtlBdyRmd.jpg

      After removing fuel rails with injectors:
      FuelRalRmd.jpg

      After removing alternator:
      AltRmd.jpg

      After removing COPs and intake manifold:
      IntkMnfldRmd.jpg

      After removing heater return hose and disconnecting knock sensor connector:
      HtrRtnRmd.jpg

      After removing ground strap, separating pre-cat O2 sensor connectors from their mounts, removing wiring harness and PCV valve heater hose.
      TBltP1a.jpg
      I tried installing a 13 mm flare wrench and tapping the wrench handle with my 4 lb hand sledge but the bolt didn't budge and I was afraid if I tapped harder I'd break the wrench. Next I'll try a 6 point socket with some kind of 3/8 inch drive.
       
      Last edited: January 29, 2018
    10. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Year, Model & Trim Level:
      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      I tried using a 13 mm 6 point socket and various drives to loosen the top passenger side transmission to engine bolt but couldn't keep the socket from "walking" off the bolt head so I used a 1/2 inch box wrench and my 4 lb hand sledge to break the bolt loose.
      BoxWrnch.jpg
      I found that the 1/2 inch was a tighter fit than the 13 mm and stayed on tight. I don't like using 12 point tools but it was stronger than my 6 point flare wrench.

      The lower two bolts on the driver side were accessible from under the vehicle with my 1/2 inch drive torque wrench using only a 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch drive adapter.
      TBltD3n4.jpg
      I removed the 3rd bolt (red arrow) and slightly loosened the bottom bolt (yellow arrow). The bottom bolts on each side will keep the transmission attached to the engine until the vehicle height is adjusted and the crane and transmission jack are installed.

      Access to the two lower bolts on the passenger side is limited.
      TBltP2n3.jpg

      Removing the ATF cooler tubes and the O2 sensor improved the access to the bolts.
      TBltP2n3b.jpg

      I used the 1/2 inch breaker bar to break loose the above center bolt and the 1/4 inch ratchet to loosen the bolt.
      SktDpPas2n3.jpg
      I used the flex head ratchet to loosen the lower bolt.
       
      Last edited: February 1, 2018
    11. 2000StreetRod

      2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      00 Sport FI, 03 Ltd V8
      The chains and brackets that came with the hoist leveler worked out well. Initially I used some on-hand bolts to mount the lift brackets.
      BrktsP.jpg
      The 60 mm long bolt (forward) bottomed out in the block and was too long to clear the exhaust manifold casting for the EGR pipe. The 25 mm long bolt (aft) was short reducing the number of threads engaged with block.

      At Lowe's in the Hillman specialty hardware drawers I found M12-1.75 x 35 mm cap head screws for $1.78 each.
      BrktnChan.jpg
      A packet of five 12 mm washers cost $.86. I cut a section of 3/4 inch copper pipe insulation and pulled it over the chain to protect the valve covers.

      The 35 mm screws and washers worked fine on both sides.
      BrktsD.jpg

      The leveler is narrower than the block and the chains were too short to reach so I installed some links. The crank just gets in the way so I'll probably cut it off before installing the DOHC V8. I'll use a socket drive on the nut at the other end of the leveling threaded rod. As I anticipated the boom is too short so the lift chain is angled aft. That will help in separating the engine from the transmission but make docking the DOHC V8 with the transmission difficult. I'll probably removing the front bumper for the installation.
      Lift1.jpg
      Because of the block mounting locations the leveler has more effect on leveling from side to side instead of front to rear. I'll have to devise some method to retain the front to back angle of the block as it separates from the transmission. Otherwise there will be a lot of force on the transmission input shaft.
       
      Last edited: February 5, 2018

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