Replacing both mechanisms
I just finished replacing both seat motors. I hated spending that kind of money, but now I'm glad I did.
I forgot to take pictures until I was half-way thru putting back together. But I used the step-by-step form "ezdays" (post #55), which were excellent (thank you!). $450 is a lot for the parts. Ford could/should have made these motors/gears replaceable. They are so accessible by simply removing the back trim, but they had to make it hard for us. But there is money to be saved on labor, if you have 4-6 hours. I did the removal/teardown in about 3 hours Saturday, rebuilt/install about 2 hours on Sunday.
Notes:
1. The pictures I have included are meant to simply add some clarifications/recommendations to post #55 instructions. I will try to reference his step numbers, too.
2. Both of my mechanisms failed in the typical way (both motors spin just fine, but no movement. Therefore, I had to do this job completely with both seats down. And that was fine. I also installed completely with the seats down. No need to use a battery and jumper wires. I had the unit on a work-bench, seatback surface down (no fliping).
3. After getting a close look at how these work, I think these gears get over worked because they do not shut off before hiting the positive stop. The plastic gears get loaded hard at the end of travel. If possible, try not to hold the button too long. Easier said than done.
4. I'm not a huge guy, but I did this all myself, including hoisting in and out of the truck. That said, I recommend a helper for 5 minutes in and out. The concern is no so much strength, but the risk of back injury from improper lifting. Here is the empty space after removal. Be sure to use the shop-vac before reinstall. And...GO BLUE!!!
General statement - I have always considered a set of ratchet-wrenches unnecessary until this job. I did the removal without them, then promptly want to Harbor Freight for a set ($22 each set, Metric or SAE). Probably would have save 1 hour during the removal/teardown. At least get a 13mm (ezdays called it 1/2").
Removal of the seat-unit from the truck was straight-forward, with the exception of that front-center bolt (step 2). Since I could not raise either of the seatbacks, it was very hard to see, and very tight. I tilted the 2nd row seats out of the way, and wedged a rachet/socket in there, which marred the leather a little (cleaned up OK). Using a 15mm rachet-wrench would have been a lot easier. Install was easier, since I could raise the seats.
I was determined not to slice that seam in the leather to remove that buger-bolt (step 3 in getting the latch assy out). It's nearly blind, and no room for a socket-ratchet. I succeeded by using a closed-end wrench. Could only turn about 20 degrees, then rock and reset. Took a LONG time, as they do indeed have blue lock-tight. Reinstall went so much faster with the ratchet-wrench. I wish I had a pic of this step, but no way was I going to pull apart again.
For separating the seats, ezdays is right: You can't completely separate, due to the rivets on the outside brackets. But removing some nuts (step 1 of RH seat loose), allows you to pivot the motors away from each other.
I recommend detaching that articulating brackets from the seat-bottoms (where my thumb is), rather than removing the front bracket from the articulating brackets (where my index finger is). This will let you use a ratchet and socket, rather than a box-wrench, which take forever. These do not have lock-tight, but they are a type of lock-nut that takes force all the way.
In step 2 of getting the RH seat loose, exdays needed to raise the seat(s) to get at one of those 2 nuts. I could not raise the seat. But you can get that buried nut from underneath by using a long extention, then a universal-joint, then a short 13mm socket. This will get you around the seatbelt-anchors.
On reinstall, I was able to simply use my handy 13mm ratchet-wrench (again, a wise purchase!). See below picture for that.
Final recommendation, ezdays recommended (steps 7 and 9 of securing the assy) being sure that the 2 mounting holes were aligned before tightening those 2 nuts. I was glad I read this before trying to lift the seat-unit back into place, as mine were a little bit off. I loosened those 2 nuts, then inserted 2 deepwell sockets (as large as would fit), to get things aligned. Then, with the sockets holding things right, tighten down those 2 nuts (again).
