Discussion in 'Offroad Drivelines' started by Trckmagik, March 1, 2004.
Kris should be able to confirm this, but I believe they will bolt up with no problems.
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I will confirm this ASAP. I have the Calipers sitting in the garage but havnt atempted the brake lines yet. I pick up my New Wheels and tires Tomorrow so the Truck will be running with in the Next two weeks
Oh yeah I forgot to let yall know yes the my Brake lines mounted to the 44 Caliper. I am using Procomp SS Lines. And the Longer the Better as the mounting location is different and could use a Little Extra Length if any thing.
Ok, goter' done. Plenty of pic, will post them soon. Man, huge difference just looking at the finished product, and all the new shiny parts look so pretty.
Took my time and got it done Thurs. and Friday, about 8 hrs. each. With many interruptions and my son's talent show finished up at 11pm last night and took her for a test drive. The steering wheel wasn't straight but it drove nice, tight and quick to respond.
** Having trouble locating (called around town K&S...) 4.5" to 5.5" wheel adapters for the rear axle to run similar wheels on the back. Anyone know where to get them?
To anyone thinking of doing this, if you can install new ball joints in your truck-you can do this D35 to D44 knuckle swap.
Well, got the front end aligned and rides nice, we used Moog Camber nuts 1.5 deg. I put about 50 miles on this afternoon and the ride is nice, especially in the turns-it feels much more stableand looks cool-if you know what you're looking for.
Found some adapters 1.3" thk with nuts for $114, suck$ but necessary. Maybe I'll check into getting some axles made with the 5.5" bolt circle to get the wheel back under the body.
I think I can say I've got one of the coolest eXe's in Buffalo, is there a way to see what members are local to you? OK, G'Day mates.
Dutchman Axle shaft run right at $500 I feel this is a better way.
Oh absolutely, but $100 for spacers has to be the way to go for now. I don't have an extra $500 for new axles.
Are there any Ford stock 31 spline 5x5.5" that I can just swap mine out with that are the right length?
^^The fullsize 8.8 (some F150 and Bronco had the) They are fullwidth though.
BufX How dose the brake pedal feel?
I knew the larger brakes would take more fluid and the pedal is soft as expected. The first 25% is soft then it catches up quick, a quick tap and then apply is a huge difference.
I was driving with my 17 yr old son Shawn and was approaching a Stop sign. I wanted to test the brakes for the first time hard, so I coasted close to the Stop sign at 30 mph, he said Dad there's a Stop sign! So I did a quick pump and stood on the pedal and I swear the back tires came off the ground! We just laughed our butts off.
I would like to put the proper master cylinder in to maximize the braking, which one is recommended? I have 97 Explorer rear disc brakes with a 95 disc/disc master cylinder now.
Thanks for your support!
just curious, could you post a quick summary of what you ended up with as a workable solution? sounds pretty involved, but I didn't read every page...
I saw one post on usasble knuckles that seemed odd: only 86 and up? I've used '80 parts with no problems... the only ones to avoid are the crap that came on some 87-88 trucks. it looks like giant ranger parts, with the same stubby spindle and external (hat) lockouts. Otherwise 80-96 works fine. 2 different spindles (5 or 6 bolt) and 2 different callipers (double slide, or slide and bolt) but as long as you use a complete set there's no issues. Pretty much everything on this topic on TRS is bunk, as with the magazine articles...
I would think a full size truck master cylinder, such as a F-150 with front and rear discs would work perfect and bolt up.
I found a master cylinder, should I get the booster too, or just use mine?
Your should be fine
guys , if you would have asked at trs or the rrorc for who has actually done this from the beginning, i know i could have saved you 6 pages... unless you did and we somehow missed the question. was the tech issue on the trs page resolved, i will go see now.
i only read thru to the 3rd page since it was so old, then skipped to here and seen it still seems relevent and read this page, looks like you figured out it only take about 45 minutes worth of reamin with a fresh reamer...
i dont know if this was hashed out in the pages skipped.
you can run a different master other then what we got, there are 1 inch bore sploder units, but the standard f150 iirc is a 1 1/16, and the standard sploder is 15/16, i had thought it was someone from here that bought my old axle. must not have been. i didnt have problems with the stock sploder unit i ran, but i dont have rear disk brakes.
i bought a 1 in unit that has yet to be installed, its a wagner # MC122576, ordered it online for cheap a year or two ago its dusty. i still have not converted my current axle, and will run it when i do. is anyone running this master or are you just getting and fitting 150 units?
When I did my 88 Ranger a few years ago (93 axles) I left the stock master, worked fine.
My Exploder (92) with 96 exploder rear discs and F150 front brakes is awesome. Pedal is a bit high for some, but I really like it. a slightly smaller master would give a little more modulation, but I would bet a 1-1/16 would be like an on/off switch. rear drums would be a bit more forgiving.
Well, I haven't swapped the master cylinder and the brakes work just fine, the difference is minimal and I will probably keep it this way for now. Too many other things to do, like rock sliders and a rear bumper.
where can i find i beams for a 93 ford ranger 4x4
hi im new. Ive got a 94 ford ranger its got the dana 35 ttb im having trouble getting the front diff out could really use some advice on how to get it done im just a backyard mechanic
Check this thread for info: C-clip Eliminator, Made Easy
Post #5 has the info you are after.