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Explorer Audio upgrade(s)

Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2019 Explorer Sport Tuning' started by deewan, March 10, 2012.

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    1. champco

      champco Active Member

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      Take a ohm meter to the OEM speakers and the replacement speakers thru them as installed.
      The front door panals came off much easier then the rear. There is one metal clip and 6 plastic clips. being as the speaker is in the door and the tweeter in the panel putting it all back together takes some planning. The last connection for me was the network feed to the supply/source. You can see the wiring in a picture. While the door was pseudo connected to the door handle cable and other wiring connectors back in place I propped the panel on my stool and leaned in to make the final speaker connection. Then rehung the panel. It pushed back together real easy. Test it all before resealing all the clips. I would not worry too much about matching speaker impedance within a few ohms. Putting power to perfectly matched stuff still cooks things. The big problems happen to power amps that run away because the resistance (ohms) being low and someone gives it 100% for too long. How long that is depends on the power applied. It's work for you so after installing these you won't blow em.
       
      Last edited: November 26, 2016
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    3. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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      I pulled off a lot of door panels in the past but I never saw anything like this before. The plastic rivets at the corner of each front door simply will not pull loose. Every tool I use seems to just slip off. If I pull any harder I will probably have to buy a new panel. I am done for now. I'll try a hacksaw blade tomorrow.
       
    4. champco

      champco Active Member

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      I did not want to say anything because i do not know you or your abilities/experience. BUT I did my back doors first because I could still use the vehicle with them shut.
      No saws!!! I used a typical snap-on clip puller to POP the clips. It's tough but they will pop. Just get under them..
      I started with the bottom and worked up both sides going back and forth. The steel clip is top front. All these clips are deep into the panel. Not on the edges.Assuming the 2016 was not changed much from my 2013. To protect the paint as I pried the clips I put a stainless steel flat blade against the paint beneath the pry tool. Getting the panel off not breaking anything is the goal.
       
    5. champco

      champco Active Member

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      I don't think I just pulled any of mine apart by pulling on the panel. I attacked each clip. I prodded them with the thin blade and once found got the tool under them. Screwdriver is inadequate. Get the panel pullers from any auto parts store or maybe Norther Hydraulics. My tool is stout but way too short for this panel. I had to really push it to get under the clips. Some clips stayed in the door. I put them back in the panel to reinstall em. After removing them from their holes.
       
    6. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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      I didn't just pull, I used trim removal tools. I have the one metal one that I used for years but I got a new set of plastic (or whatever that material is) from Harbor Freight so I don't scratch anything. I guess I am being overly cautious since this car is still under warranty but I think I know what to do now. The plastic clips are sitting in a slot instead of a hole as they usually are so I should be able to get a tool under it and whack it then pull. At any rate I ordered a bunch of them in case I break a few.
       
    7. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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      Okay, I got the panel off on the passenger side. I had to use the metal tool and it mangled one of the clips and did leave some scratches and but they were behind the panel. When I removed the panel I saw 2 wires going to the tweeter and 2 to the woofer. They were both wrapped up pretty tight into the wiring harness that went inside the door. I could not find my DVM I just had a analog multi-meter which can only measure ohms in 1k increments.

      So I figured I would back off until I find or buy a digital voltmeter, but I have a question: Did you just use the woofer input to feed the crossover and ignore the old tweeter wires?

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]

      The first photo shows the tweeter. I pulled off an orange sticky that covered the part number and the label came off with the sticky. Just looking at the tweeter I am assuming it has a built in high-pass filter since that only requires a resistor and a capacitor. But the wires going into the tweeter are not the same colors as the wires going into the woofer.
       
      Last edited: November 27, 2016
    8. champco

      champco Active Member

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      That being a Sony system I would expect different wiring. The 9 speaker system has 5 channels coming from it. 1 to center speaker, one to each door. There is someone here who posted wiring for the Sony system. Refer to it for the tweeter wires. The tweeter being filtered right there tells me signal must be full to it.
      What do you have for a filter on the new speakers?? Notice on mine from the pictures is pretty robust. Lets find the wiring for your radio. See what you have and decide what to do with the new stuff.
      Went digging. Post #236 has some diagrams that may be helpful. Not sure. Post #296 address the Sony system. Tweeter source still alludes. Are you certain the wires are different then the door speakers?? Ohm out the wires to tweeter. Then either disconnect or connect the door speakers and look for a change.
       
      Last edited: November 27, 2016
    9. champco

      champco Active Member

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    10. champco

      champco Active Member

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    11. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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      Thanks for finding that diagram but I do not think it quite matches up. My right front tweeter has violet/orange-yellow/orange wires (even though it doesn't show very well in this picture). But the most interesting thing about the diagram is that all speakers appear to be originating directly from the audio module. My new speakers consist of a woofer, a tweeter and a crossover expecting a single 2 wire input. I did not think to photograph the woofer wires although they are blurry in the background. I will ask the Crutchfield guys in the morning if it is better to use the woofer wires or the tweeter wires for the crossover input.

      [​IMG]
       
    12. champco

      champco Active Member

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      Yes I agree, on all of it. The original tweeter having the crossover built in may say the signal to them is full. Would be nice to know the power there. I might be tempted to change the door speakers and call it good. That tweeter channel should remain loaded. Using your new one with crossover and new the door speaker would probably work good.
      There is one guy on here who completely redid his Explorer Sony System. Would be worth a study.
       
    13. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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      I managed to get a wiring diagram for the 2016 Explorer Sony system, I included it here. I also called Crutchfield. They said connect the crossover to the woofer output so I guess that is how I will proceed.
       

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    14. champco

      champco Active Member

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      Wo
      Wow. You just posted Radio wiring for all the Explorer,s Yours is starting on page 6 unless you have the Platinum version.
      The OEM tweeter does have it's own amp channel which should keep a load on it. If it were me I would just stow that oEM tweeter inside the door panel unless you can come up with some creative way to make it more useful. Good job.
       
    15. DMG632

      DMG632 Elite Explorer

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      I redid my entire system (except the head unit) in my 2016 Sport.
      http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/2016-sport-audio-up-grade-plus-some.444695/

      I did not use the factory speaker wires. When hooking up the Bit One processer, I got all the radio out-puts (processer in-put) right after the factory amp and ran new wires to the new speakers. I did not use any cross-overs since the Bit One handles that.
       
    16. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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      ...and I just ran into another really stupid roadblock. I took the speakers out of their boxes only to discover there are absolutely NO wires included! I called Crutchfield and they said that is how they come but I have never seen that before. Now I have to sit here with the wire and connectors I just purchased to make wires for the tweeters to connect to the crossover, the woofers to connect to the crossover, the crossover to connect to the harness, and for the rear speaker wires to connect to whatever is back there.
       
    17. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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    18. champco

      champco Active Member

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      How is all that working out for you. Is there anything you would do different??
       
    19. champco

      champco Active Member

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      What brand was that?? What is the crossover like?? How do the wires connect? Crutchfield is pretty good about being all inclusive. Surprised they did not offer needed wiring with your purchase.
       
      Last edited: November 28, 2016
    20. wharriso

      wharriso Elite Explorer

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      [​IMG]
      http://www.crutchfield.com/p_108P65...html?search=Infinity_Primus_PR6500cs&skipvs=T

      They did include the harness which plugs into the connector that gets unplugged from the woofer. The wires that are missing are the ones you expect to be included in the speaker box. I can't blame Crutchfield for that if they are not included in the box, I chose the speakers. Besides, the 22-gauge stuff I got from Radio Shack looks a bit thicker than what is usually included. I hope its thick enough though.
       
    21. DMG632

      DMG632 Elite Explorer

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      As far as the equipment goes I would not change a thing! When my kids (19 years old) change the music to rap or gangster rap (not sure if that's even music) you can feel the bass, windows shake and people outside the car can hear it. When I play my music it's like having the band playing on the entire dashboard.

      About the only thing that I will be changing is the mounting of the remote, it's kind of plain. I want to add some LED's for a little more visual impact.

      With the Audison remote I have 4 entirely different settings for what is being played, each setting has a different cross-over point, different time alignment and more or less power going to each set of speakers.
      setting 1: Flat (works best with the radio source like Howard S.)
      setting 2: Heavy Bass (for the kids)
      setting 3: (used for judging)
      setting 4: My favorite (listening to Rock with a lot of kicks)


      I've been into car audio for over 35 years and this system is the most detailed system I have ever had. Several IASCA judges have listened to it and have it very high marks, one of them even set-up one of the tunes for me.

      Controler 2.JPG
       
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    22. Rich2017

      Rich2017 New Member

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      Rich here, 2017 ford XLT 7speaker system. Getting ready to use PSIX DSP Helix amp for mids and highs, JL Audio mids/highs components, 10"JL Audio DVCsub, with JLAudio 800w amp. Fiber glassing sub in same location as factory 8. Doing install at Car Tunes in Clearwater Florida. Wont start install for about 2 weeks. If you want more info about this, contact Mike at Car Tunes. My current Titan has 2 RF p1000.2 pushing 2 RF 12s, shallowmount and 2 RF shallow 10s, with 600w 6channel JL Audio on 3 sets of JBL components. Sound deadening through out. 3000w Stinger Battery, 270Amp Alternator. Pioneer 8"DVD.
       
    23. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the Forum Rich.:wave:
      Using the Forum's 'Search' feature (upper right) I found this thread and moved your post here as it did not apply to the other thread topic. The 'Search' feature is a very useful program to find threads/post on topics already discussed.

      Peter
       
    24. darkunderlord

      darkunderlord New Member

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      Hey all,

      I just got my 2017 Ford Explorer XLT and loving it so far. It has the nine speaker system, no nav, etc. I believe it's the 202A package.

      I want to add my amp and subs to the stereo. I believe I'll have to tap into the speaker wires, as I have done before, but that usually ends up being an imperfect solution. Anyone have good pointers on where to tap into it, etc? My package being a 9 speaker, doesn't have the sub already in it etc. I've googled around and the sync 3 and 2017 are new enough I can't find alot of detailed info on doing this.

      Thanks!

      Travis
       
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    25. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the Forum Travis.:wave:
      Your thread was merged with this one. There are a few others on upgrades that you can find using the Forum's handy 'Search' feature in the upper right. Search in the 'Modified' thread. Here is another you may be interested in; http://www.explorerforum.com/xenfor...016-explorer-sport-audio-system-build.458500/
      Good luck.

      Peter
       
    26. Jerry Horton

      Jerry Horton New Member

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      I read all the pages, wow that is a lot of information over the time this thread went on.... I am not sure if it just did not just give me more questions.... But there is some good sound guys on this site for sure!!!

      I will get better at using search to help me in my 2014 explorer sport stereo upgrade....
       
      Last edited: June 22, 2017

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