Front Quick Strut Install

[rrack]

The front alignment must be slightly off and the front end is fighting. That would explain the truck "wagging".

 

[cross6]

Funny you mentioned that. Yes, they were still there. One had green paint while the other had pink paint. They were a pain to get the claws back in place. I guess for now, I'll search for new upper arms and balance the tires. Thanks for the info.

Any chance you mixed them up? You also might want to double check them, they have a habit of moving out of place as you tighten the nut and then the teeth get crushed. Then the arm will shift under load even though the nut seems tight.

I chased that problem on mine for a long time after Ford replaced my upper arms under warranty. Their tech crushed the teeth on all four and I would get the sensation of the front end floating sometimes especially when turning. Finally when the upper arms needed replacing again I did them myself because it was long out of warranty and I discovered the bolts were worked loose and the alignment shims were all crushed.

They sell alignment kits that replace the factory washers. If you need adjustment it's the only way. Moog sells a cheaper "kit" which is really just giant round washers. But it's really hard to maintain alignment with those as you torque.

To keep from crushed the alignment shims as you tighten the nut a good trick is to superglue them into place to keep them from moving.

 

[rrack]

Pretty sure thy were seated correctly and put em back the way they were. I'm assuming the colors are different adjustment rates... Is there a standard for which color goes where... If I remember, pink was in front and green on the back bracket. It really isn't that noticeable but I know how it used to run. Just the slightest side to side motion on the highway when she should be rolling straight. Maybe the tighter shocks/springs has just enhanced an already out of aligned front end. It's the wife's daily driver and I don't drive it had often. I'm sure there have been injured curbs. As far as I know with 130K miles it has only been aligned once when under warranty at about 90K when one of the upper arms was replaced due to a torn boot. Probably time to get it checked anyway. Gonna get everything balanced tomorrow and double check those busing plates.

Also searching on eBay for some upper arms. Found a few sets for under $100. Just don't know about the quality. These may be fine but without the boots they're destined to fail sooner with all that grit getting in there.

 

[cross6]

Pretty sure thy were seated correctly and put em back the way they were. I'm assuming the colors are different adjustment rates... Is there a standard for which color goes where... If I remember, pink was in front and green on the back bracket. It really isn't that noticeable but I know how it used to run. Just the slightest side to side motion on the highway when she should be rolling straight. Maybe the tighter shocks/springs has just enhanced an already out of aligned front end. It's the wife's daily driver and I don't drive it had often. I'm sure there have been injured curbs. As far as I know with 130K miles it has only been aligned once when under warranty at about 90K when one of the upper arms was replaced due to a torn boot. Probably time to get it checked anyway. Gonna get everything balanced tomorrow and double check those busing plates.

Also searching on eBay for some upper arms. Found a few sets for under $100. Just don't know about the quality. These may be fine but without the boots they're destined to fail sooner with all that grit getting in there.

Yeah paint is some code for how much adjustment like you said. I don't know of a standard pairing or anything.

If the new coils make the truck ride at a different height that might warrant new adjusters.

If you go cheap ebay stuff I've had really good luck with True Blue brand auto parts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Auto-...ts=Model:Explorer&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a7a80641b

But I looked on Rockauto and you can also get Moog or Dorman arms for about $100 a pair, too. But look out they hit you hard on shipping.

 

[rrack]

Thanks so much. I didn't see those listed. I think I'll go ahead and order a pair then search for an alignment.

 

[rrack]

Well, a little closer... Took it in for balancing and discovered both fronts have odd uneven wear on the inside edges. That would explain the rocking. Front end is fighting. Now just gotta figure out what's worn out... Tie rod ends along with upper arms? Guess I should get it off the ground and rattle some more. Wouldn't mere misalignment have uniform wear all the way around on inside or outside edges? This was definitely patchy high and low spots. They said they thought it was separation at first but apparently wasn't. I had even noticed the wear before.

 

[cross6]

Well, a little closer... Took it in for balancing and discovered both fronts have odd uneven wear on the inside edges. That would explain the rocking. Front end is fighting. Now just gotta figure out what's worn out... Tie rod ends along with upper arms? Guess I should get it off the ground and rattle some more. Wouldn't mere misalignment have uniform wear all the way around on inside or outside edges? This was definitely patchy high and low spots. They said they thought it was separation at first but apparently wasn't. I had even noticed the wear before.

If the upper arms are off or are sliding around under load they will definitely do this. I had weird inner wear on mine because of it.

 

[sfbayjay]

Is it just me or are the pics from the OP missing from this thread?

 

[eddiev8NZ]

Yep, if any ones still reading this thread I did the fronts over the weekend with quick struts. Old ones come out a breeze, but could not get the new one in. As mentioned, the base doesn't have the cutaway section the old ones had, so it was mashed against the CV boot with still about half an inch to go short of clearing the UCA. Wish I'd read this first, I was panicking as I thought they had sent me the wrong part. Eventually I separated the upper ball joint, and it slipped in easily.
Much less bouncy now, will probably do the rears next with the quick struts as well.
Just thought I would add my experience in case it helps someone not spend 2 hours trying to get the new "direct replacement" struts to slide right in.

 

[ROBinGa]

Go search for the videos from 1AAuto on these struts for the 2003 explorer and it will help you tremendously

 

[eddiev8NZ]

Go search for the videos from 1AAuto on these struts for the 2003 explorer and it will help you tremendously

Hi thanks, thats what I did, was very helpful, except their strut just slid in easily without having to separate the UCA, hence me initially thinking the part was incorrect. Thats why I thought I would post in case someone else watched that video and worried as I did, thanks.

 

[eddiev8NZ]

While I am here, I am about to do the rear ones, ordered them today. According to the 1AAuto video you have to disconnect the rear sway bar links, and he mentions issues with getting them off. Something about having to break the plastic covering. If this is the case can the link still be used, is that plastic functional part of it? Just want to cover the bases before I start the job. Many thanks for the help

 

[ROBinGa]

My 2003 sway bar end links were just like they showed in video. The factory design is a plastic tube and the metal rod goes through it. That plastic tube dry rotted and had to break it to remove. I replaced with a set I got on RockAuto which was only the metal rod and nuts and bushings on each end. I think Motorcraft part still has that black plastic tube. I think the plastic tube does act as a spacer versus the other style having rubber bushings. Might consider getting new end links too

I think that FordTechMakuloco also has a rear strut video I watched. Not a bad job at all

 

[Donystoy]

Replaced my rear struts a year ago. The only difficult part was getting to the upper three nuts. I removed the plastic inner fender splash shield and sprayed the nuts with penetrating oil the previous day. I used a ratchet wrench to remove the upper nuts and an air impact gun to remove the lower larger nuts. No issues there at all and did not have to break or replace any link bushings. Mine is an 02 so could be slightly different. I also regularly oil the underside of the vehicle including suspension components which likely helped in the ease of removal.

 

[regis101]

*I also regularly oil the underside of the vehicle including suspension components which likely helped in the ease of removal.* Ah, yes. Then drive down a dusty road. Repeat as necessary.
Worlds best undercoating.

I'm curious to know if anyone noticed that some of the famous ford front end shimmy lessened with strut/shock R&R?

 

[eddiev8NZ]

Hi guys thanks for the reply. RobinGa, I think I am reading that if I break the plastic parts on the links I will need entire new links? They are cheap enough to buy but with a 6 week wait to ship to New Zealand I don't want to be without a car for 6 weeks. So I might be better to put the job off and order them in anticipation of everything going wrong
Donystoy, do you think it help preserve the links with penetrating oil? I normally do that, having a lot of luck with Kroil, hasn't failed me yet, maybe I should start adding a drip a day for the next 6 weeks....

Thanks again guys

 

[Donystoy]

The only links I had issues with were the front ones. The originals I had to cut off with an angle grinder as the bolt had fused onto the inside of the plastic tube from corrosion. Impossible to get any oil in there. When I install new links I coat the bolt with a layer of grease to slow down any future corrosion.

 

[ROBinGa]

Yes I would not destroy the factory ones that have plastic tube without replacements in hand. Wow had no idea it takes 6 weeks to ship. Does it truly take that long to get something sent to New Zealand? Kinda cool to me to find people from half way around the world can help each other on here.

 

[eddiev8NZ]

Hi again, Donystoy thanks I didn't have to remove my front links when doing the struts, so with a bit of penetrating oil over the next week hopefully the rears will come off ok like yours. Good idea to coat with grease, although I probably won't ever have to do it again. We don't have the salt road issues that some have in the states so I have a fairly rust free underside, compared to some of the videos I see on youtube, like the FordTechMakuloco ones!
Rob, yeah I tend to overthink these things, but I like being prepared when I can. The front struts took 4 working days (plus 2 over the weekend) to be delivered via Amazon Export Sales. The rears I have ordered are estimated at 3 weeks, same supplier, different carrier, who knows why the difference in timing. The throttle position sensor took 6 weeks, but I think that was via China.
Amazon and ebay seems to have everything, but the price is basically doubled to have it shipped here. And thats still cheaper than getting via the local Ford dealership.
I have found some unbranded links on ebay australia with a 2-4 day delivery time so thats not too bad. Not cheap tho!
And yes its great to have a forum like this to share and help, this is not a common car here in NZ so I'd be lost if it wasn't for you guys! (and youtube of course )

Thanks again

 

[Sensei Wu]

Hi, nice write up but can't see the pics. I know this is a old post but I was wondering if you get this message and happen to have those, would you be willing to send em to me?
I'm really hoping to avoid taking loose anything I don't have to lol. Thanks!

yesterday I installed two new Monroe Quick Strut on my Ex and here is the pics. I hope this helps anyone who attempts this and it was anything but "quick"

yeah here it is

and thats what it looks like

heres the old one

Remove this bottom bolt from this side, here ford did something to help me, the nut on the other side has a tab attached to it that locks it to the frame as you loosen or tighten in, thank you ford

Remove the 3 nuts from the top

and its out, came right out a little lean and twist like a puzzle and it slid right out

Look Mom NO STRUT

Insert strut like so

Heres where the fun begins, it doesnt go in like it came out, the quick strut base is a little thicker than the factory and it doesnt clear the top. I placed another jack to raise the arm to a point that allowed the strut to clear, than shoved it back. once in place it was now longer than would line up with bottom hole. I put a spring compressor on it in place and was able to line up the bottom which needed a jack at the bottom of the strut to convince it in to place as the new rubber bushing made it difficult

and its in.

Roob