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grinding sound from left rear wheel

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by LMHmedchem, January 28, 2018.

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    1. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      I have had a grinding sound for a while coming from the rear end. It is similar to the sound you get when apply the brakes and your pads are worn down, except the sound is constant. It seems like the sound is coming more from the left rear, so I have removed the left rear wheel and the brake pads still have a 1/4 inch or so. There is no scoring on the rotor. Trying to turn the wheel by hand is difficult and I get the grinding sound. I am not sure that the sound is coming from the brakes. The boots on both ends of the axle are intact and I had the oil in the differential replaced a couple of years ago.

      I seem to think I should be able to slide the brake caliper back and forth a bit by hand, but it really won't move much. I am thinking of taking off the caliper and re-greasing the slide pins but I'm not sure that is what the issue is.

      Thanks for any advice,

      LMHmedchem
       
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    3. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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    4. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      How much should I be able to slide the brake caliper by hand? If the problem is the wheel bearing I will have to fix that but it probably wouldn't hurt to re-grease the brakes while I have it apart.

      How much are the parts to replace the wheel bearing? Should I do both side at once?

      I also notice that I don't have any of the spring retainer clips that hold the rotor onto the wheel. Is that a problem?

      Thanks for the help.

      LMHmedchem
       
    5. swshawaii

      swshawaii Explorer Addict

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      Unless your rear brakes are dragging or sticking, you DON'T have a caliper issue.

      Regarding rear bearing parts cost, 29 pages of related threads and parts opinions. Read.
       
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    6. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      It looks like this is the part I need,

      SKF GRW259 ($42)
      http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1836146&cc=1377671

      I believe that SKF is a good brand. I never use economy parts unless there is absolutely no other choice. I use the savings of doing the work myself to pay for better parts when available.

      Would I normally need to do both sides? I tend to do both sides at once since I assume that if one goes, the other is not far behind. I will look around for a video.

      LMHmedchem
       
    7. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      After watching this video,



      can I do this repair without access to a hydraulic press?

      Do you normally take the knuckle somewhere to have the bearing pressed out?

      LMHmedchem
       
    8. IPcamper

      IPcamper Elite Explorer

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      I have used a 12-ton press from Harbor Freight to do the rear bearings in my Explorer. It is barely up to the task. The 20-ton press is recommended as the size you need.
      They currently have one on sale for $149. I view tools as an investment since I will probably use it again. however, you probably can find a shop to do the job for less. There is no need to do both at the same time unless they are both bad. Another way you can do this is to buy a new knuckle/bearing/hub assembly. Moog sells the whole assembly for $299. Seems expensive to me, and I don't know the quality, but probably cheaper to go that route than having it serviced at a dealership. If you do it yourself, look at the studs on the hub, if they are worn or corroded go ahead and get a replacement hub to press in, They are not that expensive.
       
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    9. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      I jacked it up again today and checked it the wheel had any play and it does rock about 1/4" or so, so the bearings definitely need to be changed out. The other rear wheel is still tight, so I'm not sure why one of the wheels went. The wheel bearings are checked when they do auto inspections here, so this has happened in the last 8 months or so.

      There are a few options. The links below are from Amazon, the SKF is a bit cheaper then RockAuto and the Motocraft is the same after the RockAuto shipping.

      SKF Chicago Rawhide GRW259 Rear Wheel Bearing ($50, free ship)
      Motorcraft BRG-4 Cone and Roller Bearing ($86, free ship)

      I often use Motocraft parts but I think SKF is a quality brand and I'm not sure I want to pay $30 more for the OE part here. Since I don't have a press, I would have to take this to my mechanic to have it installed. My mechanic has no problem with me bringing my own parts. I can always get the parts for less then he can using his local delivery service.

      If I was going to do this myself, I would probably have to do the entire knuckle, and those run $300 or so and I'm not sure that makes sense.

      LMHmedchem
       
    10. dkl

      dkl New Member

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      I went with the complete knuckle and bearing assembly from MOOG ($208 + freight). It was easy to replace. At the same time, I installed new parking brakes and a 17mm toe rod. Early 2002 Explorers had 15mm toe rods, you need to check your build date if you go this route. There is an abundance of info on this site pertaining to wheel bearings.
       
      Last edited: January 29, 2018
    11. IPcamper

      IPcamper Elite Explorer

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      Why does one bearing wear out before the other? I have heard, but don't know how true it is, that since the roads are crowned with a slope of 1 to 2% to outside ( right side ) for water drainage, the vehicles put more pressure on the right side ( down slope side ) bearings. Over many years I guess this causes them to wear faster. I would be interested to hear from service folks if they see the right side wheel bearing failing early than the left.
       
    12. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      ...or if they tend to go on the other side for folks in the UK.

      I talked to my mechanic this morning and he says he always uses National bearings.

      At RockAuto,

      NATIONAL 516008 Taper Bearing Assembly ($45 w/ship)

      the national brand is about $5 cheaper than the SKF. Can anyone let me know if this a comparable brand to SKF?

      The RockAuto shopping cart also says that the seal should be replaced along with the bearing. Is this what is usually done? The only brand of seal that they have on the RockAuto site at the moment is Timken and I have never used that brand. Is this a quality seal?

      I tried to find the correct National or SKF seal to match the bearing but didn't have much luck. O'Reilly lists this as the compatible part using their search,

      National Wheel Seal 8835S

      but Amazon says that this part is not compatible with my truck. How do I go about finding the correct SKF or National seal to go with the bearing?

      This page at partssgeek seems to have all of the seals, but there are quite a few categories and I have no idea which one(s) goes with the rear wheel bearing,

      2002 Ford Explorer Driveshaft & Axle Parts - PartsGeek

      I was thinking of getting new parking brake shoes and hardware. Is there anything else I will need other then the bearing and the seal?

      Thanks,

      LMHmedchem
       
      Last edited: January 30, 2018
    13. dkl

      dkl New Member

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      I would replace the spindle nut. I don't recall a separate bearing seal on the OEM knuckles but other folks here are more experienced in this. For the parking brakes, try to get new, not relined. You'll also need a spring and hardware kit and some synthetic brake grease.

      Before giving your knuckle to your mechanic, remove and save the brake slippers and rubber grommet/guide that holds the parking brake lever.

      The Moog knuckle kit comes with a National bearing and a 36-mos warranty (probably longer than the individual bearing). Also comes with the spindle nut and disc brake dust shield. National is a well respected brand.
       
      Last edited: January 30, 2018
    14. IPcamper

      IPcamper Elite Explorer

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    15. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      Thanks, it is great to know that and not order unnecessary parts.

      I am having trouble finding the spring clip, that part that is labeled #12 in the diagram you linked to. At the RockAuto site, they list both a "Wheel Bearing Retainer" and a "Wheel Bearing Snap Ring". I always wish that diagrams like the one you posted were labeled with the OE part numbers. I am not sure which is the one I need. I guess I could try to reuse the old one, but I would rather not do that.

      There are kits that include the snap ring, but these don't seem to break out the individual part numbers.

      This appears to be the correct part, but I'm not sure,

      Timken RET259 Wheel Bearing Retaining Clip ($8)

      LMHmedchem
       
    16. dkl

      dkl New Member

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      Ford sells the hub, bearing and snap ring together, #1W002
       
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    17. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      I don't plan on replacing the hub, just the bearing. I often use Ford parts, but in this case they seem a bit too expensive where quality parts are available for half of what the Motorcraft brand is going for.

      It looks like this may be the Ford part number for the snap ring,
      Ford 5L2Z-1A124-A
      can anyone confirm that?

      LMHmedchem
       
    18. IPcamper

      IPcamper Elite Explorer

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      I believe that is the correct Ford part number. Rockauto lists it as a wheel bearing retainer and it sells for $3 to $5 depending on the make. It is basically a really large snap ring and a pain to get out. I use a small screw driver and wedge it into one of the holes and use a hammer to tap it towards the center, once I get it out a little then use a second screw driver to wedge in behind it and start to work around until I have pried it out of the knuckle. If you take it to a shop to have the bearing pressed, then have them do it. It is supposed to be replaced when the bearing is replaced.
       
    19. IPcamper

      IPcamper Elite Explorer

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      On a side note, if you are having trouble checking a part number for a part, look it up on RockAuto and click on the INFO button for the part, it will bring up a page showing the part and will list the alternate/OEM part #s. it is handy to verify whether or not it is the right part.
       
    20. dkl

      dkl New Member

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      I use the Ford factory manuals, but I did find a separate part number on parts.ford.com.

      Yes, it looks like #1180, crossing over to #1A124. Try these links and enter your own VIN to see the exploded views with the part numbers and Related Rarts. Moog does sell a kit similar to Ford. Includes hub, bearing and retainer, just a thought if it doesn't come apart easily.

      Arm Assy - Rear Suspension | FordUS

      Ring | FordUS
       
      Last edited: January 31, 2018
    21. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      I am getting ready to order but I am still having some issues finding the right part numbers.

      So far I have,

      Replacement wheel bearing,
      NATIONAL 516008 Taper Bearing Assembly ($45 w/ship)

      Replacement parking brake pads,
      WAGNER PAB791 ThermoQuiet ($26)

      Replacement parking brake hardware,
      WAGNER H7240 {#F139874} Combi Kit ($8)

      Replacement wheel bearing retainer ring,
      Wheel bearing retainer ring SKF CIR259 {#5L2Z1A124A} ($4)

      I am still not entirely sure that the retainer ring listed above is the correct part for the snap ring that holds the bearing into the knuckle, though the "replaces" part number in brackets there seems correct. I am also having trouble finding the spindle nut and nut retainer clip. The only part listed at rock auto is specified for the front. I don't have a part number so I don't know how to find it.

      I have tried this site as suggested,

      Ford Parts

      but after enabling java script from a great many third party domains, the site still does not function. Clearly this site is far more interested in collecting information on users who visit the site then they are in much of anything else.

      LMHmedchem
       
    22. dkl

      dkl New Member

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      Electronic cat #1180 crosses over to Ford part number 1A124 (retainer)
      Electronic cat #HN3 crosses over to Ford part number W710084 (nut, adjusting screw)
      Useage; the VIN used to pull this info is from a 2002 Explorer XLT 4wd, build date 06/2001

      Not sure why you are having trouble with parts.ford.com, works fine with latest version of Mozilla without third party cookies enabled, but you should be able to find both parts on RA

      2002_ex_lr_knuckle.jpg
       
      Last edited: February 13, 2018
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    23. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      I have ordered everything but I am still having problems with the spindle nut "Ford W710084". They seem to come in a 4 pack for $30+ including shipping.

      This is one location I have found so far where I can buy a single part,

      Ford ADJUSTING SCREW NUT -W710084-S439 ($10, free ship)

      The amazon parts filter says that this fits my model, but this is one of those cases where they show a diagram of many parts and don't identify the part you are ordering on the diagram. The diagram also doesn't look like the one posted by dkl and the part number has the extra -S439 on the end.

      There are locations on ebay where I could also order,

      FORD OEM Axle Housing-Rear-Axle Nut W710084S439 | eBay

      but they don't show a picture and my 2002 truck does not appear on the list of compatible vehicles.

      I suspect this is the right part but I am still not sure.

      LMHmedchem
       
    24. IPcamper

      IPcamper Elite Explorer

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      This is the correct part. If you want to compare it to other sources, it a 36mm M24 x 2.0 nut I ordered this same part at the end of November from Greenway Ford through Amazon.
       
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    25. LMHmedchem

      LMHmedchem Active Member

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      Thanks a bunch, I hate ordering when I don't know I have the right part. Am I right that there is no retainer ring that goes with this nut?

      LMHmedchem
       
    26. IPcamper

      IPcamper Elite Explorer

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      There is no retainer ring with this nut. It has a thin plastic layer that will lock it in place. Just torque it the proper amount, 208 ft/lbs, I believe, but double check that.
       

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